Before someone really, really nit picks.
A single one off tool-room prototypes of a "lightened No 4 Mk1*" is squawked about.That's still not a No5 Mk1, but an experimental never accepted for production, but one of several version of the lightened No4.
No, you are If you can't show me a legit "rifle No5, Mk1" with an "L" in the serial number.
NOT something labelled "Jungle Carbine" a name which was never used for it.
A No1 MkIII relabeled to "Rifle 7.62mm 2A/2A1" in India with a post war junker rebuild from an American importer (Gibbs & ca) &...
No5s were ONLY made by BSA & Fazakerly, if the serial number goes to any other ROF its fake!
"Who Made My Lee Enfield
First digit of serial number
1-= Maltby
2- = Fazakerly
3-= BSA Shirley
OC1- Savage
OL1- Long Branch
Or:
All factories in the North were prefixed with a "N", those in the...
As you have a 3 bar here's my suggestion.
Cut the strap to length, roughly 1 1/3~1 1/2 of the distance between your sling swivels.
Double back the front for 1", & punch for screw 3/8"in from the end.
(this allows you to access the swivel without removing it.)
Slip the 3-way on before the other...
I have a couple of 1 1/4 3 bar buckles if you need them to set it up. I usually do that then once I'm happy I double back the ends punch the holes & go to the Chicago screws!
I ordered some 1 1/4" poly webbing from
https://www.strapworks.com/shop-by-product-type/webbing/polypropylene/shopby/1_1_4_inch?cat=182
then cut it to length & used "Chicago screws" to make loops for attachment. I punched the strap with a hot soldering iron to punch the holes in the...
I've been using the papier mache egg carton material for wad for years! NOT the expanded plastic.
I punch them out with a punch of the right diameter & drop them into hot (melted in a double boiler) beeswax & Crisco shortening not oil 50:50 fish em out & let em dry.
NO!
The revolver is also good to the same pressures & velocities as a self-loader, no more & no less.
If a round "isn't safe" it isn't safe no mater what its fired in assuming the same caliber.
While we are waiting for E.Shell to reply... I worked for a major rifle manufacturer, and I can tell you this. The number one reason for rifles returned to service with accuracy issues was copper fouling. In the OP's case he did right, once the accuracy falls off it's time to get the copper out...
KNOW rather than guess!
You can buy a bore-scope for peanuts nowadays that runs via a USB from a computer or laptop.
It lets you actually look inside your bore length-ways or to the side with a mirror attachment.
OK cleaners.
I use the M-pro 7 bore cleaner & copper remover. You use them...
"The data in the one book, one caliber books is horribly out of date. I wouldn't use those at all."
Many have been updated.
As for the rest that's fine you do just that.
I will however mention I've been using it absolutely trouble-free for .303 Brit, &.62 NATO, .38 Spl & .357 Mag for some time...