Reloading 101 Working up a load and Pressure Signs

First of most people want to get into reloading because its cheaper, especially now since the price of your favorite cartridges have gone up.
I reload for accuracy, I am that type of shooter and when I reload I am extremely careful when working up a load.
Get reloading manuals, the new updated ones and the reason is its because the new and innovative way that they test their loads. ie transducers that transform pressure signals into analog or digital signals. Much more reliable.
Picking powders If you are getting into reloading just select a few, you don't need too many. They cause confusion when selecting a load and staying with it until your load is developed. It takes patience and time.
Go for the work horses (powder) the tried and true, over the years stuff. Stay away from the latest and the greatest, you gotta have it, one pound o this and it'll run every caliber you got. It aint there. Again trust me.
Powder works like this. As a general rule
Powder X for Casing X because Casing X has capacity X Water volume.

Same Powder X for 120 Bullet Caliber because Casing X has certain volume.

Same Powder X for 120 Bullet Caliber because Casing X has certain volume+
Rifle bore rate of twist = resistance

Same Powder X for 120 Bullet Caliber because Casing X has certain volume+
Rifle bore rate of twist = resistance + How this powder reacts under certain pressure and pressures as you build a load.
All Done For You

You select the components, the bullets, the powder, the cases, the primers, the rifle.



Rifles are like two years olds. No two are alike and some get finicky about what you feed it. Bullets, believe it or not play a more important role in accuracy than powder. Powder is almost as important. Just trust me on this one.
This is worth repeating Get quality, up to date manuals and reference them.
Start from the starting load and work slowly. If you feel comfortably at 1/10 of a grain of powder then do it until you get comfortable.
Most people don't. Some go .5 grain, that's 1/2 grain of powder until they approach halfway past the mid point between the starting load and the maximum load and drop down to either .10 tenths or two tenths, they are looking for accuracy at what their rifle likes. Somewhere in the spectrum between the starting load and the maximum load they should find a point where the shot group tightens and then expands.
Pressure signs.
A healthy amount of shooters think about the bolt first. That is a no-no. If it gets to the point to where the bolt extraction gets stiff after the shot has been fired then you are way past some of the warning signs of over pressure.
Trim to length first and foremost. Make sure you trim to minimum lenght allowed, then you can get away from trimming for awhile.
Examine each and every expended case and look for.
Extractor marks on the edge. Look on the bolt of your firearm. Look at the extractor, if that extractor leaves a mark on the brass that is a sign of excessive pressure. The brass is in effect slamming back too hard but not hard enough to make the bolt stick shut causing you to force it open.
Firing Pin marks. Most people who are knowledge enough to look for pressure signs think that this is the first place to look. I won't argue too much if it is great, solid, never shot before brass. Brass gets thinner and there is a pressure ring that you should check (that is a later post).
Firing pin marks leave a raised, sharp lip around the area where the firing pin struck the primer. Normal firing pin marks that have not exceeded pressure do not.

Causes for Excessive pressure.
Not Trimming Brass
Not resizing Brass
Not using appropriate bullet weights
Using wrong bullet type (same caliber but wrong type) more resistance.
Not working up loads, assuming what's good for one is good for another. WRONG! DEAD WRONG!
There are many reasons for excessive pressure but the biggest safety valve is you. The tools are information and the tool is you in checking for pressure while you work up a load. Good luck and good shooting.
Never take the internet information for load data information, use it for a guide only. Get published manuals Use them. Use trusted resources.

You are the best safety valve for pressure. Good luck

Reloading 101 isn't meant to offend any of the seasoned roll yer owner's.
It's meant to get the one's who have quite never made the jump into the water, I mean hobby.
For instance you have a 7mm Remington Mag and you want to practice with that same rifle alot or shoot moose. It doesn't take alot to kill a moose. People seem to think so.
IMR 4064 powder and I am not going to give you the reduced load of powder,175 Grain hornady 184 diameter bullet . This load is very accurate and shoots the equivilant of the venerable 30-30. Added benefit is the barrel will last a lifetime. Taken out of the Ken Waters Pet Loads. Knowledge is power. Get the book.
You just don't chase a load you get into some of the minds of these people who understood shooting and understood calibers. But if you are hard headed go on and reinvent the wheel again.

Thank you very much for this it helps a lot.

I can feel your passion all the way over here in Frederick. Good post with lots of things to be on the look out for.

An interesting article I came across recently discussed another aspect that you alluded to (improperly resized brass). When I started reloading I was told by 80% of the folks out there that you should neck size your brass to extend it's life...and since nobody wants to buy BOTH a neck sizer and a full length resizer, just put a nickel underneath your full length die when you put it in the press, and then size your brass (only the necks). Well, after reading the article on rifleman's journal and looking at the test results, I can see how foolish this is. Since you're not setting the shoulder back, there is zero headspace clearance. The fired round has nowhere to expand to, and thus doesn't spring back after firing...so you'll end up with sticky bolt lift with minimum powder charges. I tested it after reading the article, and found it to be spot on. So when you're sizing your brass, be sure to bump the shoulder back a couple thousandths to give the brass somewhere to go (and come back from)...

sticky

Interesting... some good info...

And when reloading for something like the .17 Rem.. weigh each charge, you will be glad you did.....

-Rock