DaemonAssassin
Why should we Free BSD?
Does anybody know how to dimple a barrel for the gas block set screws to engage and hold the gas block in place?
Dimpling for gas block
- Thread starter DaemonAssassin
- Start date
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iH8DemLibz
When All Else Fails.
Measure the tap drill size of the hole in the gas block. I like to sacrifice a drill bit of that size and grind a center punch out of it.
Line up the gas block and install one set screw. Put the punch in the other hole/holes and hit it to leave an indentation/witness mark on the barrel.
Without removing the first set screw, install another set screw to secure the gas block. Then remove the first set screw. Insert punch and make another mark on the barrel. Do this until all holes are marked. The idea is to keep the gas block secured in the same location throughout the process.
Remove gas block. Use a center punch to make the marks deeper on the barrel.
Use a center drill to spot the marks. Use a drill bit the size of the set screw to make your final cut/divot.
Drill just deep enough that the end of the set screw enters the divots. A 1/16th of an inch or so.
PS: Blackening the area with a Sharpie will help you to see the punch marks more easily. And are the set screws flat bottom or tapered?
Line up the gas block and install one set screw. Put the punch in the other hole/holes and hit it to leave an indentation/witness mark on the barrel.
Without removing the first set screw, install another set screw to secure the gas block. Then remove the first set screw. Insert punch and make another mark on the barrel. Do this until all holes are marked. The idea is to keep the gas block secured in the same location throughout the process.
Remove gas block. Use a center punch to make the marks deeper on the barrel.
Use a center drill to spot the marks. Use a drill bit the size of the set screw to make your final cut/divot.
Drill just deep enough that the end of the set screw enters the divots. A 1/16th of an inch or so.
PS: Blackening the area with a Sharpie will help you to see the punch marks more easily. And are the set screws flat bottom or tapered?
- Jul 29, 2014
- 50,025
Set your screws, shoot your rifle to where it runs good(assuring yourself your gas block is set to the right position with the proper distance and alignment), pull the most rearward screw out, punch for drilling, and drill the divot. It's kinda wazoo, but that's how I've done it and it's worked for me. There are jigs for this. If you did this as a profession, you'd want to buy one.
Ifdot
Ultimate Member
I have a jig. 
NateIU10
Ultimate Member
Anytime you're in the hood, bring it by. It's on me.
clandestine
AR-15 Savant
IMO you should borescope the barrel to ensure the gas port in the barrel and gas block line up. students in my last build class saw how things look right but are off when looking through the scope.
As Ifdot said, a jig is easier to use and as Outrider said, it can be done carefully without a jig.
As Ifdot said, a jig is easier to use and as Outrider said, it can be done carefully without a jig.
I have a video showing what I did. I used the factory dimple to lock the block so I could mark a 2nd spot to have 2nd dimple. Then use factory block to tighten first then tightened down on mine I made.
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
Brownell's has a jig.
It indexes off the gas port and then you just drill enough to dimple.
It indexes off the gas port and then you just drill enough to dimple.
ken792
Ultimate Member
My barrel was Melonited and the TiNi coated drill bit wouldn't bite, so I had to break through the Melonite with a ball bit on a Dremel. I first installed the gas block and used the screws to mark the surface, and then simply ground away where the screws left marks.
DaemonAssassin
Why should we Free BSD?
Wow Nate! Thank you. I'm going to try to get down there sooner, rather than later. I need another hat. Little DA has taken mine as his own.
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