First time out w Combat Armory upper

slsc98 · Dec 2, 2021

Maki said:
My Yugo Mauser has that problem. The feed ramp has a sharp edge on it and shaves off the brass. Since it mostly sits in the safe, I've never bothered to file it down smooth as it only gets maybe 10 rounds a year through it.

Yowza! Had the wife open the package w the DelTon and use her magical index finger to “gauge” the Combat Armory feed ramps compared to the DelTon.

She said if ive fired 40 rds through the CA the fed ramps probably would’ve cut her fingertips before, they are so sharp compared to the DelTon ….!

First pic is DelTon, following pics Combat Armory

Maki said:
I bought a Pyramid trigger from Glockstore and had the same problem when I built my Poly80 G17. Tested the slide with a stock G22 to make sure it wasn't a slide issue, and ended up trashing the trigger for OEM (About $180 gone because it was outside of return window due to COVID parts delays). Overall it seems that aftermarket triggers may have tighter tolerances than stock which may cause issues with the trigger connector lowering enough to release the striker. Of course, that was with a Poly80 build and not an OEM Glock...If you've got the OEM Trigger, I'd toss that in to see if it works like that or not.

Goose bumps. Yep. I tried the oem trigger assembly last night before calling it quits at 3am and functions normally. Gonna reach out to Lone Wolf.

SkiPatrolDude · Dec 2, 2021

Looks like some pretty rough machining marks on that upper below the feed ramps. Spotty anodizing as well.

Well... you get what you pay for I guess.

slsc98 · Dec 2, 2021

SkiPatrolDude said:
Looks like some interesting cam pin wear on the inside of the upper. Some wear/peening in that area is not uncommon, especially if the buffer is too light causing premature unlocking, but I have not seen it in that specific area on any rifle before.

Inspect your cam pin on the BCG. Any indication of rubbing?

Pics of cam pin … anything appear excessive for first 40 rounds?

SkiPatrolDude · Dec 2, 2021

slsc98 said:
Hi, SkiPatrolDude - and Thank You. I am going to inspect the cam pin extremely closely when I get home and go through the entire upper with magnifications and “finger tips”.

I am clueless as the the weight buffer PSA sent the lower with, I, ASSuming milspec weight?

If it came with a PSA kit, I would bet the farm that it's a 3.0 oz carbine buffer.

I never use anything less than an H buffer and usually run H2's.

I imagine combat armory being a budget company has pretty liberal gas port sizing, so I'd prob just go to an H2 out of the gate.

One thing for sure, though, a 3oz buffer is too light for the majority of applications.

Looking at that cam pin, it's definitly making contact.

If it's running OK, I would start with running a heavier buffer. If you know anyone with headspace gauges, might also be helpful to check that to ensure nothing dangerous is going on.

outrider58 · Dec 2, 2021

I would like to see some fired brass from that gun to inspect the rims and sides of the cases for damage either from the extractor(and it should be sharp enough to leave two parallel scratches in your forearm when dragged across it) or from around the feed ramps. There does seem to be a 'step' or ledge where the feed ramp of the barrel extension sticks up higher than the feed ramp on the aluminum receiver. If you run a fine-point pen up the feed ramps toward the chamber and the nib wants to hang up on that little ledge, that will cause problems like shaving and in worse cases, bullet setback.

Note: Feed ramp work should be done by someone with experience. Never work on feed ramps with the barrel mounted on the upper receiver. It must always be removed before any ramp work is performed. Never alter the upper receiver feed ramp area. All ramp work is to be performed on the barrel extension exclusively.

Still some of that shaving could be from out of spec parts that may eventually wear in(or not). Those over enlarged pictures can make things look worse than they are.

slsc98 · Dec 3, 2021

SkiPatrolDude said:
If it came with a PSA kit, I would bet the farm that it's a 3.0 oz carbine buffer.

I never use anything less than an H buffer and usually run H2's.

I imagine combat armory being a budget company has pretty liberal gas port sizing, so I'd prob just go to an H2 out of the gate.

One thing for sure, though, a 3oz buffer is too light for the majority of applications.

Looking at that cam pin, it's definitly making contact.

If it's running OK, I would start with running a heavier buffer. If you know anyone with headspace gauges, might also be helpful to check that to ensure nothing dangerous is going on.

Thank YOU, SPDude.

Do you have a preferred (best pricing) for those buffers? I see a lot of them in our future …

I may have a line on someone with both gauges and sufficient experience (not just greater experience / knowledge than my own at present)

slsc98 · Dec 3, 2021

outrider58 said:
I would like to see some fired brass from that gun to inspect the rims and sides of the cases for damage either from the extractor(and it should be sharp enough to leave two parallel scratches in your forearm when dragged across it) or from around the feed ramps. There does seem to be a 'step' or ledge where the feed ramp of the barrel extension sticks up higher than the feed ramp on the aluminum receiver. If you run a fine-point pen up the feed ramps toward the chamber and the nib wants to hang up on that little ledge, that will cause problems like shaving and in worse cases, bullet setback.

Note: Feed ramp work should be done by someone with experience. Never work on feed ramps with the barrel mounted on the upper receiver. It must always be removed before any ramp work is performed. Never alter the upper receiver feed ramp area. All ramp work is to be performed on the barrel extension exclusively.

Still some of that shaving could be from out of spec parts that may eventually wear in(or not). Those over enlarged pictures can make things look worse than they are.

Man, thank YOU!

I did retrieve all brass and as soon as I get back to where I have it stashed it’s getting examined and if I see any marks etc I’ll post up pics

Roger Wilco on not trying any DoItMyself on any feed ramp work :thumbsup:

Yeah, sorry bout the pics; I am juggling too many things at once and, seeing as to how it’s gonna approach 70 today wifey put her foot down and said we’re both “taking a day off” and taking the boat out this afternoon.

I’m following her orders on this! :lol:

slsc98 · Dec 3, 2021

Looks like the ejector is leaving one heckuvan impression … I’m having a tough time discerning any patterns among horiz striations on case exteriors (firing line is unfinished concrete)

Also, I forgot take pics but, bolt face and bolt lugs look Non-remarkable (clean bolt face and no visible chipping or other wear on corners of lug edges. At least not to my untrained eye. (On second thoughts I will try and post closeup of bolt front within next day or two ..,!)

slsc98 · Dec 3, 2021

5 more photos; and, I should ADD:

Those “chatter” gouges on rims of case heads are not on every case - I picked out the 15 or so out of 40 that bear those angles of missing brass …

jrumann59 · Dec 3, 2021

I would have the head space checked, and bolt checked to see if its in spec.

Headspace could be or could have been tight and the barrel extension and bolt lugs worked out their differences, also bolt could be out of spec totally extractor pin marks. Steel shavings can only be introduced from a handful of places in the AR. I would also inspect the gas key at the top of the BCG ad in the upper if there was any mis-alignment you could also get shavings.

slsc98 · Dec 3, 2021

jrumann59 said:
I would have the head space checked, and bolt checked to see if its in spec.

Headspace could be or could have been tight and the barrel extension and bolt lugs worked out their differences, also bolt could be out of spec totally extractor pin marks. Steel shavings can only be introduced from a handful of places in the AR. I would also inspect the gas key at the top of the BCG ad in the upper if there was any mis-alignment you could also get shavings.

Thank YOU!

Hmmmm, now that you mention that, I seem to recall the bcg and front charging handle not “snugging” closed as easily as I am used to when I first unpackaged the complete upper, awhile back.

But, didn’t notice it when I re-assemble after cleaning after I got home from the range after these first 40 rounds and I flushed everything clean.

Rushing to drs appts now (d*mn knees!) and then out on lake but, gonna pull it and check it before calling it a night, tonight!

outrider58 · Dec 3, 2021

jrumann59 said:
I would have the head space checked, and bolt checked to see if its in spec.

Headspace could be or could have been tight and the barrel extension and bolt lugs worked out their differences, also bolt could be out of spec totally extractor pin marks. Steel shavings can only be introduced from a handful of places in the AR. I would also inspect the gas key at the top of the BCG ad in the upper if there was any mis-alignment you could also get shavings.

^^^This. All of this.

To check gas tube alignment:

1)Remove bolt from bolt carrier.

2)Remove upper from lower.

3)With the upper held bottom side up, hold the upper at a 45 deg angle with barrel at the low end. Insert the bolt carrier(sans bolt and charging handle) into the rear of the upper and let it slide down into 'battery'. Did the carrier go all the way into battery without hanging up on the gas tube? Then it is fine. If the carrier stops short of going into battery or needs a little 'help', then the tube is misaligned. Slight misalignment can be fixed by bending the tube a little. Bad misalignment might be because the barrel nut is not perfectly clocked and needs to be addressed.

Brass:

Definitely looks like something going on there. Possibly headspace issue. Also, it could be because of the photo enlargement, but your brass has a frosted appearance which is indicative of a rough chamber. Going back to checking headspace, if it is too tight, it could be re-reamed. That would take care of both issues.

Being this is a new upper, and if the BCG came with the upper, if it fails a headspace gauge, you should contact the manufacturer about the situation and remedied.

SkiPatrolDude · Dec 3, 2021

Brass can also get chewed up as a result of improper lock time. Heavier buffer can likely solve it.

As others have stated, the head space should definitely be checked as a first step as well.

slsc98 · Dec 3, 2021

Guys, just wanna say a big Thank YOU and your experience is MUCH appreciated!

Are these what I should obtain and use to check headspace?

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007250815?pid=915546

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007256343?pid=944154

outrider58 · Dec 3, 2021

slsc98 said:
Guys, just wanna say a big Thank YOU and your experience is MUCH appreciated!

Are these what I should obtain and use to check headspace?

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007250815?pid=915546

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007256343?pid=944154

No. It depends on your barrel/chamber. You want a 'go' and 'no-go' gauge in either .223 Rem, .223 Wylde, or 5.56 NATO. It all depends on what the exact chambering of the barrel is. It should say in your paperwork from your purchase.

slsc98 · Dec 3, 2021

outrider58 said:
No. It depends on your barrel/chamber. You want a 'go' and 'no-go' gauge in either .223 Rem, .223 Wylde, or 5.56 NATO. It all depends on what the exact chambering of the barrel is. It should say in your paperwork from your purchase.

Okay, gotcha. Paperwork says 556 so I guess my question is, are those PTG 556 ‘go’ and ‘no-go’ gauges what I want?

ALSO! Elated to report that when I did the alignment test exactly as you spelled it out, bolt carrier (sans bolt and ch) fell / slipped right into battery with ZERO resistance.

Thank YOU for taking the time to share that critical test! :party29:

outrider58 · Dec 4, 2021

slsc98 said:
Okay, gotcha. Paperwork says 556 so I guess my question is, are those PTG 556 ‘go’ and ‘no-go’ gauges what I want?

ALSO! Elated to report that when I did the alignment test exactly as you spelled it out, bolt carrier (sans bolt and ch) fell / slipped right into battery with ZERO resistance.

Thank YOU for taking the time to share that critical test!

These..

https://www.amazon.com/5-56mm-NATO-...5.56+go+no+go+gauge+set&qid=1638610282&sr=8-2

slsc98 · Dec 7, 2021

outrider58 said:
These..

https://www.amazon.com/5-56mm-NATO-...5.56+go+no+go+gauge+set&qid=1638610282&sr=8-2

Thank YOU!

Better price than Brownells or Midway, also! :party29:

clandestine · Dec 7, 2021

Lots of fake Forster gauges on Amazon and eBay. They are often out of spec too.

jrumann59 · Dec 8, 2021

clandestine said:
Lots of fake Forster gauges on Amazon and eBay. They are often out of spec too.

Yep usually made in in china and called "Folster" gauges :lol2:

First time out w Combat Armory upper

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