What did you do at your reloading bench today?

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  • IronDuck

    Active Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 11, 2021
    488
    Frederick ish MD
    I began setting up for making a few 30-06 Garand reloads today.
    I found bullets at Gander Mountain, in Triadelphia WV,
    they had only one box of Hornady 30 Cal, 150 gr. FMJ/BT, $32.89
    they had no powder, no primers, and no brass well no brass I was interested, very little selection.
    Then I found some powder and more bullets, in Everett Pa, Juniata Trading Post. wasn't looking for powder but they were selling for I think $30. +or- a pound!
    They had a large selection and qty of powders, I purchased a lb. of IMR 4895 for reloading the Garand bullets and another 100 Hornady 30 Cal, 150 gr. FMJ/BT. $29.99.
    They also have a large selection of bullets, no brass, no primers.

    I have a
    1lb of powder IMR 4895... Should have purchased a few more

    200 Hornady 30 Cal, 150 gr. FMJ/BT.

    1,000 CCI Magnum large rifle primers FYI purchase at Gander Mountain, in Triadelphia WV, 2 weeks ago $64.00
    1,000 CCI Large rifle primers Purchased at Nations gun show Dulles for $125.00 3 weeks ago.

    40 pieces of Brass "30-06 SPRG FU or FO, Purchased at York gun Show last week for $12.00

    14 Pieces of Brass "Greek HXP 68 once shot, by me.

    So tonight I will work out sizing the brass. Little concerned about that, understand getting it correct is key to keeping the Garand healthy, and not blowing my face off! :cool:
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    I began setting up for making a few 30-06 Garand reloads today.
    I found bullets at Gander Mountain, in Triadelphia WV,
    they had only one box of Hornady 30 Cal, 150 gr. FMJ/BT, $32.89
    they had no powder, no primers, and no brass well no brass I was interested, very little selection.
    Then I found some powder and more bullets, in Everett Pa, Juniata Trading Post. wasn't looking for powder but they were selling for I think $30. +or- a pound!
    They had a large selection and qty of powders, I purchased a lb. of IMR 4895 for reloading the Garand bullets and another 100 Hornady 30 Cal, 150 gr. FMJ/BT. $29.99.
    They also have a large selection of bullets, no brass, no primers.

    I have a
    1lb of powder IMR 4895... Should have purchased a few more

    200 Hornady 30 Cal, 150 gr. FMJ/BT.

    1,000 CCI Magnum large rifle primers FYI purchase at Gander Mountain, in Triadelphia WV, 2 weeks ago $64.00
    1,000 CCI Large rifle primers Purchased at Nations gun show Dulles for $125.00 3 weeks ago.

    40 pieces of Brass "30-06 SPRG FU or FO, Purchased at York gun Show last week for $12.00

    14 Pieces of Brass "Greek HXP 68 once shot, by me.

    So tonight I will work out sizing the brass. Little concerned about that, understand getting it correct is key to keeping the Garand healthy, and not blowing my face off! :cool:

    Load a couple dummies. IE no powder or primers. Test in your Garand’s chamber. Make sure it chambers probably. Then yank them apart and load them up.
     

    GunBum

    Active Member
    Feb 21, 2018
    751
    SW Missouri
    I’m cleaning up and organizing. I have a problem. These are SOME of my AR spare parts bins. Gonna see how many complete rifles I can build from them. Might get as many as 4-5. Lol.

    I had the same problem a while ago. I built a 9mm AR upper clone to my .40 S&W AR. I also built a .22LR upper, and 2 different 5.56 uppers. I only had to get sights for the 4 uppers. I also did 2 lowers. One in a Glock small Mag and one in a standard 5.56. I still have unfinished 4 lowers that are waiting to leave MD. :sad20:

    The good news is I only have one box of AR parts left, and not enough to make a complete anything. :lol2:
     

    IronDuck

    Active Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 11, 2021
    488
    Frederick ish MD
    Load a couple dummies. IE no powder or primers. Test in your Garand’s chamber. Make sure it chambers probably. Then yank them apart and load them up.

    Good thought, I just finished doing that!

    I discovered, I don't have a large primer press for my single Lee press. Darn the luck! And... AND the powder I purchased isn't included in the
    Hornady chart for Garand 150 gr bullet,
    Lyman book lists it for 150gr but not specific to Garand, says drop one to two gr's 46 on chart so 44 or 45.
    Hodgdon chart lists
    150 "NOS BT" start charge 49.0
    150 "NOS E-TIP" start charge at 47.0

    Put it in, shake it all about and I'm going with
    45 gr
    :party29:
    Damn this is fun!
     

    erwos

    The Hebrew Hammer
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 25, 2009
    13,866
    Rockville, MD
    Now I am real curious to check more. It’s possible what I was looking at was undersized, but all passed the OAL gauge okay and fit the case gauge just fine. No proud primers I saw. Again, I probably checked a double handful of 30 or so rounds.

    I might have time to check this weekend. More to come (for mine anyway). You are making me glad I didn’t order more before they ran out of stock. :-)
    Yeah, results of the first bag were not good at all (just finished it tonight). 137/250 were rejects. Even the stuff that gauged had shoulders that could charitably be described as marginal. Plus side, a little bit of fire-forming should cure them up just fine, and I just happen to have a pile of .310 150gr cast bullets that I don't have any use for.

    The funny part is, of course, if I can harvest 100 primed brass per bag that are usable, I'm still coming out way ahead. Bison Brass sells 250 pieces UNPRIMED for $113 shipped.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    Yeah, results of the first bag were not good at all (just finished it tonight). 137/250 were rejects. Even the stuff that gauged had shoulders that could charitably be described as marginal. Plus side, a little bit of fire-forming should cure them up just fine, and I just happen to have a pile of .310 150gr cast bullets that I don't have any use for.

    The funny part is, of course, if I can harvest 100 primed brass per bag that are usable, I'm still coming out way ahead. Bison Brass sells 250 pieces UNPRIMED for $113 shipped.

    That’s sort of my thought. When it comes down to it, I just don’t have much brass cased 7.62x39. I’ve got maybe 40 cases spent. I’ve got maybe 100 commercially loaded rounds in it. About 1.5k steel.

    At what 7.62x39 cases seem to run for, I don’t need too many salvaged cases to break even.

    What’s a good way to check shoulder angle and set back? Just compare to known good cases? None of the ones I checked were dropping in to the case gauge too far. Though that doesn’t say that the angle is right.

    None of this I was figuring I’d load hot. So fire forming is going to be the way I solve a lot of them that will gauge.

    I didn’t have the time today to check any more. Had to do more gutting of my master bath, dump run and a 4th party. Tomorrow morning I get back up in to my attic to finish redoing the electrical for the bathroom and probably a crap load of mowing. I’ve got Monday off though. If the pocket door install goes quick I’ll sit down at my loading bench and check through the bag.
     

    erwos

    The Hebrew Hammer
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 25, 2009
    13,866
    Rockville, MD
    Just finished bag #2. 118 rejects, or maybe 119 if we count the piece of primed 9mm brass I found in there. A little better than last time. Still turning out to be a deal if we decide my time is totally worthless (and there's not some hidden flaw with the ones that seem to be otherwise OK). Some of them appeared to be pulls given that there was a bit of powder left in the case... I'd kill for the story behind this brass, it must have been multiple sources.

    Here are some of the flaws I'm finding:
    1. Missing/mal-inserted primers
    2. High primers (usually detectable by thumb)
    3. Necks too long. Some of them were so comically long that I'm not even sure how you'd do this with a real 7.62x39 die. My new theory is that some of these were run through with a 30-30 die based on the size of the necks. Others were in the "close, no cigar" column.
    4. Busted case mouths.

    If we assume I can get ~500 primed cases and ~500 LRPs out of this, that was a heck of a deal for the $135 I paid. If none of yours are dropping too far into the gauge by the time you're done, I'd seriously question the efficacy of your case gauge (I'm using a Lyman, and the results match what I'd expect when eyeballing the case.) Remember to push hard to make sure they're going in all the way.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    Just finished bag #2. 118 rejects, or maybe 119 if we count the piece of primed 9mm brass I found in there. A little better than last time. Still turning out to be a deal if we decide my time is totally worthless (and there's not some hidden flaw with the ones that seem to be otherwise OK). Some of them appeared to be pulls given that there was a bit of powder left in the case... I'd kill for the story behind this brass, it must have been multiple sources.

    Here are some of the flaws I'm finding:
    1. Missing/mal-inserted primers
    2. High primers (usually detectable by thumb)
    3. Necks too long. Some of them were so comically long that I'm not even sure how you'd do this with a real 7.62x39 die. My new theory is that some of these were run through with a 30-30 die based on the size of the necks. Others were in the "close, no cigar" column.
    4. Busted case mouths.

    If we assume I can get ~500 primed cases and ~500 LRPs out of this, that was a heck of a deal for the $135 I paid. If none of yours are dropping too far into the gauge by the time you're done, I'd seriously question the efficacy of your case gauge (I'm using a Lyman, and the results match what I'd expect when eyeballing the case.) Remember to push hard to make sure they're going in all the way.

    I am using a Lyman MSR case gauge block to check them. Pushing with modest pressure once they drop in, but so far none have gotten stuck going in. A couple needed a tap with a hex wrench to drop back out after I pushed them when they had bottomed out. But none seemed to be over inserting.
     

    erwos

    The Hebrew Hammer
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 25, 2009
    13,866
    Rockville, MD
    I am using a Lyman MSR case gauge block to check them. Pushing with modest pressure once they drop in, but so far none have gotten stuck going in. A couple needed a tap with a hex wrench to drop back out after I pushed them when they had bottomed out. But none seemed to be over inserting.
    The murderer's row that I am seeing, from left to right:
    1. Decent piece of 7.62x39 brass. All too rare.
    2. Neck too long, shoulder probably good enough to chamber. Fire-forming will probably sort it out. Good time to mess with 7.62x39 subs and CFE BLK, maybe.
    3. Neck too long, shoulder too far back to chamber correctly. Will either blow out due to headspace or move too far in for the firing pin to reach.
    4. lolwtf, I don't even know how you could do this.

    ETA: I have no idea why my pictures keep coming out sideways, they don't look like that on my computer.

    ETA2: 125 rejects in bag #3, or 126 if you count the piece of primed 308 they put in there. :P

    20210704_095339.jpg
     
    Last edited:

    GunBum

    Active Member
    Feb 21, 2018
    751
    SW Missouri

    IronDuck

    Active Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 11, 2021
    488
    Frederick ish MD

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,734
    Socialist State of Maryland
    The murderer's row that I am seeing, from left to right:
    1. Decent piece of 7.62x39 brass. All too rare.
    2. Neck too long, shoulder probably good enough to chamber. Fire-forming will probably sort it out. Good time to mess with 7.62x39 subs and CFE BLK, maybe.
    3. Neck too long, shoulder too far back to chamber correctly. Will either blow out due to headspace or move too far in for the firing pin to reach.
    4. lolwtf, I don't even know how you could do this.

    ETA: I have no idea why my pictures keep coming out sideways, they don't look like that on my computer.

    ETA2: 125 rejects in bag #3, or 126 if you count the piece of primed 308 they put in there. :P

    View attachment 316805

    I would fire form the long necks by putting 5 grains of a fast burning powder and filling the case with corn meal. I have saved many a mistake that way. ;)
     

    erwos

    The Hebrew Hammer
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 25, 2009
    13,866
    Rockville, MD
    I would fire form the long necks by putting 5 grains of a fast burning powder and filling the case with corn meal. I have saved many a mistake that way. ;)
    That's sort of the direction I'm going, yeah. I guess annealing them first might be sensible to avoid splitting necks and shoulders, but I don't have an annealer machine to do that in a reasonable time frame.

    Last bag had 109 rejects, so total reject number is 489/1000, assuming the bags were filled as expected. Most of the rejects appeared to have primers I could pop out, not to mention that a few them were unprimed (and thus might be rescue-able). Feeling pretty good about the purchase so far. We'll see how I feel about it when the fire-forming and depriming results are in...
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,734
    Socialist State of Maryland
    That's sort of the direction I'm going, yeah. I guess annealing them first might be sensible to avoid splitting necks and shoulders, but I don't have an annealer machine to do that in a reasonable time frame.

    Last bag had 109 rejects, so total reject number is 489/1000, assuming the bags were filled as expected. Most of the rejects appeared to have primers I could pop out, not to mention that a few them were unprimed (and thus might be rescue-able). Feeling pretty good about the purchase so far. We'll see how I feel about it when the fire-forming and depriming results are in...

    Here is a quick and dirty on annealing with nothing but a propane torch. First, you need a torch with a pencil head. You can probably get one at HomeDepot. This is best done in a dark garage or basement. It is not rocket science but does keep you from getting split necks.

    Get a five gallon bucket and fill 3/4 with water.

    Get a chair to sit in front of bucket

    With the light turned down low, play the blue part of the flame over the neck of the case while twisting back and forth with your fingers.

    At the first sign of red color, drop the brass in the bucket. The water does nothing as brass doesn't quench harden but it is a safe material to drop the brass into rather than a towel.

    I know this isn't scientific but I have been using it for almost sixty years and it works. The pencil flame keeps your fingers from feeling the heat and the neck will get to red before you feel to much heat at the case head.

    I would anneal them before fire forming or you will lose some to neck splits.
     

    teratos

    My hair is amazing
    MDS Supporter
    Patriot Picket
    Jan 22, 2009
    59,775
    Bel Air
    Here is a quick and dirty on annealing with nothing but a propane torch. First, you need a torch with a pencil head. You can probably get one at HomeDepot. This is best done in a dark garage or basement. It is not rocket science but does keep you from getting split necks.

    Get a five gallon bucket and fill 3/4 with water.

    Get a chair to sit in front of bucket

    With the light turned down low, play the blue part of the flame over the neck of the case while twisting back and forth with your fingers.

    At the first sign of red color, drop the brass in the bucket. The water does nothing as brass doesn't quench harden but it is a safe material to drop the brass into rather than a towel.

    I know this isn't scientific but I have been using it for almost sixty years and it works. The pencil flame keeps your fingers from feeling the heat and the neck will get to red before you feel to much heat at the case head.

    I would anneal them before fire forming or you will lose some to neck splits.
    Good to know! Thanks!
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    The murderer's row that I am seeing, from left to right:
    1. Decent piece of 7.62x39 brass. All too rare.
    2. Neck too long, shoulder probably good enough to chamber. Fire-forming will probably sort it out. Good time to mess with 7.62x39 subs and CFE BLK, maybe.
    3. Neck too long, shoulder too far back to chamber correctly. Will either blow out due to headspace or move too far in for the firing pin to reach.
    4. lolwtf, I don't even know how you could do this.

    ETA: I have no idea why my pictures keep coming out sideways, they don't look like that on my computer.

    ETA2: 125 rejects in bag #3, or 126 if you count the piece of primed 308 they put in there. :P

    View attachment 316805

    Oh holy heck! No, I’ve seen nothing like the bad ones you’ve seen. Again, still haven’t looked at much. But jeez!
     

    erwos

    The Hebrew Hammer
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 25, 2009
    13,866
    Rockville, MD
    Oh holy heck! No, I’ve seen nothing like the bad ones you’ve seen. Again, still haven’t looked at much. But jeez!
    Started loading them today. Going with 11gr CFE BLK and some leftover coated 150s as my starter load. Neck tension is not exactly phenomenal. Usable, but I would use a medium crimp for your first outing.
     

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