Gunsmith Stones?

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  • trickg

    Guns 'n Drums
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 22, 2008
    14,598
    Glen Burnie
    I did a search for stones on the forum, (did a search on thread titles) and didn't come up with much.

    I've read over and over about using stones to polish things like triggers, or being used to help hand-fit various parts.

    I'm currently looking into the idea of getting an oversized cylinder stop to tighten up an old S&W revolver, but ovesized stop will likely need to be fitted. That's where the stones come in, and where I'm not altogether sure what I need. I figure that this is a pretty easy proposition - it's not an expensive part, and if I screw it up, I can always put the old part back in.

    Any recommendations for what stones to get, what grits I'd need - that sort of thing? I once watched a guy trying to polish a trigger with fine grit wet/dry sandpaper and a block of wood, and although I know that the sandpaper was fine enough grit to do the job, I couldn't help but think that a stone would allow for a very very clean, flat finish on a part where a clean and flat finish is critical, whereas using the block with sandpaper might cause some rounding at the edges?

    In any case, I've always had an interest in gunsmithing due to my father doing gun work, and I figure that he got started similarly to me - he had an interest in knowing how things went together, so he took on projects and paid very close attention to what he was doing.

    Which brings me back to the stones. All recommendations are welcome.
     

    4g64loser

    Bad influence
    Jan 18, 2007
    6,382
    maryland
    Check out Sinclair/Brownells in the general gunsmithing tools section. There are specialty shapes and sizes but a few basic ones will go a long way. Focus on the finer grits. The biggest thing is having a way to hold the parts. Some are very small and/or odd shapes. Building fixtures is a must.
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    I use Norton hard Arkansas stones/files for the most part/
    Two grits mostly, fine and medium. Some are coarse.
    Usually 1/4" x 4"
    round, square, cone shaped, triangular, flat
    For polishing I use very fine machine paper/crocus cloth flat steel block and some sort of oil to float the material/keep stones clear-clean.

    Some of the stones are expensive. I keep them over the work bench usually a shop towel is involved to prevent unnecessary breakage.
     

    ohen cepel

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 2, 2011
    4,509
    Where they send me.
    Piece of glass with polishing compound on it is good for things you want to keep flat. Not going to remove a lot of metal but great for polishing.

    I have a few gunsmithing stones for hard to reach areas but I have seldom used them.
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    I got a set of gunsmithing stones MANY years ago.

    There are about 6 or 7 different shapes for different uses. All are very find hard Arkansas material.

    And they remove VERY little metal, but put a mirror polish on the part.
     

    trickg

    Guns 'n Drums
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 22, 2008
    14,598
    Glen Burnie
    Good stuff - thanks for the suggestions.

    This is definitely something I don't want to go cheap with, but it's something I think I should definitely acquire in order to do the kinds of work I'm trying to do, which is to do some basic cleanup on certain stock parts - MilSpec AR triggers tend to be pretty gritty too, and it's something that I can do without fear of really ruining anything - if I screw it up, it's pretty easy to replace and start again.
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    Big pack came in today. I ordered one 1/4x1/4 to try one out when I bought some 8x40 taps not realizing 1 meant the box.:o
    I gave 10 of them away already.

    IMG_2300.jpg
     

    bpm32

    Active Member
    Nov 26, 2010
    675
    I use AM-8 Boride Engineered stones. They make them down to 120 grit (doesn’t correspond to sand paper grit) and up to 1000 grit, which are good for things like sear surfaces. The only problem is you have to buy them in bulk and they basically last forever.

    You actually can use PSA paper or any sticky-back sand paper for the type of fitting mentioned in the OP, but I would probably use an aluminum or steel block instead of wood. Just Dykem and go slow.
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,564
    Harford County, Maryland
    I use ceramic, India and Arkansas stones. The Arkansas I use are fine white and a black for special trigger jobs.

    I use files to rough fit, swiss patterns to closer fit, then stones to final fit and polish. I see no future to take .010” of metal off with stones. Eats up stones. I will cut with a rough stone if a finish is real hard (like recent Springers) then file. Files get it close, stones final fit.
     

    jamestheless

    Member
    Jul 29, 2021
    9
    Arkansas stones are all you need for polishing actions and lightening triggers. Get 2 sets. One for carbon steel and one for stainless. Any carbon tools will depacify stainless and promote rust. You can repacify with chrome cleaner, or if you want it shiny use chrome polish. Never change the shape of any gun parts, polish with stones only. If new parts do not fit. Get parts that do!
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,564
    Harford County, Maryland
    Arkansas stones are all you need for polishing actions and lightening triggers. Get 2 sets. One for carbon steel and one for stainless. Any carbon tools will depacify stainless and promote rust. You can repacify with chrome cleaner, or if you want it shiny use chrome polish. Never change the shape of any gun parts, polish with stones only. If new parts do not fit. Get parts that do!

    There are parts which are produced oversize so a good fit may be achieved. Just sayin’
     
    Last edited:

    jamestheless

    Member
    Jul 29, 2021
    9
    Reducing trigger pull.

    Lightening triggers. Kits are available. Coil springs can be judiciously clipped, trial and error. Leaf springs can be reduced carefully, but only on narrow sides, never on flat sides as this severely reduces spring temper♡. Two pound triggers used to be necessary in Bullseye cause it was one-handed, single action, and the guns needed to be 38.5 ozs. Today you can get sued over a 2 lb. trigger. Besides, with 2 hands you can just learn your firearm and know exactly the break point for every shot. Lots faster this way as well. In 1978 I used to compete in ppc totally double action, against officers still doing single action. Except the 50 yd stage♡.
     
    Last edited:

    trickg

    Guns 'n Drums
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 22, 2008
    14,598
    Glen Burnie
    There are parts that are produced oversized so a good fit may be achieved. Just sayin’
    That's exactly right - there are some parts that are oversized on purpose specifically so they can be hand-fitted for a very precise fit. Drop-in parts are convenient, but there's always going to be just a touch of slop because the parts have to be machined so that there is a general fit across various makers of a similar firearms - 1911s are a good example of that.
     

    alucard0822

    For great Justice
    Oct 29, 2007
    17,643
    PA
    I use Congress tools or Mcmaster for gunsmithing and sharpening stones. Silicon carbide to hog off material(cuts like diamond but better finish), Aluminum Oxide for general use(hard to shape parts/sharpen, soft in fine grits to smooth and start to polish), and usually chrome oxide compound on wood or leather to polish.
     

    HiStandards

    Active Member
    Aug 1, 2017
    571
    Anne Arundel Co
    MSC Industrial Supply is another good source. Huge selection and better prices than more gun oriented suppliers. Err on the side of too fine. It will take longer, but you have time and it is harder to put metal back on. Stones will basically last you forever, or until you drop them.
     
    Last edited:

    jamestheless

    Member
    Jul 29, 2021
    9
    Mil spec is fine in most disciplines.

    That's exactly right - there are some parts that are oversized on purpose specifically so they can be hand-fitted for a very precise fit. Drop-in parts are convenient, but there's always going to be just a touch of slop because the parts have to be machined so that there is a general fit across various makers of a similar firearms - 1911s are a good example of that.
    Paperpunching, hunting, etc, is a diff story from IDPA, bowling pins, steel plates, or social altercations. For the former precise tolerances are your friend, for the latter not so much. Mil spec interchangeability is fine for squad weapons and keeping your enemies' heads down. For my game handgun I want precision. For my carrying piece I want it to always go bang, but, call me crazy...I still want to know exactly where each shot is going♡.
     

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