Weighing down a synthetic stock gun.

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

  • No ad networks!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • wb3jma

    Active Member
    Nov 15, 2020
    533
    Belcamp, MD Harford County
    So now that ammo is coming slowly back I went and started shooting my guns including the Mossberg Patriot in 270 Win. I found that after 50 rounds I was getting flinch considerable flinch. I'm looking to weigh the gun down, besides the scope I already have I'm going to add a bipod to it. I also noticed when I but a Limbsaver pad on it the the rear pf the stock is hollow. I figured a little more weight would tame it easier than than going to the trouble of threading the barrel and adding a compensator/brake to it.

    So what might be best used in that hollow compartment? Also if I'm still not happy I think I might be swap the gun instead for another caliber like 7mm-08 or 6.5 Creedmoor. Which would you choose I might want to shoot game bigger than deer but not often.
     

    ohen cepel

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 2, 2011
    4,513
    Where they send me.
    Glaze coat in the fore end is worth a look. Best to keep some balance to it. There are recoil reducers (Edwards) that go into the butt stock to help with recoil but doesn't add a ton of weight.

    May regret it if you want to hunt with it down the road. 50rds with a deer rifle is a fair amount for me in a day.
     

    wb3jma

    Active Member
    Nov 15, 2020
    533
    Belcamp, MD Harford County
    Glaze coat in the fore end is worth a look. Best to keep some balance to it. There are recoil reducers (Edwards) that go into the butt stock to help with recoil but doesn't add a ton of weight.

    May regret it if you want to hunt with it down the road. 50rds with a deer rifle is a fair amount for me in a day.

    I looked at recoil reducers like Dead Mule, but they rely on a typically wood stock that already ahs place to insert it or drill a hole for it. In this case the back of the stock is completely hollow. I was thinking about a soft dive weight of 1 lb.
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    33,137
    1. .270 Win isn't a particularly hard kicking round. One of its design criteria and original selling points was being a lower recoiling option to the long standard .30-06 .

    2. The issue may well be the stock fit .

    3. Felt recoil is much more pronounced from the bench than from standing , kneeling, sitting , etc .

    4. For long bench sessions , use adaptive aides , like a shoulder worn Past recoil shield , or use some flavor of sissy bag.

    5 Enough weight for meaningful recoil reduction will effect the balance of the rifle . That could be good or bad , depending upon how well the current balance suits you . ie , If currently muzzle heavy , weight added to rear will even the balance . If " just right" currently , it would make the muzzle whippy . To keep about same as current , you would have to carefully add weight in multiple locations .

    6. And finally , if intended for Hunting , in the context of including walking distances with rifle slung , over terrain and/ or mountains , it's a tradeoff of shooting vs carrying .
     

    Gordon

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 20, 2011
    1,132
    Baltimore City
    I whipped up a mix of clear silicone,a bit of mineral spirits and #7 1/2 shot. Mixed and poured into stock and let it set. Use a sleeve of pvc tube diameter of tool you’ll be using to remove stock in the future. Option to leave in place or remove. Just remember to lube the o/s of pvc and cut longer to remove. I used this on my AR10
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,725
    If you are shooting off bags consider adding an inexpensive (but decent) bipod. That’ll add some weight and if used properly you can put tension in to it. That’ll all aid in how recoil is felt some. And easy enough to attach some weight to the bipod.

    But when it comes down to it, a hunting rifle shouldn’t be your bench gun. What I want for hunting with a .308 or .30-06 or whatever isn’t what I want to be sitting there shooting several boxes of ammo with. Maybe my only exception would be my Howa 1500 in 6.5 Grendel. But even there, to make a GREAT bench gun, I would want a stock designed for Ben great shooting and heavier than it is. Even if at just under 8lbs with scope it works very well on a bench and the recoil is mild enough to sit and shoot 100+ rounds no worries. Even without a bipod or brake/suppressor on it.

    If I wanted an all day .308, 6.5 creedmor, .270, .30-06, etc. I’d be looking at a rifle with a purpose built stock for that, a heavy barrel and probably a heavy optic tipping the scales at >10lbs and not something I’d ever want to lug in to the field.

    My Sako Forester in .308 is just over 8lbs. Though it’s old, the recoil pad is nice and squishy still. It starts to be annoying after 20 rounds from the bench and starts to suck by 40. If ever I have a range session where I think I’ll shoot more than about 20 rounds I either do that with winter clothing on in the appropriate season or slip on a shoulder recoil pad.

    My AR-10 also can start getting rough once you climb up there in round count. 18” fluted HBAR. 9lbs with scope. Adjustable gas system tuned low. Two boxes of ammo in and your shoulder let’s you know you’ve been a bad boy. 3-4 and your shoulder (well mine) is going to be sore the next day. Standing or sitting and it’s fine till much higher round counts. I haven’t shot it with a can yet. But I suspect that’ll tame it significantly more.

    But, if I wanted it to be a bench gun I’d have gone with a bench stock and not a minimalist. That right there would make a huge difference between probably 6-8oz more, thicker recoil pad and a better cheek weld. A 20-24” heavy barrel without fluting would also be an enormous change.

    I’ve got designs on a 300WSM at some point as probably my heaviest gun for it I ever get out west to hunt. I’d like to be able to shoot it from the bench occasionally and not hate myself or the gun. Threaded, suppressor and bipod are my plans for bench shooting. If needed shoulder recoil pad also. Probably won’t shoot more than 30-40 rounds in any sitting even with that.
     

    smokey

    2A TEACHER
    Jan 31, 2008
    31,497
    You have a lot of experience with rifles? Sure it's not a technique issue? .270 shouldn't put out that much of a thump. Hunting rifles are meant to be easily carried. +1 for picking up a heavier bench rest style rifle if that's the intended application.
     

    pre64hunter

    Active Member
    Mar 19, 2010
    658
    Harford County
    I test shoot a lot of 12 ga. slugs off a bench, as many as 75 or 80 in a session. Slug guns are real thumpers as anyone can tell you. I use a Past recoil reducer pad, the kind you wear on your shoulder. I have no problem with recoil sensitivity.
    If I'm only shooting a few, 10 or 20, I use a sand bag between my shoulder and the butt plate. I use an empty shot bag 3/4 filled with sand. It also helps keep your eye farther back away from the scope so you don't get dinged in the eyebrow.
    I wouldn't add weight to the gun, as others said, proper fit and technic is more important.
     

    wb3jma

    Active Member
    Nov 15, 2020
    533
    Belcamp, MD Harford County
    1. .270 Win isn't a particularly hard kicking round. One of its design criteria and original selling points was being a lower recoiling option to the long standard .30-06 .

    2. The issue may well be the stock fit .

    3. Felt recoil is much more pronounced from the bench than from standing , kneeling, sitting , etc .

    4. For long bench sessions , use adaptive aides , like a shoulder worn Past recoil shield , or use some flavor of sissy bag.

    5 Enough weight for meaningful recoil reduction will effect the balance of the rifle . That could be good or bad , depending upon how well the current balance suits you . ie , If currently muzzle heavy , weight added to rear will even the balance . If " just right" currently , it would make the muzzle whippy . To keep about same as current , you would have to carefully add weight in multiple locations .

    6. And finally , if intended for Hunting , in the context of including walking distances with rifle slung , over terrain and/ or mountains , it's a tradeoff of shooting vs carrying .

    You may be right but the two outdoor ranges I have used do not allow shooting offhand so I can't compare.
     

    wb3jma

    Active Member
    Nov 15, 2020
    533
    Belcamp, MD Harford County
    If you are shooting off bags consider adding an inexpensive (but decent) bipod. That’ll add some weight and if used properly you can put tension in to it. That’ll all aid in how recoil is felt some. And easy enough to attach some weight to the bipod.

    But when it comes down to it, a hunting rifle shouldn’t be your bench gun. What I want for hunting with a .308 or .30-06 or whatever isn’t what I want to be sitting there shooting several boxes of ammo with. Maybe my only exception would be my Howa 1500 in 6.5 Grendel. But even there, to make a GREAT bench gun, I would want a stock designed for Ben great shooting and heavier than it is. Even if at just under 8lbs with scope it works very well on a bench and the recoil is mild enough to sit and shoot 100+ rounds no worries. Even without a bipod or brake/suppressor on it.

    If I wanted an all day .308, 6.5 creedmor, .270, .30-06, etc. I’d be looking at a rifle with a purpose built stock for that, a heavy barrel and probably a heavy optic tipping the scales at >10lbs and not something I’d ever want to lug in to the field.

    My Sako Forester in .308 is just over 8lbs. Though it’s old, the recoil pad is nice and squishy still. It starts to be annoying after 20 rounds from the bench and starts to suck by 40. If ever I have a range session where I think I’ll shoot more than about 20 rounds I either do that with winter clothing on in the appropriate season or slip on a shoulder recoil pad.

    My AR-10 also can start getting rough once you climb up there in round count. 18” fluted HBAR. 9lbs with scope. Adjustable gas system tuned low. Two boxes of ammo in and your shoulder let’s you know you’ve been a bad boy. 3-4 and your shoulder (well mine) is going to be sore the next day. Standing or sitting and it’s fine till much higher round counts. I haven’t shot it with a can yet. But I suspect that’ll tame it significantly more.

    But, if I wanted it to be a bench gun I’d have gone with a bench stock and not a minimalist. That right there would make a huge difference between probably 6-8oz more, thicker recoil pad and a better cheek weld. A 20-24” heavy barrel without fluting would also be an enormous change.

    I’ve got designs on a 300WSM at some point as probably my heaviest gun for it I ever get out west to hunt. I’d like to be able to shoot it from the bench occasionally and not hate myself or the gun. Threaded, suppressor and bipod are my plans for bench shooting. If needed shoulder recoil pad also. Probably won’t shoot more than 30-40 rounds in any sitting even with that.

    I do have a bipod on order.
     

    wb3jma

    Active Member
    Nov 15, 2020
    533
    Belcamp, MD Harford County
    You have a lot of experience with rifles? Sure it's not a technique issue? .270 shouldn't put out that much of a thump. Hunting rifles are meant to be easily carried. +1 for picking up a heavier bench rest style rifle if that's the intended application.

    With any high powered rifle shooting over a bullet over 100 grains and able to push it over 3000 ft/s? Not really so technique prollly needs refinement but no it's for hunting not bench shooting but still need to be reasonably accurate and but in a certain amount of practice with it.
     

    E.Shell

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 5, 2007
    10,306
    Mid-Merlind
    ...I use a Past recoil reducer pad, the kind you wear on your shoulder. I have no problem with recoil sensitivity....
    I have several PAST pads in two different styles and have had dozens of students use them with excellent results.

    One very big part of recoil management is pulling the rifle tight back against your shoulder with your shooting hand, so both you and the gun recoil together and work as unit. Recoil discomfort is at the interface, and if a moving/recoiling rifle suddenly contacts a non-moving shoulder, it will hurt where contact is made. Pulling straight back firmly also assists with a good trigger press, due to the sympathetic motion in the shooting hand.

    Stock fit is another source of discomfort under recoil. Most stocks are way too low for effective use on a scoped rifle. If your head is floating above the stock and you do not have a firm cheekweld, the rifle develops much more rearward force. If your head is firmly on the stock, its mass is added to the recoil equation, just like your upper torso weight is added when you have very firm buttstock<>shoulder contact. Do not mistake contact with the side of the chin for a real cheekweld, it's not.

    With regard to adding weight, I have always used birdshot mixed with epoxy and pressed into the forend cavities and the buttstock bore.


    ETA: if your rifle stock does not allow you to close your eyes, place your head in shooting position, open your shooting eye and see a full field of view, your stock simply does NOT fit. You are losing speed and precision, and experiencing more recoil than necessary.
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    So now that ammo is coming slowly back I went and started shooting my guns including the Mossberg Patriot in 270 Win. I found that after 50 rounds I was getting flinch considerable flinch. I'm looking to weigh the gun down, besides the scope I already have I'm going to add a bipod to it. I also noticed when I but a Limbsaver pad on it the the rear pf the stock is hollow. I figured a little more weight would tame it easier than than going to the trouble of threading the barrel and adding a compensator/brake to it.

    So what might be best used in that hollow compartment? Also if I'm still not happy I think I might be swap the gun instead for another caliber like 7mm-08 or 6.5 Creedmoor. Which would you choose I might want to shoot game bigger than deer but not often.

    Instead of figuring out work arounds one of the best ways to manage recoil is to just simply focus on marksmanship skills and fundamentals.
    Often when you focus on mounting the gun consistently, breathing and trigger control, your hold-follow through etc. your flinch or trigger jerk will be gone and instead of focusing on harsh recoil and jump you'll be calling your shot instead of the first thought entering your mind is dam this gun kicks. You wont even notice it.
    Theirs a reason a good coach/ instructor or shooting partner will agree with that its easier to teach a novice or beginning shooter than someone who has had the opportunity to develop bad habits over time.
    Keep in mind even with a 22 all of the things above come into play before the bullet has even quit the end of the barrel and are elemental to final on target performance.
    Make 10 good shots utilizing basic fundamentals consistently instead of 50 bad ones you wont be as likely to become fatigued and I bet you get better overall results and not beat up. I suspect one of those patriot rifles is a good shooter and overall hunting piece.
    Good luck hunting this year.
     

    gtodave

    Member
    MDS Supporter
    Aug 14, 2007
    14,366
    Mt Airy
    I have several PAST pads in two different styles and have had dozens of students use them with excellent results.

    One very big part of recoil management is pulling the rifle tight back against your shoulder with your shooting hand, so both you and the gun recoil together and work as unit. Recoil discomfort is at the interface, and if a moving/recoiling rifle suddenly contacts a non-moving shoulder, it will hurt where contact is made. Pulling straight back firmly also assists with a good trigger press, due to the sympathetic motion in the shooting hand.

    Stock fit is another source of discomfort under recoil. Most stocks are way too low for effective use on a scoped rifle. If your head is floating above the stock and you do not have a firm cheekweld, the rifle develops much more rearward force. If your head is firmly on the stock, its mass is added to the recoil equation, just like your upper torso weight is added when you have very firm buttstock<>shoulder contact. Do not mistake contact with the side of the chin for a real cheekweld, it's not.

    With regard to adding weight, I have always used birdshot mixed with epoxy and pressed into the forend cavities and the buttstock bore.


    ETA: if your rifle stock does not allow you to close your eyes, place your head in shooting position, open your shooting eye and see a full field of view, your stock simply does NOT fit. You are losing speed and precision, and experiencing more recoil than necessary.
    Listen to this man :thumbsup:
     

    PaFrank

    Member
    Apr 2, 2020
    75
    Acraglas works great, (not the gel formula, the original) All you need to do is mix in a good handful of shot if you need extra weight..

    Another thing you might consider is installing a recoil reducer. I'm not sure how you would do that in a hollow stock, but i installed one in my 375 and it tamed it down considerably.
     

    GunBum

    Active Member
    Feb 21, 2018
    751
    SW Missouri
    Acraglas works great, (not the gel formula, the original) All you need to do is mix in a good handful of shot if you need extra weight..

    Another thing you might consider is installing a recoil reducer. I'm not sure how you would do that in a hollow stock, but i installed one in my 375 and it tamed it down considerably.

    Mercury filled recoil reducers are magic. On my .300 RUM, I have one in the forend under the barrel and one in the butt. Prior to them, it was painful to shoot. Now just slightly uncomfortable. A PAST recoil shield solves the remaining problem on the range. In the field, I don’t notice the recoil.
     

    Harrys

    Short Round
    Jul 12, 2014
    3,419
    SOMD
    Adding weight to your rifle to include a scope, a sling, and spare cartridges can help. I have seen guys add a lead shaft with a spring to absorbed the recoil and seems to work really well. A friend in Maine did this to his Marlin 45/70 as he shoots 500 grain shells for moose and greatly reduced his recoil. The only thing I did was add a recoil pad, and a leather stock bullet scabbard holding 5 shells. Worked really well, remember more weight equals heavier humping in the woods.
    My 2 cents
     

    Users who are viewing this thread

    Forum statistics

    Threads
    275,382
    Messages
    7,279,463
    Members
    33,442
    Latest member
    PotomacRiver

    Latest threads

    Top Bottom