JettaRed
Ultimate Member
I'm looking for a manual that will help you problem solve your reloads, such as FTF, FTE, etc. Thanks.
I am shooting a GLOCK G19 Gen4.
I am shooting a GLOCK G19 Gen4.
Last edited:
Best handgun reloading manual?
- Thread starter JettaRed
- Start date
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stu929
M1 Addict
No sure about manuals for those failures but from the manuals ive seen or have I would say lee or Lyman are the better choices.
Most of the time failure to eject is either a bad ejector or be on under powered.
Good luck!
As a beginning reloader both of the books Stu mentioned should be in your arsenal. Richard Lees and Lymans Reloading Manuals are long time must haves for everybody that reloads. I a lot cases a FTF with a newbe reloader is going to be a primer that is not seated correctly or a flash hole that has media in it. There is only a few reasons for a FTF. And that's providing there is nothing wrong with the firearm / Primers misshandled,,, ect.ect. ect..
FTE could be as simple as to low of a powder charge, Incorrect charge, Wrong powder.ect..ect..ect.
Read and ask questions... Lots of questions. There is lots of guys here with lots of experience that will be glad to help you.
FTE could be as simple as to low of a powder charge, Incorrect charge, Wrong powder.ect..ect..ect.
Read and ask questions... Lots of questions. There is lots of guys here with lots of experience that will be glad to help you.
kalister1
R.I.P.
For FTF get yourself a "CASE GAGE" or whatever it's called?
It is a precision machined piece of steel that is the correct diameter for the cartridge you are checking. If the cartridge drops in and fits (Not too long, Flush primer) it SHOULD chamber in ANY firearm of that caliber.
For my 40 S&W I bought an UNDER SIZE (- .001") sizing die and that cured all my FTF problems.
It is a precision machined piece of steel that is the correct diameter for the cartridge you are checking. If the cartridge drops in and fits (Not too long, Flush primer) it SHOULD chamber in ANY firearm of that caliber.
For my 40 S&W I bought an UNDER SIZE (- .001") sizing die and that cured all my FTF problems.
A correctly seated primer is not flush sir, A correctly seated primer is a seated a few thousands ' DEEPER ' than flush. You need to seat the anvil and arm the primer.
It is most likely one of the problems the OP is having already.
kalister1
R.I.P.
Flush will NOT prevent chambering of the round, will it?
An under seated primer could prevent the firearm from going in to battery. (closing fully)
As cooper said, it should be slightly recessed (below flush)
If it is not seated, it may take two hits to fire. The first could seat it the rest of the way, the second could fire it.
I always wait 60 seconds pointing the firearm down range on an FTF, then try to fire it again. I rarely get FTFs these days.
Lee and Lyman are great starters. Those are the two I would have, if I could only have two. The Hornady and Speer have some rarely seen data.
Pulling the barrel out of a semi auto, and making sure the reloaded round falls in and out by gravity alone, is a poor mans case gauge.
I have one of these, and find it useful:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/74...dge-gage-9mm-luger-38-super-40-s-and-w-45-acp
As cooper said, it should be slightly recessed (below flush)
If it is not seated, it may take two hits to fire. The first could seat it the rest of the way, the second could fire it.
I always wait 60 seconds pointing the firearm down range on an FTF, then try to fire it again. I rarely get FTFs these days.
Lee and Lyman are great starters. Those are the two I would have, if I could only have two. The Hornady and Speer have some rarely seen data.
Pulling the barrel out of a semi auto, and making sure the reloaded round falls in and out by gravity alone, is a poor mans case gauge.
I have one of these, and find it useful:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/74...dge-gage-9mm-luger-38-super-40-s-and-w-45-acp
Are you telling me, Or asking a question ?
I would think that if a primer was sticking out far enough it could cause a failure to chamber.
I don't really know.
What I was talking about was a failure to fire, And that is one of the issues the OP is having.
kalister1
R.I.P.
I took FTF as Failure to FEED, FTE as failure to extract.
The primer should be fully seated in the hole.
If it is not, it will depend on how much energy the firing exerts on the primer.
I agree that the anvil needs to upset to ignite, it will depend on the firing pin energy if a primer that is NOT seated will ignite or not.
It depends on the exact dimensions of the primer and the primer pocket of the cartridge to determine if the fully seated primer will be proud, flush or below flush.
The primer should be fully seated in the hole.
If it is not, it will depend on how much energy the firing exerts on the primer.
I agree that the anvil needs to upset to ignite, it will depend on the firing pin energy if a primer that is NOT seated will ignite or not.
It depends on the exact dimensions of the primer and the primer pocket of the cartridge to determine if the fully seated primer will be proud, flush or below flush.
Again, Correctly seated primers will never be flush or proud. If you mix a selfloading firearm and proud seated primers you could easily end up with a slam fire , Out of battery discharge or other unnecessary discharge of the firearm.
The reason for primers to be seated BELOW the base of the cartridge is so the bolt hits the brass case when loading a cartridge in the chamber and not the primer.
Maybe you sir need to go and read the basic books in reloading. This sport has enough people that toss out knowledge that is not correct and unknowning others could easily get injured with the information that was given to them.
kalister1
R.I.P.
And you would have a rookie reloader continue to try to force a primer into the case after it bottoms out. If it is flush, no energy will pass on to the primer cup to upset the anvil.
Slam fires are extremly rare, to the point of reloading metalic and shotshells for over 30 years and having never seen one with all my flush primers that I shoot.
Slam fires are extremly rare, to the point of reloading metalic and shotshells for over 30 years and having never seen one with all my flush primers that I shoot.
Sorry dude. You are giving out dangerous information. The reloading manuals are consistent and clear. It should not be flush, but slightly below. Cooper is spot on.
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-education/reloading-beginners/primer-seating-depth
boricuamaximus
Ultimate Member
- Dec 27, 2008
- 6,237
I have read by very knowledgeable members of this forum:
Get three book: Lyman, Speer, Hornady.
Read them.
Compare loads in between and fine tune your own.
Has worked great for me.
Get three book: Lyman, Speer, Hornady.
Read them.
Compare loads in between and fine tune your own.
Has worked great for me.
kalister1
R.I.P.
Please take the time to read your own post again.
"IF the primer is ABOVE FLUSH"
So that means IF IT IS FLUSH leave it alone. DUDE!
Do what you want, but don't get new reloaders in to trouble with wrong information.
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-education/reloading-beginners/primer-seating-depth
JettaRed
Ultimate Member
Thanks! My suspicions also. I was firing from a GLOCK G19 Gen4. The primers were mis-seated (not fully seated). Wondering if the slide wasn't in full battery and the firing pin safety actually worked.
JettaRed
Ultimate Member
Yeah, my primers that FTF were seated taller than the case (protruded).
JettaRed
Ultimate Member
Good stuff here! You all have provided extremely useful info. This should be a sticky!
I often find it funny and interesting that you can show some.' know it all's ' all the manufacters information you want and they still know more than the people that make it.
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