Enfield question:

tallen702 · May 19, 2020

I've looked at all the usual suspects on the first two pages of Google results, but can't seem to find a definitive answer for this one.

My replacement ejector screw came in today for my No.4 Mk.1* project. It threads into the receiver just fine, but if screwed all the way in, it prevents the bolt from being able to move forward as it is about 1 thread too long. I saw some mention on one site about having to custom fit the screw when replacing it (assuming it means cut it down) but otherwise i'm not seeing much. I know it's not needed to eject spent brass, only live rounds, but I want everything to be correct. Anyone have any answers on if cutting is necessary? Or am I missing something?

Doco Overboard · May 19, 2020

So, the end of the screw where it protrudes through the body wall should be reduced in diameter and have an hourglass shape.
It’s constructed like it’s meant to be easilyadjusted. Most of the time they are slightly mashed or peened over from use.
I would just carefully reduce its length with a small file or stone.
It could be also that the ejector screw you received is for a 2 A and just a touch longer than what you need.
Like you already found out, the screw just helps to tip the case off the body.

tallen702 · May 19, 2020

Doco Overboard said:
So, the end of the screw where it protrudes through the body wall should be reduced in diameter and have an hourglass shape.
It’s constructed like it’s meant to be easilyadjusted. Most of the time they are slightly mashed or peened over from use.
I would just carefully reduce its length with a small file or stone.
It could be also that the ejector screw you received is for a 2 A and just a touch longer than what you need.
Like you already found out, the screw just helps to tip the case off the body.

There wasn't really any shape, which makes me think that APEX has them mislabeled, or sent me a 2A screw. I see what you mean about the taper with the pictures from SARCO. I'll order one from SARCO later, for now, I just filed down the very tip of the screw and it works fine.

Apex also sent me a frikken offset No.1 Mk.III sling swivel when it's clearly listed as a No.4 swivel on the invoice. Getting ready to tell them to ship the correct parts. That said, they DID have Savage marked parts I needed and they came in as expected, so I've got that going for me.

Doco Overboard · May 19, 2020

I just went and looked at a couple Savage no 4's. The ejector screw sticks out approximately 2 1/2 threads and has about 20-35 thou clearance between the bolt head and ejector screw with the bolt withdrawn right next to it.
It could also be that the screw you received is for the firing pin lock at the rear of the cocking piece. That one is a little longer but not by much than the ejector screw. The diameter and shape is also slightly different.
The hourglass or wedge shaped protrusion at the end of the E screw is made for the case rim to work against as the body side wall starts to tilt the case right.
But gets mashed up and worn with use. Some times they are not even there or purposefully omitted on target rifles.
The pins for the lower fore-end cap are also the same diameter as the trigger pin. Because they get bent or worn the old cap pins make a correct replacement once cut to the right length or trimmed down.

tallen702 · May 19, 2020

Doco Overboard said:
I just went and looked at a couple Savage no 4's. The ejector screw sticks out approximately 2 1/2 threads and has about 20-35 thou clearance between the bolt head and ejector screw with the bolt withdrawn right next to it.
It could also be that the screw you received is for the firing pin lock at the rear of the cocking piece. That one is a little longer but not by much than the ejector screw. The diameter and shape is also slightly different.
The hourglass or wedge shaped protrusion at the end of the E screw is made for the case rim to work against as the body side wall starts to tilt the case right.
But gets mashed up and worn with use. Some times they are not even there or purposefully omitted on target rifles.
The pins for the lower fore-end cap are also the same diameter as the trigger pin. Because they get bent or worn the old cap pins make a correct replacement once cut to the right length or trimmed down.

I have a firing pin lock screw coming in on Friday from BRP. I'll compare the two when it comes. I contacted APEX via email but don't expect a response until at least tomorrow. The screw they sent is most definitely not the right one. $3 is all it costs, but still, it's frustrating especially when coupled with the sling swivel mess up on their part.

Good news is that the nose band and both upper guards were all in decent shape and properly square-S marked for Savage. Savage mid band and butt swivel are coming from Liberty Tree. I'll snag a Savage bayo with frog next pay period to complete everything. Only gripe is that the new old stock rear handguard is darker than the NOS forearms and used VG front guard. I think it's either a much darker piece of beech, or more likely walnut. Not so dark that it looks odd, but not perfect either. Still, the savage mark is more important on this particular project.

Apparently the rear trigger guard screw and the sight protector screw are the same thread pitch and length as well. BRP has them listed as the same screw.

Anyway, thanks for the help! I'll post pictures once I've got her all patched back up and together.

303_enfield · May 28, 2020

Apex sent you a NOS screw. It has to be fitted, two minutes or less with a file.
Go slow! It's a pain to put metal back on.

Good luck!

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