Need some help identifying the value of these guns

rouchna · Jul 2, 2020

A friend of mine just inherited some guns. He brought them over to my house so I can help him clean them and show him how to take them apart. He is not a “gun guy” but wants to keep most of them. I’m familiar with the 1911s and the S&W revolvers. Everything else like the Nambus, P38s etc, are not my forte.

Any help is highly appreciated. If you need additional pics, let me know.

Thank you.

TheOriginalMexicanBob · Jul 2, 2020

The only ones I am comfortable making an educated guess are the Browning Baby...the Colt Commander, S&W 66 and the Ithaca 1911A1. The Browning is worth maybe $175-$200. The Colt Commander is brushed nickel...a fairly uncommon option from the late '70s or early '80s. I can't tell fit's a Lightweight Commander or a steel framed Combat Commander. I'd value it at $700-$800...maybe a bit more. The Ithaca 1911A1 has been refinished and there's no way of telling if it's all Ithaca or a mixmaster of parts. It's probably in the $600-$800 range. The S&W is desirable and depends on what exact model and when it was made but I'd say it's worth in the $650-$750 dollar range.

All that is based solely on the photos shown...condition is everything and could raise or lower those estimates.

rouchna · Jul 2, 2020

TheOriginalMexicanBob said:
The only ones I am comfortable making an educated guess are the Browning Baby...the Colt Commander and the Ithaca 1911A1. The Browning is worth maybe $175-$200. The Colt Commander is brushed nickel...a fairly uncommon option from the late '70s or early '80s. I can't tell fit's a Lightweight Commander or a steel framed Combat Commander. I'd value it at $700-$800...maybe a bit more. The Ithaca 1911A1 has been refinished and there's no way of telling if it's all Ithaca or a mixmaster of parts. It's probably in the $600-$800 range.

All that is based solely on the photos shown...condition is everything and could raise or lower those estimates.

Thank you for your insight. Dumb question: How do you know the Ithaca has been refinished?

TheOriginalMexicanBob · Jul 2, 2020

It's at least been polished if not refinished. It was originally a dull blue (Du-Lite) or possibly Parkerized depending on the process they used. The markings are also very clearly polished off or nearly so. The "FJA" Army inspector's initials are almost gone...they would be very distinct if original. The Ithaca markings are very soft rather than distinct from being polished.

teratos · Jul 2, 2020

rouchna · Jul 2, 2020

TheOriginalMexicanBob said:
It's at least been polished if not refinished. It was originally a dull blue (Du-Lite) or possibly Parkerized depending on the process they used. The markings are also very clearly polished off or nearly so. The "FJA" Army inspector's initials are almost gone...they would be very distinct if original. The Ithaca markings are very soft rather than distinct from being polished.

Thank you sir. I’m going to get the nice camera out and take better pictures. The phone doesn’t do these justice.

outrider58 · Jul 2, 2020

teratos said:
.

Fo fiddy!

rouchna · Jul 2, 2020

teratos said:
.

outrider58 said:
Fo fiddy!

I didn’t think the smart ass responses would come this quickly. :lol2:

Alea Jacta Est · Jul 2, 2020

rouchna said:
I didn’t think the smart ass responses would come this quickly.

You grossly underestimated the crew. Besides being ignorant and poorly dressed, they’re bored.

Standby.

ToolAA · Jul 2, 2020

rouchna said:
I didn’t think the smart ass responses would come this quickly.

I’m surprised it took as long as it did.
It’s a holiday weekend. Smart asses need time off too.

teratos · Jul 2, 2020

Nnztg8r said:
You grossly underestimated the crew. Besides being ignorant and poorly dressed, they’re bored.

Standby.

I have a finger up my nose to the second knuckle. I also have had a few glasses of wine.

Alea Jacta Est · Jul 2, 2020

teratos said:
I have a finger up my nose to the second knuckle. I also have had a few glasses of wine.

Don’t take so much out that yer head caves in Doc...

PICK A WINNER.

Ya know what they give Academy graduates them big rings??? So they can’t hurt themselves when they pick they nose.

Matlack · Jul 2, 2020

I wish I could get an inheritance like that.

rouchna · Jul 2, 2020

ToolAA said:
I’m surprised it took as long as it did.
It’s a holiday weekend. Smart asses need time off too.

True.

Matlack said:
I wish I could get an inheritance like that.

You and me both. :sad20:

Threeband · Jul 2, 2020

The overpolishing on that poor Ithaca jumped right out at me. Somebody really destroyed most of its value.

I'd be curious to see more of the P38s.

outrider58 · Jul 2, 2020

Tree fiddy!

somd_mustangs · Jul 2, 2020

The top P.38 is an early Walther ac43, bottom one looks like a mid-year Walther ac44 with the plum frame, both look like original finish and grips.
Value somewhere in the $800 range if frame, slide, barrel and lock block match and no import marks.
Looks like there is some wear etc.

Field strip is pretty easy but you can booger it up.
Taking it all the way down is pretty easy too but more info than is easily conveyed here.

Field strip:
- ensure it's unloaded, leave magazine in the gun
- cock the hammer
- pull slide back to lock it
- remove magazine
- rotate the takedown lever forward (it has a detent) at left front frame
- set the safety lever down (so it will decock)
- grip the slide and release the slide stop
- ride the slide forward and the hammer will drop (personally I don't set the safety and do this part by hand)
- slide and barrel will come off as a unit
- push the pin at back of barrel which pushes the lock block up
- slide barrel out

Verify the bottom of lock block has the last 3 numbers of the S/N and the S/N letter suffix stamped on the bottom.

Assembly is in reverse, but make sure the ejector lever is down in the frame first, and the lock block is pushed up into the slide.

Be very careful with the grips, they are fragile. Only finger-tighten them.
The plum finish on the frame is also very fragile, I would only wipe with soft cloth and oil, no chemicals.

Honestly I wouldn't mess with the Nambu Type 14's as they can be a PITA to take apart (and put back together) esp the safety which is easy to break.
I've never messed with a "Baby" Nambu but I'd leave that alone too and just give it some oily external love.

somd_mustangs · Jul 2, 2020

Oh yeah, unless you've done it before I wouldn't take the top cover off the P.38's.
Pretty easy to bend/crack them (been there, done that much to my shame).
And they can be tricky to get back on properly.

rouchna · Jul 2, 2020

somd_mustangs said:
The top P.38 is an early Walther ac43, bottom one looks like a mid-year Walther ac44 with the plum frame, both look like original finish and grips.
Value somewhere in the $800 range if frame, slide, barrel and lock block match and no import marks.
Looks like there is some wear etc.

Field strip is pretty easy but you can booger it up.
Taking it all the way down is pretty easy too but more info than is easily conveyed here.

Field strip:
- ensure it's unloaded, leave magazine in the gun
- cock the hammer
- pull slide back to lock it
- remove magazine
- rotate the takedown lever forward (it has a detent) at left front frame
- set the safety lever down (so it will decock)
- grip the slide and release the slide stop
- ride the slide forward and the hammer will drop (personally I don't set the safety and do this part by hand)
- slide and barrel will come off as a unit
- push the pin at back of barrel which pushes the lock block up
- slide barrel out

Verify the bottom of lock block has the last 3 numbers of the S/N and the S/N letter suffix stamped on the bottom.

Assembly is in reverse, but make sure the ejector lever is down in the frame first, and the lock block is pushed up into the slide.

Be very careful with the grips, they are fragile. Only finger-tighten them.
The plum finish on the frame is also very fragile, I would only wipe with soft cloth and oil, no chemicals.

Honestly I wouldn't mess with the Nambu Type 14's as they can be a PITA to take apart (and put back together) esp the safety which is easy to break.
I've never messed with a "Baby" Nambu but I'd leave that alone too and just give it some oily external love.

Thank you!! I was actually going to make an offer on one of the P38s as I’ve always wanted one.

I will take better pictures of the 1911 tomorrow. For some reason, it seems to be the original finish to me but it wouldn’t be the first time I was wrong.

Ironnewt · Jul 2, 2020

Semi auto with the Browning is a Mauser HSc. Caliber .32 auto. Primarily used as a officers sidearm in the mid 1930's and was often privately purchased. Nice little guns.

Need some help identifying the value of these guns

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