to finish? Drill press good enough?
Poly 80,,, what's needed
- Thread starter THier
- Start date
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No. Hand drill and dremel. They recommend against using a drill press.
whistlersmother
Peace through strength
The pistol frames don't even need that. I think poly80 even recommends against drill press for the pistol frames.
Edit: Ah, the good doctor is quick on the keys...
Edit: Ah, the good doctor is quick on the keys...
The recommendation against the drill press always confused me. I know they don't want you to drill all the way through to the other side but just cause you have a drill press, does not mean you can't control that.
I expect they don't want you to use a drill press cause with a hand drill you can feel it break through the side easier.
They give you a milling bit which you dont even need unless you had a drill press and an xy vise or xy table. Dremmel is still easier.
I expect they don't want you to use a drill press cause with a hand drill you can feel it break through the side easier.
They give you a milling bit which you dont even need unless you had a drill press and an xy vise or xy table. Dremmel is still easier.
I have a mill. I use a dremel.
Cool, thanks! How easy is it to FUBAR it?
Don't dremel too much, read the instructions 2 or 3 times, watch a few videos, and you are good to go. Go slow on your first one, think twice, action once.
Q
StantonCree
Watch your beer
- Jan 23, 2011
- 23,932
Pretty hard on a 17/19. Pretty easy on a 26 if don’t drill the holes first
In addition to not drilling all the way through, I suspect the advice against using a drill press is to ensure precise locations of the holes. Using a hand drill, the bit just naturally finds its way into the hole in the jig. If you have it clamped to your drill press and are off by a few hairs, the bit may stay true to the press and, rather than follow the jig (that is plastic), just cut those few hairs out of the jig and put the hole slightly in the wrong place.
People do seem to really really want to use their drill press though
People do seem to really really want to use their drill press though
hodgepodge
Senior Member (Gold)
Fret cutter, Dremel with extension, Flitz, and marinegunbuilder videos.
byf43
SCSC Life/NRA Patron Life
Here's what I used:
Cordless handheld drill. (Drill on SLOW speed.)
Box cutter. (Scribed all of the extra material on frame that needed to be cut/milled then removed material with 'nippers'.)
Diagonal cutters. (To cut material in frame for recoil spring assembly.)
Bastard file and Mill file. (To smooth top of frame.)
Dowel rod w/different grades of sandpaper. (To remove material and smooth area for recoil spring assembly.)
320 grit sandpaper and 400 grit sandpaper. (To smooth top of frame.)
Clover #0000 valve lapping compound. (To lap/fit frame rails to slide.)
Cordless handheld drill. (Drill on SLOW speed.)
Box cutter. (Scribed all of the extra material on frame that needed to be cut/milled then removed material with 'nippers'.)
Diagonal cutters. (To cut material in frame for recoil spring assembly.)
Bastard file and Mill file. (To smooth top of frame.)
Dowel rod w/different grades of sandpaper. (To remove material and smooth area for recoil spring assembly.)
320 grit sandpaper and 400 grit sandpaper. (To smooth top of frame.)
Clover #0000 valve lapping compound. (To lap/fit frame rails to slide.)
Muleskinner
Ultimate Member
I've done 14 of these. The ONLY one I had problems with was the one I tried to drill all the way through with a drill press. Luckily it was before POLY80 tightened up their warrantee policy. They replaced it after I proved to them I had cut the first one in half. The drill press shuttered (for lack of a better word) and the hole was slightly too large. I now use a cordless drill with a bubble level built in and haven't had an issue.
rocket1331
Member
- Jul 9, 2014
- 82
So as mentioned, MarineGunBuilder on YouTube has a ton of videos that are pretty helpful on doing this. I did my first build a few days ago, I wanted to pick up a Dremel workstation, but of course everywhere near me did not have it in stock, and I didnt feel like waiting. Figured, plenty of people do it with a drill, and went for it. Well, the shitty drill bit that P80 provides, one broke when I was drilling the final hole, so that sucked. Aside from that, I guess I can't keep a drill straight, since some of my holes seem to be slightly uneven, where the exit on the inside of the frame is slanting a tiny bit. Now I got the locking block and rear rail to line up enough, and the pins do fit, but have to use a punch for sure. Then theres the issue with the front locking block that is absurdly tight on the frame. So I need to sand/grind it down...so maybe I fubar the thing, maybe not, it is fun though lol
gwoodburn
Active Member
Before sanding anything to do with the front locking block, try putting it in the freezer for about an hour. This should shrink the metal just enough to squeeze it in the frame. You may want to try wedging something in the frame as well to widen the plastic just a bit while you try to get it in, I actually use a Sharpie. Once you get it started, you can use a mallet to hammer it in the rest of the way.
Dremel workstation is the way to go on P80s. Marinegunbuilder has a new video up showing how to do it. I've done a few frames and the last one i did without the workstation, the crap bits walked on me for the rear frame pin
P80 was going to sell me a second chance frame for $99, but I had to destroy my current frame. I filled the holes with JBweld, which matches the tactical gray frame perfectly btw, and redrilled with the workstation. Should be all good now. We'll see how long it lasts. Once all the panic buying ends, I'm sure I'll pick up another frame to replace it.My 19 P80 locking block was obsurdly wide. I first did the trick where you freeze it and then stick a hex driver into the frame to widen it. The trouble is that the frame is wider and the wider gap creates a space for the slide lock spring to slip down into. This made it so the slide lock spring would not push the slide lock back down. This will cause unwanted instances of the slide locking back on its own when firing.
I have a belt sander and I sanded each side and straighten it until I could slip the block into it while still being a tad snug. This made it so the gap was not there and the slide lock spring did not slip into the gap.
There is probably some variation between front blocks to the point where some are fine and others are way too wide.
I have a belt sander and I sanded each side and straighten it until I could slip the block into it while still being a tad snug. This made it so the gap was not there and the slide lock spring did not slip into the gap.
There is probably some variation between front blocks to the point where some are fine and others are way too wide.
Tungsten
Ultimate Member
Nips
Hand Files (flat and round)
Dremel
Sandpaper
Marinebuilder is good but I'm not sure you need 6 hours of videos to build one. I'd watch 3 or 4 of the quick builds that other people have put on youtube. Watch marinebuilder is you want it absolutely stinking perfect.
Hand Files (flat and round)
Dremel
Sandpaper
Marinebuilder is good but I'm not sure you need 6 hours of videos to build one. I'd watch 3 or 4 of the quick builds that other people have put on youtube. Watch marinebuilder is you want it absolutely stinking perfect.
robmints
Ultimate Member
- Jan 20, 2011
- 5,112
Gst 9 on 5d? Any input on it? I’m totally new.
Muleskinner
Ultimate Member
They are only in pre-order right now. They were supposed to be released and available by now but because of the virus that's kind of in limbo. It looks like it will be a great alternative to the poly 80 but we won't know until we try them. I may get one.
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