Generator for well pump and septic?

Robert2888 said:

As long as you are intelligent enough to always remember to turn the main off first, a run of 8/4 Romex with male cord caps on both ends, will work if cheap is the route that you wanna take. One end to match the 240 plug on one end and the other to match your dryer receptacle.

Click to expand...

No. Just no.

Johnny5k said:

Nothing wrong that I have heard with a Wadsworth Panel, besides being dated. Sounds like you had a split bus panel with no main disconnect. See them all the time. Still works, still meets code as far as i know. Maybe had other things wrong with it. Surely better than a Stab-lok

He didnt get a transfer switch. He said he got a new panel and new meter base, and an interlock installed. Sounds like a decent price for that work.

I have still never seen an interlock in the wild, but then, Its been a few years since I did paid home inspections, and I have a generac automatic switchgear lying around here somewhere if I ever decide to wire up the generator I have.

I shy away from talking about suicide cords in this context, for obvious reasons.

Click to expand...

Here's what mine looked like.

I know I'm doing it ALL wrong but as long as I don't forget I get juice to the entire house. No xfer switch I don't think but I do have a 220V (maybe 240) pigtail outside under wraparound deck. Trip main breaker, fire up 9000 watt generator, plug in pigtail to jenny, flip switch and I have juice for everything if I don't go crazy stupid. Well, lights, 3 fridges and freezers, ac, heat ect.
Reverse operation when I see lights across the river in summertime houses.

Xfer switches installed are expensive......... no?

brownspotz said:

if you had a proper switch gear installed there's no need to turn off branch circuits and main breaker. you got jacked.
normal switch gear have line generator and off breaker positions. and are set up so you can't backfeed.

Click to expand...

INTERLOCK and switch gear are two different things... I have an interlock style setup and it works great. My generator is not large enough to run everything at once so I use the panel to ration out where the juice is flowing.

Johnny5k said:

Nothing wrong that I have heard with a Wadsworth Panel, besides being dated. Sounds like you had a split bus panel with no main disconnect. See them all the time. Still works, still meets code as far as i know. Maybe had other things wrong with it. Surely better than a Stab-lok

Click to expand...

Split bus, no room left in it, most of the single pole breakers were already a tandem and those are NS1, regular replacement wadsworth breakers are $$$$ and not easily sourced without ordering. Wiring in the panel was a rats nest ect. Anyone who was associated with those FPE panels should have been put in front of the firing squad, absolute garbage.

Robert2888 said:

As long as you are intelligent enough to always remember to turn the main off first, a run of 8/4 Romex with male cord caps on both ends, will work if cheap is the route that you wanna take. One end to match the 240 plug on one end and the other to match your dryer receptacle.

Click to expand...

Alan3413 said:

No. Just no.

Click to expand...

We used the neighbor's set up like this for when the basement flooded and we needed to back feed the house for a hot minute to use some hardwired things.

It was the most careful I've been in a long time. Very focused.

As long as you do every single thing right, with not a single slip up, it works in a pinch.

The funny thing is that for all intents and purposes, the interlock with the external connect for the generator feed is essentially a legal and safe version of this setup.

It just can't kill you with the live powered male plug like the suicide cord can.

When in doubt, pay the man.

Years ago I had a mechanical transfer switch set up. It is basically a sub panel that accepts a feed from either the main power or a generator but won't allow both on at once. I just have the well, the sump pump, the refrigerator circuit and a utility circuit on it. The only 240 circuit on that box is the well. I can make use of a Troy Bolt 3250 / 5250 generator. It has a 240 twist connect. It works fine and has enough capacity to run those circuits which is all I need in an emergency. I have used that thing a number of times over the last 24 or 25 years when I had power outages that lasted days. Floyd, Isabelle and Irene and Sandy all knocked out my power for periods of 2 to 5 days.
I have also been out during larger snowstorms for 10 hours or more including 2 stretches of 5 days including one when a heavy snow knocked down a huge tree which fell across the power lines and pulled down a telephone / electric pole with it. We couldn't even drive out of our area of the neighborhood during much of that time as the road was blocked by the tree, the pole and downed lines. 3 days after that snowfall, when roads were opened elsewhere, I had a friend meet me beyond the blocked road so I could refill my 5 gal gas can and my kerosene can. Fortunately, I wasn't dependent on the Genny for heat. I could keep my split foyer reasonably warm with my fireplace insert hearth stove. I had to lend a neighbor a kerosene heater so their house didn't freeze and another neighbor used my inverter generator I have for camping to run a couple space heaters. They weren't warm, but the house didn't freeze. And I could run my well to provide others water in 5 gal buckets to use their toilets. I love my neighborhood, but not the power outages and limited road access we have.

The nice thing about using a smaller generator is it sips gas when not under heavy load as compared to a much larger unit. It's also a bit easier to move around as it is somewhat lighter. But the few who have whole house generators obviously had an easier go of things than I did.

Norton said:

We used the neighbor's set up like this for when the basement flooded and we needed to back feed the house for a hot minute to use some hardwired things.

It was the most careful I've been in a long time. Very focused.

As long as you do every single thing right, with not a single slip up, it works in a pinch.

The funny thing is that for all intents and purposes, the interlock with the external connect for the generator feed is essentially a legal and safe version of this setup.

It just can't kill you with the live powered male plug like the suicide cord can.

Click to expand...

As a master electrician, I probably take the safety aspect for granted, it’s a everyday thing in this line of work. But after traveling the world and seeing the “quality craftsmanship” in other countries, it brings a whole new perspective into what works. Obviously this set up isn’t ideal or technically correct, but again it is the cheapest and easiest way to make it work. For the record, myself and my crew have installed 3 1meg generators into paralleling switch gear with full load shedding to feed 27 independent transfer switches into a full size hospital while in operation. Without any interruptions, is the most important part.

I feel that its not necessarily the transfer switch but can your well pump tolerate the unclean power of the generator.
I recently switched from a single speed pump to a variable speed pump. Well guy is supposed to get back to me on if I can run it from a generator.
I don't have a tank so to speak so when the power goes out, I don't have ANY reserve. When they were doing the work, I had big 5 gallon water cooler jugs I had pre filled to utilize the toilets.
Luckily, I have a pool to pull water from. I'm still hoping I can run my well from the generator though.

I did the transfer switch in my hold house. Not that hard if you know your way around home electrical stuff. If your skittish about this sort of thing, call a pro.
I have not bothered in the new place. The very few times I lost power, I just dealt with it and the time it was more than 8 hours, I just kept the freezers and fridge running and dealt with it. I sort of like it when we have no power and the family gets together to play board games/cards under candle light.

sxs said:

Years ago I had a mechanical transfer switch set up. It is basically a sub panel that accepts a feed from either the main power or a generator but won't allow both on at once. I just have the well, the sump pump, the refrigerator circuit and a utility circuit on it. The only 240 circuit on that box is the well. I can make use of a Troy Bolt 3250 / 5250 generator. It has a 240 twist connect. It works fine and has enough capacity to run those circuits which is all I need in an emergency. I have used that thing a number of times over the last 24 or 25 years when I had power outages that lasted days. Floyd, Isabelle and Irene and Sandy all knocked out my power for periods of 2 to 5 days.
I have also been out during larger snowstorms for 10 hours or more including 2 stretches of 5 days including one when a heavy snow knocked down a huge tree which fell across the power lines and pulled down a telephone / electric pole with it. We couldn't even drive out of our area of the neighborhood during much of that time as the road was blocked by the tree, the pole and downed lines. 3 days after that snowfall, when roads were opened elsewhere, I had a friend meet me beyond the blocked road so I could refill my 5 gal gas can and my kerosene can. Fortunately, I wasn't dependent on the Genny for heat. I could keep my split foyer reasonably warm with my fireplace insert hearth stove. I had to lend a neighbor a kerosene heater so their house didn't freeze and another neighbor used my inverter generator I have for camping to run a couple space heaters. They weren't warm, but the house didn't freeze. And I could run my well to provide others water in 5 gal buckets to use their toilets. I love my neighborhood, but not the power outages and limited road access we have.

The nice thing about using a smaller generator is it sips gas when not under heavy load as compared to a much larger unit. It's also a bit easier to move around as it is somewhat lighter. But the few who have whole house generators obviously had an easier go of things than I did.

Click to expand...

When Snowmageddon hit in 2010, it was 5 miserable days without power and indoor temps in the mid 50's. I vowed never to let that happen again.

Bought a 3.2Kw Subaru Inverter unit and installed a 4-circult transfer switch that covered the furnace, water heater (gas, but has a blower that needs power), aquarium and microwave.

The next outage was a heck of a lot more comfortable, but we still relied on lanterns for light.

Added another 12 circuit transfer switch. Covered furnace, water heater, microwave, aquarium, dishwasher, washing machine, TV, server room, most lights, outlets in all bedrooms, and coffee maker. The little Subie took care of them all, just not all at once.

Since then, Sandy, the unnamed Derecho, the occasional snowstorm and other events that took power out for several days happened. The Genny kept on chugging. It was such a good backup power source that a couple of times, the power came back on without me even realizing it. I always keep a 5gal can of gas ready on normal days. In times like these, I keep all the gas cans filled up just in case. It will last me over a week without having to refill.

Now Wifey keeps bugging me to add the bathroom circuit as well so she can use her hairdryer in an outage.

One thing about gennies. Make sure you keep a jug of motor oil handy. Aircooled engines have a 50-100 hour oil change interval. If you run it 24x7, that means you could be changing the oil every couple of days. I'd spring for the good stuff like Mobile 1.

Norton said:

It just can't kill you with the live powered male plug like the suicide cord can.

Click to expand...

But similar, as long as you plug in the cord in the proper order, you can do it safely.

Or attach the cord with everything off.

But a male connector box is safer.

Pinecone said:

But similar, as long as you plug in the cord in the proper order, you can do it safely.

Or attach the cord with everything off.

But a male connector box is safer.

Click to expand...

t84a said:

Not really. See below. I had an interlock and a suicide cord installed by an electrician at my previous house. I bought a decent generator from Costco.

Click to expand...

With the Interlock, it was impossible for my suicide cord to be hot.

I installed a transfer switch myself. It was a Reliance kit I got from Home Depot and was pretty straightforward. I have a 3,200W generator and run the well pump (220V), sump pump, fridge, upright freezer, chest freezer, TV, kegerator, and a few lights. Seems to work ok for as much as I use it (a few times a year).

6-Pack said:

I installed a transfer switch myself. It was a Reliance kit I got from Home Depot and was pretty straightforward. I have a 3,200W generator and run the well pump (220V), sump pump, fridge, upright freezer, chest freezer, TV, kegerator, and a few lights. Seems to work ok for as much as I use it (a few times a year).

Click to expand...

Looks like you have your priorities covered on the generator. Im glad you did not forget the Kegerator on the back up.

t84a said:

With the Interlock, it was impossible for my suicide cord to be hot.

Click to expand...

Uhh, no.

You could plug it into the generator. Fire up the generator and have a hot male end.

Yes, it would be stupid to do this, but it happens.

Pinecone said:

Uhh, no.

You could plug it into the generator. Fire up the generator and have a hot male end.

Yes, it would be stupid to do this, but it happens.

Click to expand...

My cord was wired to the breaker so no.

When power comes back, does the interlock isolate the cord? Or is that a separate step.

Alan3413 said:

When power comes back, does the interlock isolate the cord? Or is that a separate step.

Click to expand...

The main breaker and the generator circuit can't be active at the same time.

All it is is a safe mechanical solution to the same basic principal as back feeding a dryer circuit with a so-called suicide cord.

That little hunk of metal moves in a way that it only allows the generator circuit to be on if the main is off and then vice versa.

Norton said:

The main breaker and the generator circuit can't be active at the same time.

All it is is a safe mechanical solution to the same basic principal as back feeding a dryer circuit with a so-called suicide cord.

That little hunk of metal moves in a way that it only allows the generator circuit to be on if the main is off and then vice versa.

Click to expand...

Then it's not a suicide cord. It works the same way as a transfer switch. It has the added guarantee of a break-before-make switch, but a good interlock can be designed to ensure that as well.

Not so much when back feeding from the dryer outlet however. It is possible for utility power to be energized the same time as the Genny. There is no mechanical either/or lockout in this case.

My post (#22) shows a picture of the interlock. The input from the generator has its own breaker. Either the breaker for the generator or the main breaker can be on. Not both.