Mountain bike suspension

Would probably look for a cheap suntour takeoff on ebay or a MTB forum that fits and has the correct size/axle dimentions, not really worth any more cost or effort than that. IMO it's not worth it to shell out the money for a decent fork when the rest of the bike is still 90's specs. Much depends on what you are looking to do with it, some features that are nice on a long ride on a paved or dirt "recreational" trail suck on mild trails, and just won't work on harder stuff. Would probably sell the old bike, and pick up something like a Rockhopper if you want a basic MTB for $500ish

haoleboy said:

So what I'm getting here is that it's really not worth the upgrade. I get that i guess, I just wasn't trying to take the bike to the dump.

I guess I'll just ride it for a while and see if I really need the suspension.

thanks for all the replies.

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****If the bike works, just ride it. Having suspension on the front is nice, but if you are just tooling around on a gravel path or the towpath it's probably not worth it, unless it's really bumpy. Just ride the tires at a slightly lower pressure.

Suspension is very helpful off road, for both comfort and control - some courses are so rough that a full suspension (front and rear shocks with lots of travel.. and individual adjustments for pre-load, spring rate, air shock rebound, etc...) become almost essential at faster downhill speeds to help maintain control without almost being literally bounced off the bike. Mountain bike suspension has come a very long way since the first Rock Shox Mag 21's I used to ride many years back. People not into cycling are often a bit shocked (haha!) at how expensive the higher end forks with multiple adjustments and tuning on the fly (Climb, Trail, Downhill settings, etc..) cost. The higher end forks and shocks you find on high end bikes are $750-$2000 or so new, and have lots of tech allowing adjustments for different riders and trail conditions, etc...

It's sort of like trying to explain to a non-gun person why a High Point pistol costs $200 versus say a $5000 Night Hawk Custom 1911, or other high end brand. They are both "guns", and shoot those pointy things that go in the clip thing that terrible people use to kill only the innocent, and uhhh.. the gun show loophole. People not into the activity or sport don't appreciate or understand that really high end quality and performance is rarely ever cheap.

If you're not a gun guy, or a bike guy or whatever, the cost of good tools or products or service may not be as appreciated if it's not your hobby or activity.

I know standards have changed in the last 20 years, but would this one work?

https://www.treefortbikes.com/SR-Su...MIhuvu-OTo6AIVQl8NCh3oDA7VEAQYASABEgLCKfD_BwE

BTW, if you don't want to fiddle with it, how much do you want for the bike as is?

haoleboy said:

So what I'm getting here is that it's really not worth the upgrade. I get that i guess, I just wasn't trying to take the bike to the dump.

I guess I'll just ride it for a while and see if I really need the suspension.

thanks for all the replies.

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Don't add a suspension fork

There is no scenario where it is worth it

If you are riding on pavement you don't want a suspension fork. It will sap power and make it take more energy to ride

If you are riding back country trail that require a suspension for you want a better bike with a fork that is designed for that

And no matter what a suspension fork is going to change the whole geometry of the frame and make it awkward to ride. It was built for a rigid fork and a suspension fork is likely to raise the front of the bike up

Ride it as is. It is the best option.

travistheone said:

i would be willing to bet the work you do on your bike is worth what you pay

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On our group rides you could tell who the pro mechanics were because their bikes were the ones always falling apart.
I did all my own work except for things like head tube facing which required special tools. Building my own wheels was something I really enjoyed and did way better than all of the shops in the area, ime.
Maybe things have changed but the bike mechanics, particularly those with the big egos, from several years ago were perpetual disasters who neither knew nor cared what they were doing.

randyho said:

On our group rides you could tell who the pro mechanics were because their bikes were the ones always falling apart.
I did all my own work except for things like head tube facing which required special tools. Building my own wheels was something I really enjoyed and did way better than all of the shops in the area, ime.
Maybe things have changed but the bike mechanics, particularly those with the big egos, from several years ago were perpetual disasters who neither knew nor cared what they were doing.

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you are so right. the worst person to deal with when working in bike shop is the "i used to work at a shop" same with going out to eat with someone who thinks they are a chef

the old saying goes , the cobblers children have no shoes

same with car mechanics, they are more comfortable with having projects and uncertainty

Just google 26" suspension fork if you want to replace your 26" rigid fork with a 26" suspension fork. Not sure if adding will work. This is just a remove and replace project.

randyho said:

On our group rides you could tell who the pro mechanics were because their bikes were the ones always falling apart.
I did all my own work except for things like head tube facing which required special tools. Building my own wheels was something I really enjoyed and did way better than all of the shops in the area, ime.
Maybe things have changed but the bike mechanics, particularly those with the big egos, from several years ago were perpetual disasters who neither knew nor cared what they were doing.

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I do nearly all of my own maintenance (though I paid a shop to replace my bottom bracket last year because their labor cost less than the tool I didn't have somehow)

I do better work than the shop most times because I care more about my ride than they do. I have 1 bike to fix at a time and I'm not in a rush. The shop has 30 bikes to fix and 30 people who want their bike done yesterday.

I bought a used gravel bike from Bicycle Connection in Towson 2 years ago. I test ride it and it had multiple multiple mechanical problems I pointed out. Disc brakes didn't work and the shifting was sketchy, plus a couple other little things. Their mechanic took a look at it and said he couldn't fix those things. So the manager sold me the bike for half the listed price. I handed him cash and got the bike out before he changed his mind.

I took it home and in 2 hours I had it cleaned ups, had adjusted the disc calipers and cleaned the pads so it stopped on a dime and made a slight adjustment to the derailures so it shifts like butter. Then I realized the mech who had out the test pedals on for my test ride cross threaded the bolt on the crank arm. So I took it back and they offered to fix it or give me some money back. I gladly took the money back and had a competent shop replace that crank arm (again I didn't have the bottom bracket tool)

I find Bicycle Connection in Cockeysville has good mechanics and good service (which is a major upgrade over a couple years ago when they were miserable to deal with)

Lutherville Bikes has one of the best mechanics in the business but their prices are insane and the owner has an attitude (the owner, not the mechs. The mechs are great)

Bicycle Connection in Towson (only Towson) are all very nice and the store has some decent prices and a huge selection of everything but their mechanics are very sub par.

Not too many 11/8" newly manufactured forks out there. Pretty easy job though. Need a hacksaw, file, mallet and a couple of appropriately sized Allen wrenches.

check eBay for used Fox float f100 forks with a 1 1/8" headtube. should be pretty cheap as most everything now runs taper. a RockShox Duke SL would work too

if you are running v-brakes, make sure you get one with v-brake bosses. a conversion to a. disk front is possible but requires a new wheel, fork, and front brake, which would add to the cost

as far as the install, that's easy, except the headset race

This should work
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCK-SHOX-...935799?hash=item2ae1eb87f7:g:hOQAAOSwRiJeTquw

travistheone said:

you are so right. the worst person to deal with when working in bike shop is the "i used to work at a shop" same with going out to eat with someone who thinks they are a chef

the old saying goes , the cobblers children have no shoes

same with car mechanics, they are more comfortable with having projects and uncertainty

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Well, most of the time I pass fancy schmancy bikes on the way up the hill in Patapsco. Carbon fiber is really light to push up the hills of Patapsco, I recommend it. I've passed a fair share I knew a guy who could take any trail in Patapsco uphill with a $300 steel frame single speed.

Biking is mostly what's in your legs. Your average weekend warrior does not need a fancy bike.

I haven't read everyone replies, just skimmed the first page. If I read your post correctly, you are looking to add a suspension fork to a rigid fork. I did this about 10 years ago, it was a fun project, learned a lot. It was very interesting to ride, front end becomes noticable heavier and the steering was much slower. Head angle is very important. Ended up building a 26'er frame up based on all used parts and frame was meant for a front shock, correct head angle. Then built my son a 26er initially with 24" wheels and short crank arms with the intention to put 26" wheels and larger crank arms as he grew. After a year, he was ready for the larger wheels. Then started 29er project, handed down my 26er to the boy, handed down his frame to my daughter and put the 24" wheels back on. We were riding in this combination for about a year. Problem with having custom cool bikes is one day you're pulling into Giant and you see some shithead riding you daughters bike through the parking lot... Punk saw me and took off...

usa259 said:

I haven't read everyone replies, just skimmed the first page. If I read your post correctly, you are looking to add a suspension fork to a rigid fork. I did this about 10 years ago, it was a fun project, learned a lot. It was very interesting to ride, front end is heavier and the steering was much slower. Head angle is very important. Ended up building a 26'er frame up based on all used parts and frame was meant for a front shock, correct head angle. Then built my son a 26er initially with 24" wheels and short crank arms with the intention to put 26" wheels and larger crank arms as he grew. After a year, he was ready for the larger wheels. Then started 29er project, handed down my 26er to the boy, handed down his frame to my daughter and put the 24" wheels back on. We were riding in this combination for about a year. Problem with having custom cool bikes is one day you're pulling into Giant and you see some shithead riding you daughters bike through the parking lot... Punk saw me and took off...

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*****Sounds like a really cool project. Years ago, I used to do stuff like that and continue to do all of my own wrenching now. I have lots of bike specific tools and most of my bikes are custom jobbers I put together from parts I get online.

Mountain bike wise, 26" wheeled bikes were what everyone raced on back in the 90's. They were very agile bikes, and awesome for tight and technical singletrack. Most folks now over perhaps 5 feet in height run 27.5" wheels or if they are over 5'8" or so, 29" ers. The larger wheels roll really fast, even though they are slower to turn. They roll over bumps and logs better and with decent suspension really fly down hills and over bumps that would most likely stop a 26" er in it's tracks.

The newer, more advanced rear suspension setups can help dig the rear wheel into the dirt on very hard slippery climbs, and not lose traction as easily as many traditional hardtails, even though the hardtails tend to be lighter overall and significantly easier to muscle up for smooth riders, with lots of finesse.

It *is* about legs in cycling, and a strong rider on a crappy bike will just ride away from a weak rider on an awesome, super light carbon fiber bike with all of the latest doo-dads. There are plenty of *really* strong riders out there who ride pretty plain "beater" bikes for training, and have a nice racing bike, etc... One of my former road racing team mates bought an old Schwinn Varsity 10 speed *girls* bike at a yard sale for $10 and we tuned it up a bit and put a flower basket on the front of it, and he would ride it on Beach Drive in Rockville/Bethesda and just hammer on it. He could normally ride away from most anyone anyway, but it was hysterical to see the look on other riders faces (on their very very expensive road bikes, all kitted out with racing wheels, etc..) as he just rode them off his wheel on this old beat up purple girls bike with a flower basket, bell, and kickstand on it.

That bike weighed 42 lbs versus our normal 15-17 lbs racing bikes, and it was a beast! Good training for him as well as he really had to work hard on the climbs with such a heavy bike, and it didn't shift as nicely as our normal bikes, and only had friction shifters, and pretty crummy gumwall tires on steel rims, etc...

Project bikes can be a lot of fun. It's a great learning experience on how to use tools, and figure out how mechanical things work. A great way to get a kid to learn how to fix things and be more self-reliant.

OP, Manitou front forks were always good back in the day and I believe they're still highly regarded. They start around $200 on Amazon which is very reasonable, especially given that they're still quality vs a lot of what you find for that price or cheaper online.

thanks guys, you've given me a lot to think about.

What are ya'll's feelings on BMC bikes?

haoleboy said:

What are ya'll's feelings on BMC bikes?

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*****It's a good brand. They have different price points for their bikes, like most other brands. What is most important is that the bike fits you well, and that it suits your purpose (light trail riding, versus more serious trail riding, enduro, XC, etc..).

You can get plenty of really good values on slightly used bikes, on E-bay or used bike clearinghouses, etc.. but you have to know what you are looking for and carefully study the condition of the bike, etc..

Also, many local shops sell last years or even older demo bikes for a lot less money than new, and they will let you try it out, fit you to it and give discounts on accessories, etc... If you ride a lot, it's nice to have a relationship with a local shop, especially if you don't do your own maintenance, etc... If you ride it, a good quality bike rides *alot* nicer and works better than a cheaper version. A better quality bike is also more easy to find replacement parts for, and easier to service, lasts longer, etc..

Get what bests suits you. Plenty of guys I ride on the road with use BMC bikes. The higher end one's are still made in Switzerland, and are ridden by many pro bike teams, triathletes, mountain bikers, etc..

haoleboy said:

What are ya'll's feelings on BMC bikes?

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Generally good. Most brands sold in bike shops have winners and losers, but are fairly equal in quality.

Been mountain biking for about 7 years now. The truth is the bike I'm currently on has capability that's well beyond my riding ability. With that said, I do love the ride and the technology behind the bike is amazing. Much like a high-end LWRC with a Nightforce optic, the build was NOT cheap.







I absolutely agree that any rider can make any bike work - it is the athleticism and skill that counts. HOWEVER, moving to even a cheap bike with an air fork and hydraulic brakes is an exponential upgrade. There's no way to make an older bike perform like these new geometry air-sprung machines.

What is the rise in stock mtb bars? I'm pretty tall and I'm thinking of getting taller bars, but I dunno how much rise i need.
I feel like I'm leaning forward a lot and it puts a strain on my lower back and hands/wrists.