Older rem 700 tinkering

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  • shocker998md

    Ultimate Member
    May 29, 2009
    1,357
    Snow Hill MD
    Hey guys,

    Id like to get some opinions on a rifle I picked up to help me a direction to go in. Ice always been a tinker type of guy, I reload because of the mechanical side to it. I build engines, cars, bikes, and am alawys messing with stuff.

    I scored an older rem 700 270 a few weeks ago. I cleaned it and got all all the fouling out, poped it out of the stock and noticed two things.

    1. There aren't any inserts, washers, or anything for the holes in the stock for the two action screws. This just screams to me that when I tighten up the stock its never consistant.

    2. Is it has a pressure point at the front sling swivel, so the barrel isnt floated.

    Right now ive shot one type of roubd through it. It shot about a 1.5 inch group, ran about 2650 fps with a deviation in the 40 fps range. So ive got tons of ammo work to do.

    In what order of things should I mess with it? I'm thinking 1. Then dial in ammo and if its good enough its done. The trigger is nice, I just was to dial it in better since theres some not expensive things that can improve consistency
     

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    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    Keep in mind a Remington has a round reciever which should already have pretty good contact. How far it extends to support the first part of the barrel is hard to say. Making sure the bottom metal at the very least bears evenly could help.
    The pressure point at the front of the barrel is there from the factory to provide contact to provide a broad consistency of accuracy over very broad circumstances and conditions.
    You could cover the barrel/receiver with candle black to check for other areas where contact occurs and determine how it affects the way it shoots.
    I would shoot it a lot over a couple different range trips, make some notes and compare targets to determine what it needs before I started into it very far.
     

    dist1646

    Ultimate Member
    May 1, 2012
    8,794
    Eldersburg
    Remove the pressure point in the front of the barrel channel of the stock so it doesn't contact the barrel. A dollar bill should slide through all the way to the face of the recoil lug in front of the receiver. Clean any oil from the bottom of the action and the stock where the action makes contact. Put it back together and go shoot some test groups. If you have some, try factory Winchester 130gr power point ammo. The results may surprise you.
    It is a hunting rifle so, skip pillar bedding, etc. for now. Don't worry too much about stock compression. Tighten the action screws hand tight or approx. 40 in/lbs. Later on, if you want, you can bed the action. ( Note, when bedded, I use the same torque spec the USMC RTE shop uses, 55 in/lbs.)
    The trigger should be cleaned while the barreled action is out of the stock. Unless you are very familiar with disassembling Remington triggers, stick with a spray type cleaner instead of disassembling to clean.

    I have done a LOT of Remingtons and they will almost all respond well to what I have recommended.
     

    shocker998md

    Ultimate Member
    May 29, 2009
    1,357
    Snow Hill MD
    Remove the pressure point in the front of the barrel channel of the stock so it doesn't contact the barrel. A dollar bill should slide through all the way to the face of the recoil lug in front of the receiver. Clean any oil from the bottom of the action and the stock where the action makes contact. Put it back together and go shoot some test groups. If you have some, try factory Winchester 130gr power point ammo. The results may surprise you.
    It is a hunting rifle so, skip pillar bedding, etc. for now. Don't worry too much about stock compression. Tighten the action screws hand tight or approx. 40 in/lbs. Later on, if you want, you can bed the action. ( Note, when bedded, I use the same torque spec the USMC RTE shop uses, 55 in/lbs.)
    The trigger should be cleaned while the barreled action is out of the stock. Unless you are very familiar with disassembling Remington triggers, stick with a spray type cleaner instead of disassembling to clean.

    I have done a LOT of Remingtons and they will almost all respond well to what I have recommended.


    The thing that concerns me about torqing it in as is, is that it just has two holes drilled in the stock. The way I'm thinking is every time it gets tightened up the wood compresses in those holes from the head of the fasteners. So without inserts how much is it squishing differently each time.
     

    dist1646

    Ultimate Member
    May 1, 2012
    8,794
    Eldersburg
    The thing that concerns me about torqing it in as is, is that it just has two holes drilled in the stock. The way I'm thinking is every time it gets tightened up the wood compresses in those holes from the head of the fasteners. So without inserts how much is it squishing differently each time.

    The force is distributed across the bottom on the action and the floorplate assembly so, it isn't as much as you think it is. Nothing serious to worry about there. Given the age of the rifle, it has probably compressed as much as it is going to unless extreme force is applied. By extreme force, I am talking enough to strip the threads on the screws or receiver.
     

    trickg

    Guns 'n Drums
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 22, 2008
    14,702
    Glen Burnie
    Maybe I'm thinking a bit too far out of the box, but wouldn't all of those issues be alleviated with a new stock that's designed specifically to mitigate those issues? I suppose if you really wanted to keep the current stock then maybe you could tinker with it, but for me? I'd just get a different stock and call it a day.
     

    Swaim13

    Active Member
    Jun 11, 2017
    337
    Depending on how close that front pressure point is to the end of the stock, if you sand it out, you may need to refinish the entire stock. It is there intentionally but I personally like my barrels free floated the entire length. Just another thing to consider.

    Have you run a borescope down the barrel? You mentioned it is older and you have to clean out the fouling so I would take a peek and make sure there is no damage or carbon rings inside the barrel.

    If you want to use the stock and tinker, you could do a bedding job which is easier than pillar bedding imo. I would also confirm that the bullets and twist rate on the barrel are matched correctly.
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,571
    Harford County, Maryland
    If further test groups have that horizontal stringing....looks like shooting to the left as more shots are fired, bedding is definitely called for.
    I have a Ruger M77 MkII that did that, notably on groups 2, 3 and 4. And this was more prevalent in cool and cold weather. Deer rifle can't
    be like that! I bedded it, sealed it as mentioned it should be above and now is consistent and accurate.
     

    KRC

    Active Member
    Sep 30, 2018
    616
    Cecil County MD
    That looks like a heavier-than-sporter barrel? Are there Remington stamping on the barrel?

    Free floating the barrel may improve accuracy, but it might also be more finicky to tune the load. What degree of precision are you seeking, and at what cost? Older Rem700's provide an excellent base for improvement, and I love the old wood Remington stocks. The metal to wood securing of the action IS an issue when you seek significantly higher precision and is solved with metal pillars epoxied into the wood, combined with epoxy bedding of the action. Any competent gunsmith can do this, or you can do it yourself.

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    shocker998md

    Ultimate Member
    May 29, 2009
    1,357
    Snow Hill MD
    That looks like a heavier-than-sporter barrel? Are there Remington stamping on the barrel?

    Free floating the barrel may improve accuracy, but it might also be more finicky to tune the load. What degree of precision are you seeking, and at what cost? Older Rem700's provide an excellent base for improvement, and I love the old wood Remington stocks. The metal to wood securing of the action IS an issue when you seek significantly higher precision and is solved with metal pillars epoxied into the wood, combined with epoxy bedding of the action. Any competent gunsmith can do this, or you can do it yourself.


    I completely understand the degree of precision at what cost. I just want to dial it in to be consistant, it keep its old weathered look, and I dont have a specific number I want it to shoot. Just reducing stringing so I'm more comfortable at 300 and 400 yards with it.
     

    KRC

    Active Member
    Sep 30, 2018
    616
    Cecil County MD
    The stringing could be caused by a number of issues. Barrel stresses, poor bedding, fouling, poor crown, scope issues etc. etc.. Securing the action (pillar and epoxy bedding) and free floating the barrel are a good start to improved precision, especially combined with hand load/tuning, which you indicate you are willing to do. Floating the barrel will be fast, no-cost, easy, and reversible. I'd give it a try first.

    I'm still wondering about that barrel. Is it a Remington heavy/varmint barrel, or some aftermarket tube? Either way, looks like you've got a very nice base to work with.
     

    shocker998md

    Ultimate Member
    May 29, 2009
    1,357
    Snow Hill MD
    The stringing could be caused by a number of issues. Barrel stresses, poor bedding, fouling, poor crown, scope issues etc. etc.. Securing the action (pillar and epoxy bedding) and free floating the barrel are a good start to improved precision, especially combined with hand load/tuning, which you indicate you are willing to do. Floating the barrel will be fast, no-cost, easy, and reversible. I'd give it a try first.

    I'm still wondering about that barrel. Is it a Remington heavy/varmint barrel, or some aftermarket tube? Either way, looks like you've got a very nice base to work with.

    I'll post up the barrel markings when im around it.

    Where can I find a set of those inserts, thats exactly what I'm wanting to start with.
     

    GunBum

    Active Member
    Feb 21, 2018
    751
    SW Missouri
    https://www.remingtonsociety.org/manufacture-dates/

    Secret decoder ring to manufacture dates for Remingtons.

    Remington 700 production started in 1962, and Remington recycled the letters over the years, so you can’t just go off the earliest letter you find. “X” *should* be the year of Manufactre which would be 1973 or 2003. I’d say 1973 makes more sense based off the look of the rifle and the lack of key lock thingy on the bolt. The “U” might be a poorly stamped “O” which would make the gun made in July and assembled in “W” which is August. Maybe :lol2:
     

    shocker998md

    Ultimate Member
    May 29, 2009
    1,357
    Snow Hill MD
    https://www.remingtonsociety.org/manufacture-dates/

    Secret decoder ring to manufacture dates for Remingtons.

    Remington 700 production started in 1962, and Remington recycled the letters over the years, so you can’t just go off the earliest letter you find. “X” *should* be the year of Manufactre which would be 1973 or 2003. I’d say 1973 makes more sense based off the look of the rifle and the lack of key lock thingy on the bolt. The “U” might be a poorly stamped “O” which would make the gun made in July and assembled in “W” which is August. Maybe :lol2:


    The reciever being tapped for a rear peep site is a giveaway for being older, so 1973 it is.
     

    dist1646

    Ultimate Member
    May 1, 2012
    8,794
    Eldersburg
    When you take the action out of the stock, you will notice the "bump" but also take note that there is a ridge running the length of the fore end. That is due to the method used to inlet the stock during mass production. If the barrel contacts the "ridge", it must be sanded out so there is no contact. It can cause accuracy issues. Just another reason why the barrel should be free floated all the way back to the recoil lug. The pic is a bit fuzzy but, it is 3 shots at 200 yards with factory ammo and only the modifications I previously mentioned.
     

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