GBs are the only round I've had occasional issues with. Removing the loaded chamber indicator will help with that. Also make sure the feed ramp is clean and not gunked up.
I definitely will be looking into removing that LCI.
GBs are the only round I've had occasional issues with. Removing the loaded chamber indicator will help with that. Also make sure the feed ramp is clean and not gunked up.
Ruger II or III
GBs are the only round I've had occasional issues with. Removing the loaded chamber indicator will help with that. Also make sure the feed ramp is clean and not gunked up.
I definitely will be looking into removing that LCI.
Remove the LCI. Makes a noticeable difference in how smoothly the 22/45 operates. Removing the mag disconnect and LCI and using a Volquartsen sear makes a big difference.
You paying attention protegeV?This
You paying attention protegeV?
I just hope that my new 22/45 (and revolver) will function with as low as Golden Bullets, since I have a bit of those available. My old MK II did good with them, aside from the expected FTF, and FTEs...If not, I'll have a lot of ammo just for my old Winchester 190 rifle...
GBs are the only round I've had occasional issues with. Removing the loaded chamber indicator will help with that. Also make sure the feed ramp is clean and not gunked up.
I definitely will be looking into removing that LCI.
If you want to preserve the original look of the gun without buying a filler, just remove the metal tang on LCI itself. This will solve any jamming problems while letting you use the original LCI flag.
The LCI flag is held in by a pin. There's no way for you to physically grip or push the pin out. You will need a small, powerful magnet to pull it out. On the flag is a spring loaded metal tang that actually contacts the round. That's the part that pushes the flag out when a round is chambered. It's also the part that can cause issues with feeding. Remove this piece and the tiny spring that goes with it, then reassemble. That LCI won't work anymore, but problems caused by that piece are now eliminated.
If you want to preserve the original look of the gun without buying a filler, just remove the metal tang on LCI itself. This will solve any jamming problems while letting you use the original LCI flag.
The LCI flag is held in by a pin. There's no way for you to physically grip or push the pin out. You will need a small, powerful magnet to pull it out. On the flag is a spring loaded metal tang that actually contacts the round. That's the part that pushes the flag out when a round is chambered. It's also the part that can cause issues with feeding. Remove this piece and the tiny spring that goes with it, then reassemble. That LCI won't work anymore, but problems caused by that piece are now eliminated.
I did this exact mod. Solves the problem and doesnt cost a dime.If you want to preserve the original look of the gun without buying a filler, just remove the metal tang on LCI itself. This will solve any jamming problems while letting you use the original LCI flag.
The LCI flag is held in by a pin. There's no way for you to physically grip or push the pin out. You will need a small, powerful magnet to pull it out. On the flag is a spring loaded metal tang that actually contacts the round. That's the part that pushes the flag out when a round is chambered. It's also the part that can cause issues with feeding. Remove this piece and the tiny spring that goes with it, then reassemble. That LCI won't work anymore, but problems caused by that piece are now eliminated.
I definitely will be looking into removing that LCI.
I have a ruger 22/45, same grip angle and controls is how it is marketed but I don't have a 1911 so I can't comment if its true.
I have a S&W M&P 10-22 and love it. It has handled every ammo brand/velocity I have thrown at it.