Removing frozen firing pin cover - lost cause? [Iver Johnson revolver]

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  • Wheelbrain

    Active Member
    Aug 15, 2011
    116
    Rockville, Maryland
    I rediscovered my ancestor's Iver Johnson revolver, and am trying to restore it to operational condition. I probably won't fire it -- just considering it a project. I'm trying to remove the firing pin cover pictured below, to replace the firing pin and/or firing pin spring.

    Here's a picture. Rest assured, those rough machining marks are not my effort in trying to remove it. Iver Johnson revolvers were a working class firearm, and it shows. For the life of me, I cannot get that cover to budge. Although it appears to be a pressed piece, a disassembly video indicates that it can be unscrewed. Here's what I've tried:

    • Purchased a pair of ring pliers, and tried to remove it. I expected this; the bushing probably hasn't been removed since it was manufactured c. 1896.
    • Applied WD 40, PB Blaster, and Kroil in separate trials, and tried to unscrew it each time with aforementioned ring pliers.
    • Placed ring pliers in vise grip pliers, and tried to rotate the bushing -- no luck.

    I live near the NRA range in Fairfax. I visited a couple gunsmiths, and asked whether someone could remove it -- all declined the work. Before I give up and reassemble it, any bright ideas from this community? I wouldn't mind if removing it involves destroying the cover; Numrich has spare parts.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,734
    Socialist State of Maryland
    If you are handy enough to make your own tool, it may work.

    You need to get two good drill bits from Brownells or maybe MSC supply. You want bits that will just fit the two holes in the bushing. Then you get a piece of 1/4 inch flat stock and make a lever about three to four inches long by 3/8 to 1/2 wide. (this depends on the hole spacing) Cut off the back end of each drill bit about 1/4 inch. Next drill your piece of stock 3/4 through with the EXACT spacing of the bushing holes. Insert the cut off pieces of drill bit using red locktite. Cut the drill bit pieces down to about 1/8 of a inch with a dremel cut off wheel.

    Heat the pistol breech area with a hair dryer as hot as you can. Spray liberally with a penetrating oil periodically as it cools. ( soaking would be better if you have the ability)

    After a couple of days, mount frame in padded vise and use tool to remove bushing. you will need to keep back pressure on the tool so it doesn't slip out of the holes.

    This is a tried and true way of removing firing pin bushings or recoil bolts. It was easy for me to make as I have a mill and drill press, torch and all the other stuff.

    Don't heat the drill bit stock too much or you will make them soft.

    Good luck.
     

    slsc98

    Ultimate Member
    May 24, 2012
    6,746
    Escaped MD-stan to WNC Smokies
    Alas, I don't think any advice will surpass Johns and I admire your knowing your limitations I don’t have anything to offer other than wondering if there is a Gunsmith “college” or tech school within practical access to you - Johns advice sounds like an excellent “thesis” project for such a student ....
     

    MifflinKid

    Member
    Dec 30, 2010
    37
    Howard County
    I have a Stoeger double barrel shotgun with firing pin bushings. These bushings had three outer holes around the center firing pin holes. When I started to have some light strikes on the shot shells I was told I had likely peened the front shoulder of the firing pins by dry firing. To replace the firing pins and their springs I had to remove the firing pin bushings.

    To remove them I found two small drill bits (5/64" as I recall) that would fit into two of the three holes. I placed a fairly large Allen wrench between them, right against the breech face, and turned them out counter-clockwise.

    For your gun I would heat the bushing up and keep applying your penetrating oil for several minutes. Ideally you would want to see the oil bubbling up around the bushing. Then stick the drill bits in the holes and get to work with the Allen wrench. Be careful not to burn yourself as you turn out the bushing.
     

    Nanook

    F-notso-NG-anymore
    Mix the cheapest Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) you can find or if you have an open bottle, even better, with acetone: 50/50.

    Maybe a gentle heat to expand the metal a tiny bit and then put a drop of two on and around the stuck item. Let it hang out for a while. (Or dunk the whole gun in a metal container with a tight lid.)

    It may take repeated heat and apply cycles but if it isn't locked or welded in, the bits will move sooner or later.

    Keep it in a sealed container to keep the acetone from evaporating out.
     

    mvee

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 13, 2007
    2,487
    Crofton
    Maybe you could take a 1/4 inch drive socket that is the diameter of the hole spacing and make a tool to fit the holes. You could grind away the face of the socket leaving two pins that would fit into the two holes. You should use a ratchet handle on the fabricated tool to remove the part.
     

    mvee

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 13, 2007
    2,487
    Crofton
    Or maybe you could take a large heavy screwdriver and file a notch in the center of the blade and then file the two remaining tabs to fit the holes.
     

    Dave

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 10, 2008
    4,296
    Gamber, Marylanistan
    drill bits, strong flat head screw driver or allen wrench, and hit the revolver body with a heat gun and add oil a few times is what I'd try. gl
     

    Matlack

    Scribe
    Dec 15, 2008
    8,555
    You need a spanner wrench. Oring pliers will damage the firearm, which it looks like you already tried.

    Try soaking the frame, only the frame, in a warm oil bath to penetrate the threads. Then using the correct spanner wrench turn the firing pin cover.

    You could use cooking utensils like a deep fryer or frying pan, but you will ruin them and will never want to use them again to cook. A sonic cleaner with warmer and an appropriate oil will work great. You could also try soaking in kerosene, clean the firearm and let it sit out on a hot day, and then soaking in a penetrating oil. Lots of ways to try and help the threads to come free.
     

    Boxcab

    MSI EM
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 22, 2007
    7,867
    AA County
    At one time there must have been a tool designated to do that job. If you can determine the hole diameters (drill bit shanks) and get an accurate spacing measurement, it would be easier to determine if something already exists.

    In the mean time, start the soaking/heat cycling process to loosen things up.






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    Art3

    Eqinsu Ocha
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 30, 2015
    13,267
    Harford County

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