AR-10 ejection issues

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  • lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    Okay, thanks. Yeah, I think I'll make a quick brass cart jig to throw it in to my vise, pull the ejector and cut the spring a little. Any suggestions on how much to start with removing? Like a whole coil at a time? I don't really need some specific angle, other than "not back in to the chamber occasionally".

    Fortunately my oldest is itching to get to the range. Doubt he'll mind much if we take the 22 for him, and I put a few rounds from the AR-10 down range to check function. Maybe I can swing it next week.

    Times like these I really wish I had a property where I could just walk out back, shoot a few rounds, take it back in side, money with it, rinse and repeat.

    Also, is there such a thing as extractor springs that are TOO strong? I can't think that's the issue here. Just wondering if I should replace them while I am at it (I see Sprinco makes a dual spring extra power extract spring set for AR-10s).
     

    GutPile

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 4, 2016
    3,218
    My armalite AR10 is a champ as long as I don't put a can on it. Then its stove pipes every 5th round. But that is to be expected without an adjustable block or some other mods when suppressed. I need to get around to replacing the gas block.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,736
    Socialist State of Maryland
    Okay, thanks. Yeah, I think I'll make a quick brass cart jig to throw it in to my vise, pull the ejector and cut the spring a little. Any suggestions on how much to start with removing? Like a whole coil at a time? I don't really need some specific angle, other than "not back in to the chamber occasionally".

    Fortunately my oldest is itching to get to the range. Doubt he'll mind much if we take the 22 for him, and I put a few rounds from the AR-10 down range to check function. Maybe I can swing it next week.

    Times like these I really wish I had a property where I could just walk out back, shoot a few rounds, take it back in side, money with it, rinse and repeat.

    Also, is there such a thing as extractor springs that are TOO strong? I can't think that's the issue here. Just wondering if I should replace them while I am at it (I see Sprinco makes a dual spring extra power extract spring set for AR-10s).

    Try taking 3 coils off first and see how that works.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    Got parts in and headed to the range tomorrow. Went to cut the ejector spring that was in there. Oops, through away my 1/16” punch. Well a 1/16” drill bit worked to knock out the pin using a pipe vise to compress the ejector with a case.

    Anyway, took the spring to the garage to grind it 2 coils shorter to be conservative. Opened my package from PA with a new ejector spring.

    Decided to just drop the new ejector spring in. It was exactly two coils shorter. Does make me feel that much more like the spring Brownell’s out in there is way too strong.

    Taking my Allen wrenches to the range in case I’ve gotta retune the gas system (I hope not). Ejector does feel softer now. A bit closer to what my AR-15 ejectors feel like, not massively over sprung.
     

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    DavidA

    The Master of Disaster
    Dec 6, 2013
    371
    Annapolis
    Got parts in and headed to the range tomorrow. Went to cut the ejector spring that was in there. Oops, through away my 1/16” punch. Well a 1/16” drill bit worked to knock out the pin using a pipe vise to compress the ejector with a case.

    Anyway, took the spring to the garage to grind it 2 coils shorter to be conservative. Opened my package from PA with a new ejector spring.

    Decided to just drop the new ejector spring in. It was exactly two coils shorter. Does make me feel that much more like the spring Brownell’s out in there is way too strong.

    Taking my Allen wrenches to the range in case I’ve gotta retune the gas system (I hope not). Ejector does feel softer now. A bit closer to what my AR-15 ejectors feel like, not massively over sprung.


    Yep pretty much, I think you will be pleasantly surprised. Does not inspire much confidence in their technical abilities. Oh well. That is why we have forums. To correct stupidity some times.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    Yep pretty much, I think you will be pleasantly surprised. Does not inspire much confidence in their technical abilities. Oh well. That is why we have forums. To correct stupidity some times.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    I am willing to take some blame. I ran out and bought a BCG from them on sale a couple years ago to accumulate parts for a build and never bothered to ask “so what do you Guys recommend” here on MDS. That and two years ago there were like half as many options (and most more expensive). A lot more guys getting in to the AR-10 game.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    Ejection pattern was improved. 3 o’clock rather than 2:30. 5th one shot, Wolf, ended up back in the chamber. Fired another 15 rounds of wolf and 10 of Magtech M80 and all of those functioned fine and kicked clear. Steel probably both ejects differently due to the different weight case as well as bounces off the shell deflector differently. I don’t have much more steel nor do I intend to get more (probably). So, so long as brass is running fine...

    Certainly the smoothest. So the rifle was 1 in 2-3 stove pipes with fixed gas. 1 in 4-5 with adjustable gas and tuned. This was 1 in 30 on this trip and again, maybe it would run perfectly with brass.

    If it continues at a low rate, probably clip a coil off the ejector spring to take the force down just a tiny bit more.
     

    DavidA

    The Master of Disaster
    Dec 6, 2013
    371
    Annapolis
    You could do what I did to save my brass. When shooting heavies 225 Hornady HPBT. To get 2450 out of a 20” barrel take a stout load of RL17. Did not have and adjustable gas block at the time and the carrier was moving back pretty hard under these loads. No stove pipes but the necks of the shoulders of the brass were getting pretty dinged up from hitting the deflector pretty hard. So I got some adhesive backed hook and loop tape, meant to be used as a Velcro attachment point. Cut out a small piece to just cover the entire deflector. Made a big difference and saved my brass necks and shoulders to boot. This might help you out as well. I do have adjustable gas blocks now but this little piece leaves spent brass not dinged up.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    You could do what I did to save my brass. When shooting heavies 225 Hornady HPBT. To get 2450 out of a 20” barrel take a stout load of RL17. Did not have and adjustable gas block at the time and the carrier was moving back pretty hard under these loads. No stove pipes but the necks of the shoulders of the brass were getting pretty dinged up from hitting the deflector pretty hard. So I got some adhesive backed hook and loop tape, meant to be used as a Velcro attachment point. Cut out a small piece to just cover the entire deflector. Made a big difference and saved my brass necks and shoulders to boot. This might help you out as well. I do have adjustable gas blocks now but this little piece leaves spent brass not dinged up.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    Good call, thanks. Yeah didn’t think of that. Been eyeing something like that to be gentle on my AR-15 brass (which all eject fine, but all my AR-15s beat up the brass a bit). This AR-10 seems real gentle on the brass, but a slight pad on the brass deflect might also keep an errant piece from flying back in.

    I’ve got some hook and loop with adhesive on the back. I’d swap it out for different at some point. It’s white...but at least it would be great to trial it.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,736
    Socialist State of Maryland
    This is pretty much standard for AR reloading to keep the dents down. Us the fuzz side of the Velcro and make sure to clean the receiver surface with alcohol before installing. I have some that has been on for years.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    Any thoughts on this?

    Sure Velcro is cheaper, but not like massively cheaper or $16 (or less I’d bet if I shop around) vs maybe $6 for some black adhesive Velcro.

    And it comes with 4 pads. That’s enough for most of my uppers.
     

    ACMAN

    Active Member
    Jan 24, 2011
    324
    Maryland
    I had the exact same issue with a 6.5 Creedmoor build. 22" barrel with a Superlative Arms adjustable gas block.
    Check your gas port size. I had to open up my gas port a couple of numbered bit sizes. After I did that all was well.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    I had the exact same issue with a 6.5 Creedmoor build. 22" barrel with a Superlative Arms adjustable gas block.
    Check your gas port size. I had to open up my gas port a couple of numbered bit sizes. After I did that all was well.

    Nah, mine seems to be appropriately sized or even maybe a hair larger. My adjustable gas block is only about half open and it’s adjusted to “BCG locks back on the weakest Ammo I have, and then a quarter turn further”.

    It’s about a further about 540 degree turn to fully open and definitely less issues than with it fully open.
     

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