That is correct. The crimping die will straighten out bell that was put in the case. I adjust my factory crimp die for a diameter of .379. After closing the bell with the seat die or a crimp die, it should fit your case gauge.
Clean your dies
- Thread starter Speedluvn
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That is correct. The crimping die will straighten out bell that was put in the case. I adjust my factory crimp die for a diameter of .379. After closing the bell with the seat die or a crimp die, it should fit your case gauge.
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,999
Crimp!
Just don't OVER crimp.
I often wonder how much easier life would be for new semi-auto pistol reloaders, if they called the "taper crimp" die a "case mouth" bell or flare removal die instead.
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,999
Speedluvn
Active Member
After placing in the Lee factory crimp die is still doesn’t plunk in the gauge? Seeking other areas to trouble shoot. I’ll take, yet another look to determine if I have my seating & crimp dies adjusted correctly. I was wondering if I was missing anything else?
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,999
You should have calipers. Use them. They will help you set your crimp adjustment properly. Measure the case mouth after sizing, before flaring and again after loading.
Measure those three steps as a guideline.
Or, simply observe the case mouth after reloading but before you crimp with a magnifying glass. You'll notice a slight gap between the case mouth and the bullet. Make that gap go away.
Speedluvn
Active Member
Yeah, the various crimps can get confusing to a fledgling reloader.
Thank you.
Rockzilla
Ultimate Member
would make more sense..but
good calipers goes a long way and do come in handy
what make is the case gauge?
I use these in the "common calibers"
https://www.egwguns.com/chamber-checkers/
and the plunk test more so in the 45acp 1911's
Bar-sto barrels.
take measurement like explained above. "if" you have some
facory ammo...take some measurements..
-Rock
Speedluvn
Active Member
It’s a Midway from my father’s equipment. I do have some FMJ factory stuff measure but I’m as to how to set the Lee Factory die to “clean up” completed round. Had to take a break from this problem for the moment.
Rockzilla
Ultimate Member
walk away ...come back with a clear mindset.....90% of the time
it's really simple....
reason factory stuff was suggested you have sort of a base line...
will they drop in your case gauge. take your measurements, factory
vs. Reloaded...was this stuff fired in a Glock by chance?..gotta ask..
Trying to help and get as much nfo as possible...
-Rock
Speedluvn
Active Member
I appreciate your assistance immensely! Thank you.
This is range brass that has been picked up over the years, processed and now reloaded.
Outrider58 mentioned the calipers and I started taking measurements of the two loaded cases. Mine and the factory load.
My question is, now I have the measurements, how do I make corrective action with the crimp adjustment?
Your diagram is helpful reference as well, again thank you.
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
That is serious overkill.
I clean the seating die every few thousand rounds when loading cast bullets due to lube build up.
I have loaded over 10,000 rounds in sizing and crimping dies without ever cleaning one.
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,999
Many of us use the Lee Factory Crimp die. They work well and are easy to adjust.
Back the adjustment(center knurled part of the die) counter clockwise so it won't contact the case mouth of a freshly seated cartridge. Ram the cartridge up into the crimp die all the way. Next, adjust the crimp downward until you feel it touch the case of the cartridge. Lower the cartridge out of the die and begin adjusting the crimper down into the die further, first by only a quarter turn (clockwise). Raise the cartridge all the way up into the die. You should begin to feel resistance at the end of the upward stroke of the ram. Remove the cartridge from the press and measure(or observe) the case mouth. All you are trying to achieve is the removal of the flare and a consistent neck tension on the cartridge.
I will add this;oftentimes, especially in 9mm and .45 ACP, if the cartridge hangs up at the very end of the case gauge(goes almost all the way in), that may only mean the 'rim' of the case is a little munged. That is caused by previous extractions(remember, we are working with previously fired brass). I put those aside and test them in a barrel. If they plunk, they're GTG.
Wait, people use something other than the Lee FCD for crimping pistol? When did this happen?
But, seriously, I've never had a round fail to chamber when I correctly used the FCD. It is that good. I don't even bother gauging 9mm anymore outside of ammo for important matches, and just eyeball for proper primer insertion and any obvious weirdness (the odd 380 case that makes it through the process, etc.) as I put them in boxes. If you are struggling with crimp, just add the FCD into your process. If you are loading on a single stage, yeah, that's gonna slow you down, but on the other hand, you're unlikely to be loading huge volumes on a non-progressive anyways.
ETA: never cleaned my dies, ever. Haven't noticed any problems. Also not loading uncoated lead...
But, seriously, I've never had a round fail to chamber when I correctly used the FCD. It is that good. I don't even bother gauging 9mm anymore outside of ammo for important matches, and just eyeball for proper primer insertion and any obvious weirdness (the odd 380 case that makes it through the process, etc.) as I put them in boxes. If you are struggling with crimp, just add the FCD into your process. If you are loading on a single stage, yeah, that's gonna slow you down, but on the other hand, you're unlikely to be loading huge volumes on a non-progressive anyways.
ETA: never cleaned my dies, ever. Haven't noticed any problems. Also not loading uncoated lead...
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,999
Rockzilla
Ultimate Member
Yeah...probably soo..environment played a big role at the time. I still clean them all first.. old habits...
Through the Stars in 9 / 45 / 38 once in a while, use coated bullets..lead bullets, the old lubes, etc.. mainly
pull the seat die..
Sorry guess I'm one CH Tool & Die Company (Now CH4D) taper crimp
dies, 9 / 45 / 5.56 / 7.62.... oh well.. never had any issues. and that happened a while ago.
look at it like this if it works stay with it...
as Outrider stated...die setup
"Ram the cartridge up into the crimp die all the way. Next, adjust the crimp downward until you feel it
touch the case of the cartridge. Lower the cartridge out of the die and begin adjusting the crimper down
into the die further, first by only a quarter turn (clockwise). Raise the cartridge all the way up into the die.
You should begin to feel resistance at the end of the upward stroke of the ram. Remove the cartridge from
the press and measure(or observe) the case mouth. All you are trying to achieve is the removal of the flare
and a consistent neck tension on the cartridge"
To add:
some have the dies adjusted incorrectly..still trying to seat the bullet during / after the crimp operation. some
dies don't "touch" the base of the case when re-sizing.. speaking of that..do you have the sizer set-up correctly?
(gotta ask again)
your measurement...what are the differences factory vs. reload making sure your using the same reference point
take a magic marker and mark around the case.. insert it into the guage, if you can rotate the case so it would mark
it to show some kind of "rubbing" / marks will also give you an idea.. used to use "lamp-black" back in the day.
-Rock
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
I see the same with 5.56.
I just give them a slight push with my thumb. Normally they go in, and that removes the bur that was preventing them from dropping in under gravity.
So I retest. Normally, they drop in.
If the don't go in with a light push, I set aside for later examination.
I do not test every round. Once my press is set up, I just make ammo.
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
I have used Lyman and RCBS taper crimp dies without problems.
Rockzilla
Ultimate Member
Rockzilla
Ultimate Member
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