Having a pistol inspected?

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

  • No ad networks!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • m.ammer69

    Member
    Jul 3, 2013
    76
    So I recently purchased a new pistol, the shop I got it from suggested that I have the gun inspected before I fire it. It's an H&A 32 top break, if the serial number is correct, it's over 115yrs old. So I'm looking into getting it inspected, to make sure it's safe to fire, I was curious what a good gunsmith would do to make sure it's safe to fire? As well if anyone knows a good gunsmith?
     

    GuitarmanNick

    Ultimate Member
    Jan 9, 2017
    2,223
    Laurel
    Can't help with recommending a smith, but the shop gave you great advice.

    With revolvers, there is a chance that use has caused wear over it's lifetime leaving things not as tight as they need to be. Cylinder timing, lockup, play, etc... along with checking for cracks, pitting, etc...

    Top break revolvers have a few additional things which could result in catastrophic failure and injury.

    Even if it checks out well, be sure to use ammunition appropriate for the old metal.
     

    Doctor_M

    Certified Mad Scientist
    MDS Supporter
    This^^^ I shoot antique revolvers all the time and it can be done safely, but inspect the timing and frame latch carefully. If you detect any cracks or signs of stress it should become a wall hanger. BP or low powder rounds only. If I can shoot a short in something (i.e. .32 S&W, .38 Colt, etc.) I will always take that option.

    With a "new" antique gun make sure timing and lock up are good before you put a live round through it. A lot of these late 1800s guns were not made of the best metal and many were designed to be more or less disposable. Be cautious and have fun!
     

    bratgirllcp

    Ultimate Member
    Jan 13, 2013
    2,795
    Grasonville MD
    Can't help with recommending a smith, but the shop gave you great advice.

    With revolvers, there is a chance that use has caused wear over it's lifetime leaving things not as tight as they need to be. Cylinder timing, lockup, play, etc... along with checking for cracks, pitting, etc...

    Top break revolvers have a few additional things which could result in catastrophic failure and injury.

    Even if it checks out well, be sure to use ammunition appropriate for the old metal.



    ^^^^^^^ Great Advise
     

    m.ammer69

    Member
    Jul 3, 2013
    76
    Thank you for your guys advice. It does seem to lock up and cycle well enough. I saw some pitting but nothing more than some of the other 70-80+yr firearms I have that I've put over 300rds threw. I'm in the Essex/Baltimore area.
     

    m.ammer69

    Member
    Jul 3, 2013
    76
    Well took it down to blue fins and had them look at it, everything checks out fine, just now I just need to start my hunt for 32 S &W ammo, because the 88-85gr is apparently pretty difficult to find.
     

    Attachments

    • IMG_20211005_094429663.jpg
      IMG_20211005_094429663.jpg
      72.9 KB · Views: 233
    • IMG_20211005_094415188.jpg
      IMG_20211005_094415188.jpg
      73.8 KB · Views: 237

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,891
    Socialist State of Maryland
    Well took it down to blue fins and had them look at it, everything checks out fine, just now I just need to start my hunt for 32 S &W ammo, because the 88-85gr is apparently pretty difficult to find.

    Good luck. I used to have a few top breaks in .32 and .38S&W and I had to reload for them. At the time, Cowboy shooting was pretty hot and many people had hide out guns so getting brass wasn't a problem. Today, I can't even find .32 Auto.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,721
    Ahh, the last time I checked there wasn't any in stock. Now if only they would get some .32 ACP.

    Just gotta reload for it. Which is a B and a half. I am still figuring that one out. I need to do more measuring of all the things. But commercially loaded rounds I’ve tried run in my Cz50 and Yugo model 70. My reloads, I have to run at minimum COAL before they’ll drop in my model 70 barrel. I’ve tried two types of bullets.

    My Cz50 has been having failures to feed at that COAL. I haven’t tried loading to max magazine length (which is what I’ve had recommended to me). But that won’t fly in my 70. Which runs my reloads without a hiccup. And of course component options are limited for .311 bullets in that weight. Really I need to spend a day sitting down and loading up a bunch of options and then get to the range and see what’ll work in the 50.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,891
    Socialist State of Maryland
    I no longer load for the .32 ACP as I sold off my collection after about 30 years worth. I reloaded using a 77 grain hard lead bullet that I bought from a bullet casting company in Ohio that is no longer in business. While the CZ 50 and CZ 70 are from the same family, the 70 was a more refined relative. This is what the bullet looked like if you can find someone that still makes therm.

    https://www.brownells.com/reloading...ound-nose-pistol-bullet-mould-prod111007.aspx
     

    Users who are viewing this thread

    Forum statistics

    Threads
    275,323
    Messages
    7,277,229
    Members
    33,436
    Latest member
    DominicM

    Latest threads

    Top Bottom