Just got back into Archery I am hooked
- Thread starter Bradp56
- Start date
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j_h_smith
Ultimate Member
- Jul 28, 2007
- 28,516
You have a conumdrum to solve.
Carbon arrows break, because they do not bend.
Alunimnum arrows bend. This option is not too bad, if you have a straightener.
Carbon arrows break, because they do not bend.
Alunimnum arrows bend. This option is not too bad, if you have a straightener.
VNVGUNNER
Ultimate Member
Carbon arrows bend and flex more then alum.
Aluminum shafts will work fine. Unless you are slapping them together in the target (if you are, shoot only one arrow at a spot and use multiple spots on your target to prevent this). They are cheaper than carbons and many of us used Alums for many, many years with no issues, other than the occasional errant shot that may bend an arrow shaft.
Carbons are more popular nowadays, they don't bend, but they do crack, which is actually worse, if you shoot a cracked carbon, you may get some unexpected results.. (this can be very bad too), but they are more $$$ and depending on what you are going to do (shoot competition, hunting, etc), they may not be worth the extra money.
I shot alums for over 30 years, never owned a straightener, just learn to 'spin' your arrows to check for bends. If one doesn't fly consistently, set it aside and check it for bending. You can check a shaft very quickly by placing the arrow point on the open palm of one hand, support the fletched end between two fingers (actually two fingernails) of the other hand. Blow on the fletching off to one side of the arrow. This will cause the arrow to spin quickly in your hand and you can see any runout very quickly and easily.
All that said, it is important to learn how to get a properly spined arrow for your particular setup. Most of the mfr's websites have arrow selection charts to point you in the right direction, depending on draw weight, type of bow and draw/arrow lengths. These factors all affect arrow spine and over or under-spined will give you problems with consistency.
Carbons are more popular nowadays, they don't bend, but they do crack, which is actually worse, if you shoot a cracked carbon, you may get some unexpected results.. (this can be very bad too), but they are more $$$ and depending on what you are going to do (shoot competition, hunting, etc), they may not be worth the extra money.
I shot alums for over 30 years, never owned a straightener, just learn to 'spin' your arrows to check for bends. If one doesn't fly consistently, set it aside and check it for bending. You can check a shaft very quickly by placing the arrow point on the open palm of one hand, support the fletched end between two fingers (actually two fingernails) of the other hand. Blow on the fletching off to one side of the arrow. This will cause the arrow to spin quickly in your hand and you can see any runout very quickly and easily.
All that said, it is important to learn how to get a properly spined arrow for your particular setup. Most of the mfr's websites have arrow selection charts to point you in the right direction, depending on draw weight, type of bow and draw/arrow lengths. These factors all affect arrow spine and over or under-spined will give you problems with consistency.
I've been buying Easton Carbon Storm arrows on Ebay, plastic vanes, nocks installed, your choice of spine, cut to your length and inserts installed. The nocks can be twisted to where you want them.
I haven't broken or bent any yet.
I haven't broken or bent any yet.
Pale Ryder
Ultimate Member
Compound= Carbon or aluminums with plastic vanes.
Recurve/Longbow= aluminum or wood with feathers. I would go with aluminums for now and maybe cedar shafts down the road.
What weight is the bow?
Recurve/Longbow= aluminum or wood with feathers. I would go with aluminums for now and maybe cedar shafts down the road.
What weight is the bow?
CrabbyMcNab
Ultimate Member
- Feb 1, 2009
- 2,474
3 rivers archery has a "test" kit of wood arrows that has different spine weights. They also have a multi weight field tip kit. I could really see a difference for which weight combo worked best in my receive.
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,984
If you're going traditional, why not cedar shafts?
Because he's practicing?
F8L_Funnel
Active Member
- Jan 28, 2013
- 703
Went to an archery club last week. Took my daughter and she loved it! The 70 year old lady next to me shooting a recurve bow was pegging 10's all day at 20 meters. She told me my compound was "nice", then when back to her 10's.
I am a relatively new shooter for bow, but at 50 meters I was punching my carbons 5" through the large straw target base. At 70 Meters I still broke through the back side by about 1". took 60 shots and ripped 3 of my field heads retracting the arrows.
I am a relatively new shooter for bow, but at 50 meters I was punching my carbons 5" through the large straw target base. At 70 Meters I still broke through the back side by about 1". took 60 shots and ripped 3 of my field heads retracting the arrows.
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,984
Meaning what?
Gordon
Ultimate Member
Grab some ramin shafts and have a blast.
Coby............ where you at, I hear you got a NICE classic recurve in the mail yesterday! 
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,984
What kind of recurve do you have? Target, hunting, longbow? That would help dictate what type arrow you would choose. I would be helpful to know what draw weight is at full draw to get properly spined arrows.
For that setup you need a pretty weak arrow. Do you know the size/specs of the aluminums you tried? Brand? Length? Usually they will be marked with a size 2016, 2117, or spine, usually a number in the hundreds (500, 550, 600 etc.)
How long is an arrow and how much is sticking forward of the bowshelf when you come to full draw and release?
How long is an arrow and how much is sticking forward of the bowshelf when you come to full draw and release?
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