Poly 80 full size Glock 17/22 frame V2

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  • lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    Shoobedoo, thanks for the info! I promise I’ll search more, but a quick question that occurred to me, would it be helpful to have the lower parts on hand, or everything, for finishing the 80%? You know go super slow and test fit pieces as I drill and mill?

    Tracker, usually cheaper to buy one. Especially if you get a used one. I’ve seen them as low as $400 a couple of times for used Gen 3 17. $150 for the 80%, $50 for the lower parts kit, >$200 for a slide and barrel kit (I see them mostly for around $250-300 for entry level ones) and you are at over $400 in parts.

    That said, it is maybe possible. Keep an eye on deals and stuff. Fingers crossed on my 80%, but I picked it up for $50. That is $100 off the total bill of materials. I might be able to pick up a Glock LPK on sale for Black Friday or something to save a few bucks. Maybe I can get a slide/barrel kit on sale or used or something at some point.

    For me it is a combo of F U to MD over the HQL as well as loving to build stuff. I’ve built 1 AR complete rifle, one AR pistol and a complete upper and working on another complete AR build. I’ll likely end up getting an HQL at some point. Even if I had it, I’d still enjoy it as my own feel good way to flip the bird to MD leg and certainly enjoy the building aspect of it.
     

    Shoobedoo

    US Army Veteran
    Jun 1, 2013
    10,973
    Keyser WV
    Shoobedoo, thanks for the info! I promise I’ll search more, but a quick question that occurred to me, would it be helpful to have the lower parts on hand, or everything, for finishing the 80%? You know go super slow and test fit pieces as I drill and mill?

    Tracker, usually cheaper to buy one. Especially if you get a used one. I’ve seen them as low as $400 a couple of times for used Gen 3 17. $150 for the 80%, $50 for the lower parts kit, >$200 for a slide and barrel kit (I see them mostly for around $250-300 for entry level ones) and you are at over $400 in parts.

    That said, it is maybe possible. Keep an eye on deals and stuff. Fingers crossed on my 80%, but I picked it up for $50. That is $100 off the total bill of materials. I might be able to pick up a Glock LPK on sale for Black Friday or something to save a few bucks. Maybe I can get a slide/barrel kit on sale or used or something at some point.

    For me it is a combo of F U to MD over the HQL as well as loving to build stuff. I’ve built 1 AR complete rifle, one AR pistol and a complete upper and working on another complete AR build. I’ll likely end up getting an HQL at some point. Even if I had it, I’d still enjoy it as my own feel good way to flip the bird to MD leg and certainly enjoy the building aspect of it.

    Yes, I would recommend having all the frame build parts and a complete slide on hand when you start milling the v1 frame.

    As I said previously, for $50 there's no real harm in doing a v1 frame, you'll gain valuable experience that will serve you well for any future builds, and if it works reliably, then just shoot it as long as you can, if it fails, no big deal, you can always strip the parts out and re-use them.

    There are a bunch of Youtube vids out there as well from people who did the v1, these could be a valuable resource during your build.

    The only caveat is if you happened to get an "old stock" early frame with the loose trigger housing mechanism cavity, that is most likely going to cause you problems, but many of us have dealt with it and can offer suggestions if it should become necessary. Good luck with your build and let us know how it goes..:thumbsup:
     

    ken792

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 2, 2011
    4,481
    Fairfax, VA
    Is it cheaper than buying a complete gun or just for the fun of doing it yourself. If it's just for fun I get it having built 2 ARs myself. I took my time and found it very relaxing. Can you build a 17 long slide out of one of these?

    You can stick a 34 or 17L slide on the 17 style 80% frames with no issue.

    It's cheaper to just buy a complete gun. Used Gen 3s are dirt cheap, especially in free states. If you want to do an 80% build, the cheapest way is to find someone in a free state selling a full Gen 3 and pay their asking price, but have them keep the frame.

    There was a Gen 3 19 upper assembly on ARFcom this past weekend for $335 that had two year old night sights and only 50 rounds through it. When I sell off parts kits (full upper plus lower parts) with night sights, I usually get about $400 for them.
     

    Sewer Rat

    Ultimate Member
    Is it cheaper than buying a complete gun or just for the fun of doing it yourself. If it's just for fun I get it having built 2 ARs myself. I took my time and found it very relaxing. Can you build a 17 long slide out of one of these?

    Cheaper... not any more. That was my original intentions when I was one of the first pre-orders for the original spectre (V1)... then came the V1.5 to fix the trigger pocket issue... and now the V2, which is very similar to the compact.

    Right now, I have two V1s (17 and future for a mech-tech upper I am eyeballing), a V1.5 (17), a V2 (34); and three compacts (19).... careful, its addictive
     

    platoonDaddy

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 30, 2011
    4,125
    SouthOfBalto
    Cheaper... not any more. That was my original intentions when I was one of the first pre-orders for the original spectre (V1)... then came the V1.5 to fix the trigger pocket issue... and now the V2, which is very similar to the compact.

    Right now, I have two V1s (17 and future for a mech-tech upper I am eyeballing), a V1.5 (17), a V2 (34); and three compacts (19).... careful, its addictive

    Guy at our club is also addicted to the builds, he let me fondle his V1.5 compact G19. Really love the grip and texture of the lower. He has purchased all his from Midway.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    Yes, I would recommend having all the frame build parts and a complete slide on hand when you start milling the v1 frame.

    As I said previously, for $50 there's no real harm in doing a v1 frame, you'll gain valuable experience that will serve you well for any future builds, and if it works reliably, then just shoot it as long as you can, if it fails, no big deal, you can always strip the parts out and re-use them.

    There are a bunch of Youtube vids out there as well from people who did the v1, these could be a valuable resource during your build.

    The only caveat is if you happened to get an "old stock" early frame with the loose trigger housing mechanism cavity, that is most likely going to cause you problems, but many of us have dealt with it and can offer suggestions if it should become necessary. Good luck with your build and let us know how it goes..:thumbsup:

    Thanks! Probably a bad assumption that mine is newer, but since it seemed to be some of the last stock of V1.5 that Midway had it was either very recent fab, or else it has been sitting at the bottom of the pile for a LONG time.

    If it helps figure that out, it is specifically a pf940v1.5

    Is the difference between V1 and 1.5 fixing the loose trigger pocket issues?
     

    bbradshaw21

    Active Member
    Jun 14, 2016
    174
    Pikesville
    Cheaper... not any more. That was my original intentions when I was one of the first pre-orders for the original spectre (V1)... then came the V1.5 to fix the trigger pocket issue... and now the V2, which is very similar to the compact.

    Right now, I have two V1s (17 and future for a mech-tech upper I am eyeballing), a V1.5 (17), a V2 (34); and three compacts (19).... careful, its addictive

    Sewer - is the 34 slide worth the extra cost? my build is going to be mostly for range fun and maybe recreational 3 gun. i also may or may not be putting a red dot on the slide at some point.
     

    Shoobedoo

    US Army Veteran
    Jun 1, 2013
    10,973
    Keyser WV
    So my v2 full size frame arrived today, it took me about an hour more or less to complete, I took my sweet time and didn't rush things. I cut the "denial" blocks with the supplied end mill on a drill press, but used a Dremel with a Carbide cutting bit to finish the recoil spring channel. The only real issue I encountered was that the locking block was a very tight fit to the frame and took some coaxing to get it in, but I'd rather have it a little tight than too loose.

    For the most part standard Glock parts were used for completing the frame. Everything fits and functions just as it should, so I don't anticipate any major issues.

    The slide is obviously a G22 .40, but I have a Lone Wolf Stainless 9mm conversion barrel installed at the moment. Switching to .40 is a simple barrel and mag swap which takes all of about 30 seconds.

    The slide is topped with a Burris Fastfire III red dot and a Springer Precision dovetail mount. NOTE: Anyone considering a dovetail mount for a red dot, don't waste your money on the cheap 2 piece mounts seen at places like Ebay & Amazon, they will not hold zero, I've been there and done that.

    The grip on the frame is cut at a rather sharp angle at the heel, so I installed a Vickers Tactical grip plug/takedown tool, which I think gives it a much nicer, cleaner look.

    All that's left to do is range testing, the slide and optic have already been zeroed on another gun, so all I have to do is bang away.. :D When I get a chance I will post some target pics in a few days.
     

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    Shoobedoo

    US Army Veteran
    Jun 1, 2013
    10,973
    Keyser WV
    Thanks! Probably a bad assumption that mine is newer, but since it seemed to be some of the last stock of V1.5 that Midway had it was either very recent fab, or else it has been sitting at the bottom of the pile for a LONG time.

    If it helps figure that out, it is specifically a pf940v1.5

    Is the difference between V1 and 1.5 fixing the loose trigger pocket issues?

    Yes, I believe so, there are people around here that are more knowledgable about that than I am, but I believe v1.5 corrected the loss trigger housing mechanism cavity, so you should be fine.

    I only ever owned the early version, it definitely required shimming the front of the cavity or the gun simply wouldn't function, the looseness of the cavity made the trigger housing mechanism rock back and forth and caused it to bind on the slide. The shims weren't a perfect solution, but they did work.
     

    ken792

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 2, 2011
    4,481
    Fairfax, VA
    Yes. The 1.5 still has a little bit of looseness in it compared to a factory Glock frame, but it doesn't seem to affect function.
     

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