bullet dimensional diagrams

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  • ras_oscar

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 23, 2014
    1,667
    I have seen cartridge and case diagrams in SAAMI and the reloading manuals. Is there a source for similar diagrams on projectiles? I'd like to see the actual differences between, say a 308/147 gr and a 300 blackout?
     

    guzma393

    Active Member
    Jan 15, 2020
    748
    Severn, MD
    The only bullet diagrams I come across are those for cast bullet molds. Best thing to do is just to hit up the micrometer/calipers and analyze and log the bullet dimensions and feature you are using on a spreadsheet.
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    I have seen cartridge and case diagrams in SAAMI and the reloading manuals. Is there a source for similar diagrams on projectiles? I'd like to see the actual differences between, say a 308/147 gr and a 300 blackout?

    Ballistic charts/engineering drawings are out there especially for 30 cal bullets but not always easy to obtain or posses.
    Because of the richness of some of the information they contain they could be considered an embarrassment to some manufactures and modern writers.
    Reinventing the wheel and spoon feeding comes to mind if you ever have the opportunity to see some of them.
     

    ras_oscar

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 23, 2014
    1,667
    Sooo, With reloading components in short supply, I pulled the trigger on some .308/147gr bullets. I haven't received them yet. I suspect they are NOT boat tail. The .30 cal loads I have worked up previously (for .308 Win and 30-06/M1 Garand) both had a boat tail. I have conclude boat tail and non-boat tail projectiles are interchangeable because:

    1. The Lee manual has zero information on bullet shape, they only show the completed cartridge for dimensional purposes
    2. The Hornady manual has several bullets pictured for my particular weight, they show both boat tail and non boat tail above a common table of charges

    Please confirm or correct my conclusion
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    A prudent reloader would reduce the load by a few grains and work it back up.

    Just sayin'
     

    Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,370
    HoCo
    A prudent reloader would reduce the load by a few grains and work it back up.

    Just sayin'

    I have done what Pinecone suggests when changing mfg. Usually 2-3 loads at .2- .3gr increments starting about 1 grain below a rifle formula. If there were signs of overpressure, you would see them as you are working your way up.
    IF I took better notes I'd have kept chrono data on more than my final loads.

    FWIW, BT and Flat base Sierra Pro hunters have been almost interchangeable for me (within 100 yards). POI did require scope adjustments. For my Garand use, I've yet to find a 147-150fmj that did not chrono an average of 20fps with each other with my Garand formula. I just bang steel with those so if POI shifts an inch or so, don't care much. Heck, outdoor temp does that anyway.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,737
    I have done what Pinecone suggests when changing mfg. Usually 2-3 loads at .2- .3gr increments starting about 1 grain below a rifle formula. If there were signs of overpressure, you would see them as you are working your way up.
    IF I took better notes I'd have kept chrono data on more than my final loads.

    FWIW, BT and Flat base Sierra Pro hunters have been almost interchangeable for me (within 100 yards). POI did require scope adjustments. For my Garand use, I've yet to find a 147-150fmj that did not chrono an average of 20fps with each other with my Garand formula. I just bang steel with those so if POI shifts an inch or so, don't care much. Heck, outdoor temp does that anyway.

    I am early in reloading, but I’ve been doing that. Got an MTM reloading log book a week ago and transferred my notes from my loose leaf notebook to it to stay better organized. I am probably just going to reload the most accurate or powerful or good enough plinking load over and over. But I wanted to make sure I had it in my notes for as much “why” as anything. Or maybe I want to load a bunch of stout 147 9mm for something and then some plinking ones.

    Also notes like “loaded .960” COAL. Any longer hits the lands of Yugo model 70”.

    I’ve got a similar note for my Glock 17 with Swenson barrel (actually I think it is 1.000” or something like that with FMJ 115gr RMR bullets).

    Little things like that so when I go to play with a load I know the why’s instead of trying to remember them.
     

    ras_oscar

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 23, 2014
    1,667
    sooo.. my .308 bullets came today. They are indeed nonboat tail. They are also a smidge shorter than the .308 FMJ BT. The difference is from the canalure to the tip. The distance from the cananlure to the base is identical.

    My established COL with BT projectiles is as follows:

    308 2.810
    30-06 3.815

    BT projectiles are a total of 1.132 long
    Non BT are a total of 1.026 long
    from base of the bullet to top of cananlure is .356 for both.

    Am i correct to assume i should shorten up the COL for these bullets to maintain the seating depth and a ensure the case mouth falls at the canalure?
     

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