Those jigs are for people using routers and drill presses. I'm told the Gen 2 is the way to go if you plan to make different caliber lowers.
80% milling question
- Thread starter John from MD
- Start date
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Those jigs are for people using routers and drill presses. I'm told the Gen 2 is the way to go if you plan to make different caliber lowers.
CrazySanMan
2013'er
I have that jig, but I haven't used it yet so I can't comment on it. It is heavy and looks like it's very good quality. I found it on sale for $119, then an extra $45 for the tooling. I know I could have gone to Amazon and got the bits cheaper, but this was I get to see what they all are and I'll buy replacements down the road from Amazon.
larr
Active Member
I machined one out on my mill with a 5/16th end mill, it turned out fine but it took a lot longer then doing it in the jig. The gen 2 is the best one to get, the plate for the router has a bearing inside for the end mill bit so the bit never touches the side of the lower when milling.
Great Jig. Video on Youtube.
https://www.brokenarmory.com/product/ar15-lower-receiver-jig-jig-15/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPDAnld501Y
https://www.brokenarmory.com/product/ar15-lower-receiver-jig-jig-15/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPDAnld501Y
Rockzilla
Ultimate Member
about the easiest is the 5D Tactical Router Jig Pro with the Readymill which basically eliminates the mill working itself out.
The Easy Jig Gen 2 works also
then of course the old modulus Arms HD 2 jig
Got them all but prefer the 5D Tactical jig over the others.
It works good on Atomic Engraving 80% AR 9mm colt mag lowers.
sorry not into glock mag lowers
YMMV
Then some reading..good source
http://www.arlower.ray-vin.com/disclaimer.htm
have fun....
-Rock
The Easy Jig Gen 2 works also
then of course the old modulus Arms HD 2 jig
Got them all but prefer the 5D Tactical jig over the others.
It works good on Atomic Engraving 80% AR 9mm colt mag lowers.
sorry not into glock mag lowers
YMMV
Then some reading..good source
http://www.arlower.ray-vin.com/disclaimer.htm
have fun....
-Rock
honda53s
Ultimate Member
I want to buy a CNC machine now... 2018 tax write off. Lol
You better get one before the Commissars ban them. 
Gordon
Ultimate Member
I found it smoother to drill one hole and rout out. Less chance of mill end/chatter. And it took longer then 45 mins. that's for sure.
StantonCree
Watch your beer
- Jan 23, 2011
- 23,932
Between 80%’s and my 4’ holesaw bit i dunno how my cordless drill is still alive lol
I have the 5D Tactical Jig and did my first 80% lower this weekend. That jig works the way you described...by drilling a deep 3/8th" then using the end mill in a router to lower the "floor" of the Fire Control Group well until it's full depth. We worked on that one lower for almost 3 hours, but it included a lot of setup time and thoroughly reading the directions for each step since this was our first experience machining a lower. We also had to do time-wasting things like finding which vise could handle the width of the assembled jig and getting the drill press work-table perfectly level and finding the right vise for the job. Probably the biggest time-waster was that we also had to chase the threads for the pins in the router baseplate. The 6-32 socket-head screws wouldn't thread down into the bushings. At first we thought we were doing something wrong, but ultimately I had to find a tap and run it down into the bushings to be able to screw the pilot pins to the baseplate without breaking one off. That would have caused a heap of problems!
The next time through I'm confident it will take less than an hour.
BTW -- John from MD: Thanks for the coolant. It worked great!
JoeR
Da nada.
rog951
Active Member
You better get one before the Commissars ban them.
We’ll I guess it’s a good thing that you can build your own CNC router to make your own lowers.
https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=196818
End Mill useful life?
=== Thread revival and new questions ===
I've done 2 lowers with the 5D Tactical jig and I've got a question about the useful life of their end mills before they're either too damaged or worn to continue, as well as ideas for how to extend that life.
On the first lower, I know I messed up by trying a "plunge cut" to clean up the bottom of the trigger well which damaged the end mill. On the second lower with a new mill, I was much more careful about not forcing it into the work, but I can see that it's visibly worn. However, it's still usable and will start another lower with it. I know in the 5D documentation, they state getting 3 lowers per mill. Has anyone gotten to that level, and if so, what techniques were used to extend the useful life of the mill?
FWIW, the router is the recommended Dewalt compact router running at its highest speed setting, per their instructions. And for cutting fluid/coolant, I'm using Syn-Cool in a sprayer bottle.
Joe
=== Thread revival and new questions ===
I've done 2 lowers with the 5D Tactical jig and I've got a question about the useful life of their end mills before they're either too damaged or worn to continue, as well as ideas for how to extend that life.
On the first lower, I know I messed up by trying a "plunge cut" to clean up the bottom of the trigger well which damaged the end mill. On the second lower with a new mill, I was much more careful about not forcing it into the work, but I can see that it's visibly worn. However, it's still usable and will start another lower with it. I know in the 5D documentation, they state getting 3 lowers per mill. Has anyone gotten to that level, and if so, what techniques were used to extend the useful life of the mill?
FWIW, the router is the recommended Dewalt compact router running at its highest speed setting, per their instructions. And for cutting fluid/coolant, I'm using Syn-Cool in a sprayer bottle.
Joe
HSS mills will only last so long at the speed those routers are running. If you want to spend the money, you can get cobalt or TiN coated which will last longer.
The stock end mill used on the first lower is advertised as solid carbide. The second mill was solid carbide with a ZrN coating. The jig is designed to use 5/16" end mills with a 1/4" shank to fit the collet of the Dewalt router.
JoeR
You are using carbide mills and still tearing them up? Wow, it must be the speed of the router. 
You are using carbide mills and still tearing them up? Wow, it must be the speed of the router.
Yup, the instructions say to use the highest speed possible, up to 30K rpm.
JoeR
jjones88
Active Member
well there's your problem... I don't run my mills above 1k on my mill (for aluminum). Most cutting is done around 500-700 rpm for anything over 1/4".
30k without continual lubricant will fry them in a blink of an eye.
30k without continual lubricant will fry them in a blink of an eye.
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