Class/training to build an AR-15

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  • ted76

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 20, 2013
    3,151
    Frederick
    I built my first AR 15 by watching some YouTube and some other videos.
    Then I took Chad's Armors class and found how much I didn't know.
    He showed me that my 7.63 X 39 upper build had a 6.5 Grendel bolt in it.
    The bolt carrier group was sold to me as a 7.62 x 39 set.
    One hot load could have blown up in my face.
    He corrected the issue at a bargain price.
    I highly recommend at least watching his videos before you even start buying parts.
    It's not really hard to build a AR15 starting with stripped upper and lower receivers, it takes some special tools and patience. I highly recommend that you buy a extra spring and detent kit before you start, as you will launch springs and detents, as you will lose some . Try to remove your spring parts with your receiver a gallon baggie to avoid losing parts spring loaded parts.
     

    Mr.Culper

    Active Member
    Jan 16, 2021
    858
    Thanks,
    I think you are right about buying individual tools,, appears most kits nay have a few decent tools, then they load the kit up with cheap junk to "round it off"

    I have small brass/poly hammers, standard pin punches, etc.
    I'll get an AR wrench, set of roll pin punches and a "clamping block"

    Then see what else I need

    My preference is to buy individual pieces, instead of a kit as some manufacturers' versions are much better than others. I'm particular about tools, and would often prefer to have the best tool for the job, or the tool that fits me best, instead of a tool that's somewhat adequate, and was chosen to make a kit meet a price point.

    If you're looking at buying individual pieces, the "SOTAR AR Tool, Gauge and Jig List" is a great place to start:

    https://m.facebook.com/SchooloftheAmericanRifle/posts/2169330400026519
     

    teratos

    My hair is amazing
    MDS Supporter
    Patriot Picket
    Jan 22, 2009
    59,775
    Bel Air
    Lots of kits out there, but for a vise either

    https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/MI-Upper-Receiver-Rod-p/mi-urr.htm

    Or Magpul Bev Block

    Clamshell sucks and the Geissele rod is almost as bad.

    Agree, and I own all of the stuff mentioned above.

    The MI URR is the best. I like it better than the Bev Block, which is a close second, IMO. Clamshell blows. Geissele reaction rod can introduce problems with shearing the index pin on a barrel, loosening a barrel extension etc.
     

    DZ

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 9, 2005
    4,091
    Mount Airy, MD
    Agree, and I own all of the stuff mentioned above.

    The MI URR is the best. I like it better than the Bev Block, which is a close second, IMO. Clamshell blows. Geissele reaction rod can introduce problems with shearing the index pin on a barrel, loosening a barrel extension etc.
    Agreed. I bought the clamshell with insert back when that was all that was available. The Geissele RR was a big improvement on that. Now the MI URR is on the list.
     

    Mursey

    Member
    Aug 23, 2017
    32
    @DaemonAssassin helped me, and she still shoots straight, but if you want a more class-based builder's course, then see all of the above.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
     

    Ilexopaca

    Member
    Mar 4, 2012
    69
    If you want to pool resources and do a build together I might be game. I'm ready for a build myself - have most of the parts. As for tools, I have some - like a torque wrench, bench vise, AR wrench, punches, etc, but I don't have an MI URR, etc. With the exception of headspace issues, I feel fairly confident about the process from watching a ton of videos. In any regard please post a follow-up and let us know how it goes. It doesn't look like rocket science to me. I've restored a few dilapidated firearms in my day, some very complex, but I don't have any AR build experience.
     

    SkiPatrolDude

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Oct 24, 2017
    3,331
    Timonium-Lutherville
    Agree, and I own all of the stuff mentioned above.

    The MI URR is the best. I like it better than the Bev Block, which is a close second, IMO. Clamshell blows. Geissele reaction rod can introduce problems with shearing the index pin on a barrel, loosening a barrel extension etc.

    I think this is a problem / myth that is largely overblown.

    I have personally never had an issue with using the Geissele reaction rod for barrel nut/ barrel installs.

    I see the value in the MI rod and understand the logic here, but if done right I just don't see an issue using a standard reaction rod that engages the barrel extension splines.

    I've never come close to shearing a pin or had a barrel that was not indexed properly due to torque applied to the barrel extension through the rod.
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    I have witnessed index pin and upper receiver damage via a Reaction Rod countless times. I could fill several 5 gallon buckets with the bad barrels and uppers.

    An Upper Level Geissele Employee used the Midwest URR when he attended my class recently. He had the option to select the Geissele RR.

    You all are free to use what you like but there is little price difference between the RR and URR. Break one part with a RR and you will wish you chose an different tool.

    Another added benefit of the URR is that it works as a barrel extension clocking gauge. The RR does not.
     
    Last edited:

    teratos

    My hair is amazing
    MDS Supporter
    Patriot Picket
    Jan 22, 2009
    59,775
    Bel Air
    I think this is a problem / myth that is largely overblown.

    I have personally never had an issue with using the Geissele reaction rod for barrel nut/ barrel installs.

    I see the value in the MI rod and understand the logic here, but if done right I just don't see an issue using a standard reaction rod that engages the barrel extension splines.

    I've never come close to shearing a pin or had a barrel that was not indexed properly due to torque applied to the barrel extension through the rod.

    I agree…rare problem. I sheared an index pin on a Bear Creek barrel, so take it for what it’s worth. The URR just gives a little insurance.
     

    whistlersmother

    Peace through strength
    Jan 29, 2013
    8,948
    Fulton, MD
    So, what's the better option for buffer tube holders when torqueing castle nuts?

    I managed to chew up threads on the tube and have the stock cantered by not realizing I needed to hold the stock steady.

    I would prefer a jig or holder of some type instead of the eyeball/hold it method. But, a more well-known upper assembler at the gunshots never heard of such a thing and just holds the stock by hand.

    I see some 3D printed versions, the Geiselle for $$$, presentarms system $$$$, and the KZ from botch (which I thought is a difficult vendor).

    https://botach.com/kz-ar15-m4-receiver-extension-buffer-tube-block/

    Are the jig/buffer vice blocks an unnecessary solution looking for a problem?
     

    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    49,818
    I had a friend print this up for me...
     

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    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    So, what's the better option for buffer tube holders when torqueing castle nuts?

    I managed to chew up threads on the tube and have the stock cantered by not realizing I needed to hold the stock steady.

    I would prefer a jig or holder of some type instead of the eyeball/hold it method. But, a more well-known upper assembler at the gunshots never heard of such a thing and just holds the stock by hand.

    I see some 3D printed versions, the Geiselle for $$$, presentarms system $$$$, and the KZ from botch (which I thought is a difficult vendor).

    https://botach.com/kz-ar15-m4-receiver-extension-buffer-tube-block/

    Are the jig/buffer vice blocks an unnecessary solution looking for a problem?

    The only foolproof method to preventing buffer tube clocking it a dual vise setup, a geissele reaction block, a pivot lock & hold, but It's not cheap. I have a video showing the setup.

    There a new jig coming out to hold the Buffer Tube and Lower as one piece that won't break the bank.

    I'm doing T&E for it right now for a well know Manufacturer. Some of my students have used it but they are not permitted to take photos.
     

    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    49,818
    I normally pre-cant the tube and go slow from there. There's usually a point where the tube gets tight enough to not move. That is when I apply the real pressure.
     

    engineerbrian

    JMB fan club
    Sep 3, 2010
    10,148
    Fredneck
    The only foolproof method to preventing buffer tube clocking it a dual vise setup, a geissele reaction block, a pivot lock & hold, but It's not cheap. I have a video showing the setup.

    There a new jig coming out to hold the Buffer Tube and Lower as one piece that won't break the bank.

    I'm doing T&E for it right now for a well know Manufacturer. Some of my students have used it but they are not permitted to take photos.

    I cant wait to see if this new jig is put out on the market. Clocking the buffer tube has always been my biggest hurdle on a build.
     

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