Suppressor Booster

Melnic · Oct 22, 2021

OK,
I think I asked this on another thread and can't find it cause it was a while back so asking again.....

so IF I had a 9mm suppressor with a booster.
That is for use in say a locked breech pistol G19 or G17 in my hypothetical example.
I don't need that for say a 9mm PCC like a blow back Sub 2K for example
But what if the booster is installed when putting it on the PCC.
Does something get damaged?

camo556 · Oct 22, 2021

I have never done this. I have seen videos where they do this, with no problem. Booster is just a spring in a housing. If you put the booster on a rifle the whole thing will move. Worst thing I can see is if you put a booster on a rifle and it erodes the booster housing (after a few k rounds).

I am trying to find the video review of a new suppressor i saw recently where they only had the booster and ran it on the rifle anyway. I will eventually find it.

F-Stop · Oct 22, 2021

If I remember correctly the booster moves the whole suppresser forward under the spring tension and the return home on fixed barrels causes increased wear on threads.

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camo556 · Oct 22, 2021

the other thing that might be possible, in theory anyway, is that if the piston does not 100% reset the bore could no longer concentric, leading to a baffle and end cap strike. That is also possible on the pistol though.

woodline · Oct 22, 2021

Do not shoot a can with a booster on it on a fixed barrel PCC such as a sub2000 without either replacing the spring in the booster with a fixed barrel spacer OR replacing the entire booster assembly with a direct thread/trilug/QD muzzle device adapter.

mtlcafan79 · Oct 22, 2021

woodline · Oct 22, 2021

mtlcafan79 said:

Yep, pretty much.

camo556 · Oct 22, 2021

found it.

So if you watch carefully, say @3:52 and 7:58 they are running the MP5 with a booster not a fixed spacer.Also at the end they do a sound test and you can clearly see it where they run it with a booster in the short K config. You can see the suppressor moving back and forth. They say somewhere in the video its because they got an early copy and not recommended.

Sometimes "t=" works to set the youtube to the right time... sometimes not. I have not figured out the code. In any case scroll to the times I mentioned in the video to see the can moving.

I am not saying to run out and do this. Clearly, it might be hard on the threads etc etc. But in this video they run it with the booster for a fair number of rounds in various configs and its harmless.

woodline · Oct 22, 2021

Do what you want but it’s a bad idea, and bad form to advise others to do it on the internet. Best case scenario you don’t get baffle strikes and you just cause premature thread and spring wear on your expensive suppressor and booster. Worst case scenario you get a catastrophic failure and your bullet (or part of it) flies out the side of the tube and destroys your serial number. Companies like Dead Air will take care of you, but not everyone is so lenient with their warranty when you deliberately ignore manufacturer instructions. It seems to me that if you don’t have time to wait for the right part to come in stock to use the suppressor correctly, you definitely don’t have time to wait for another form 4 approval.

alucard0822 · Oct 22, 2021

On a handgun, the pressure and spring are balanced so the can doesn't really move, the barrel and piston moves back the 1/4" or so to uncouple, and then everything lines back up when the next round chambers. On a fixed barrel, the pressure blows the can forward with full force and hammers the piston housing. It will tear the O-ring fast and start egging it out. Basically don't do it.

Melnic · Oct 22, 2021

alucard0822 said:
On a handgun, the pressure and spring are balanced so the can doesn't really move, the barrel and piston moves back the 1/4" or so to uncouple, and then everything lines back up when the next round chambers. On a fixed barrel, the pressure blows the can forward with full force and hammers the piston housing. It will tear the O-ring fast and start egging it out. Basically don't do it.

That is the explanation that I was looking for.
Thanks

Melnic · Oct 24, 2021

While on the subject, do you guys thing this will handle a 350 legend rifle?
Or should I be taking a 30 cal can and oversize drill outs?
https://www.quietbore.com/product/9mm-form1-kit/

camo556 · Oct 24, 2021

I have not received an email from them, but my plan is 556 or 30 cal internals for 350 legend.

Glaron · Oct 24, 2021

If anyone wishes to rid themselves of a booster that fits a G19... Im listening.

camo556 · Oct 24, 2021

Add: the quiet bore 9mm internals say either steel or aluminum, the tube is aluminum. The 556/30 cal internals are "heat treated steel" and tube is steel. Also the 556/30 cal are bigger volume. For a rifle round like 350 legend, not sure I trust aluminum to hold up. I am not mag dumping or anything, but things get pretty hot even sighting in.

Melnic · Oct 24, 2021

camo556 said:
Add: the quiet bore 9mm internals say either steel or aluminum, the tube is aluminum. The 556/30 cal internals are "heat treated steel" and tube is steel. Also the 556/30 cal are bigger volume. For a rifle round like 350 legend, not sure I trust aluminum to hold up. I am not mag dumping or anything, but things get pretty hot even sighting in.

I do have a 30 cal tube I have not finished, was originally thinking I'll drill out larger holes suitable for 350L

camo556 · Oct 26, 2021

lmao I got this reply:

Being that we sell solvent traps we can only comment on our products ability to clean. For reviews and additional info we recommend YouTube and end user web forums.

teratos · Nov 10, 2021

camo556 said:
Add: the quiet bore 9mm internals say either steel or aluminum, the tube is aluminum. The 556/30 cal internals are "heat treated steel" and tube is steel. Also the 556/30 cal are bigger volume. For a rifle round like 350 legend, not sure I trust aluminum to hold up. I am not mag dumping or anything, but things get pretty hot even sighting in.

Aluminum will erode very quickly with .350 legend and other supersonic rifle rounds. Tube needs to be steel or titanium. First should be a strong blast chamber/baffle. Stainless is good. 17-4PH or inconel would be better. Can do subsequent baffles in 304 stainless or similar.

teratos · Nov 10, 2021

Check out these “barrel shrouds”. Titanium tubes at a reasonable price. Choose your end caps.

https://sdtacticalarms.com/product-category/sdta-products/barrel-shrouds-maglite-battery-extender/

BUFF7MM · Nov 10, 2021

teratos said:
Check out these “barrel shrouds”. Titanium tubes at a reasonable price. Choose your end caps.

https://sdtacticalarms.com/product-category/sdta-products/barrel-shrouds-maglite-battery-extender/

+1
This is where I got my titanium form 1 project, that thing is a lightweight beast.

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