Rifle sup. selection asst reqested

I want to get a 30 cal suppressor and need help in selecting one.

1. I want to buy from SS since they already have all my stuff.
2. It has to be user serviceable as I will be mostly shooting lead and PC bullets through it.
3. It has to be able to handle full caliber power as I shoot more supers than subs.


Here are the three I found at SS that I am interested in.

Griffin Paladin 300
Griffin Optimus
Deadair Nimad Ti

I plan to use this on a 300 Blackout AR pistol and rifle as well as a .223 AR rifle.

No matter which one I get, will I have to get an adapter for the other two rifles? I am kind of confused with all the muzzle stuff related to suppresors. I do know that the barrel has to be threaded concentric with the bore.

Just to confirm: are you aware that the Dead Air suppressor you listed does not have removable baffles? It’s a “sealed” suppressor aka not user serviceable in the manner you mentioned.

If you want to use SilencerShop and need the rifle can to be user serviceable, Griffin Armament is the only game in town. The Paladin will likely perform better than the Optimus in sound reduction for the cartridges you listed, but the Optimus gives you a lot of versatility. Same for the Bushwhacker 46 if you haven’t looked at that.

If you are going with Griffin Armament, the easiest thing to do is buy a taper mount muzzle device per firearm you want to use it on, MINUS the one that comes with the suppressor. So if you wanted to use it on 3 rifles, you would need to buy two more. I like Griffin muzzle devices a lot, and am happy to provide recommendations on which to buy if you have trouble deciding. Be aware that they have a good mil/veteran/first responder discount if you sign up for their GI program.

fbi_surveillance_van said:

Just to confirm: are you aware that the Dead Air suppressor you listed does not have removable baffles? It’s a “sealed” suppressor aka not user serviceable in the manner you mentioned.

If you want to use SilencerShop and need the rifle can to be user serviceable, Griffin Armament is the only game in town. The Paladin will likely perform better than the Optimus in sound reduction for the cartridges you listed, but the Optimus gives you a lot of versatility. Same for the Bushwhacker 46 if you haven’t looked at that.

If you are going with Griffin Armament, the easiest thing to do is buy a taper mount muzzle device per firearm you want to use it on, MINUS the one that comes with the suppressor. So if you wanted to use it on 3 rifles, you would need to buy two more. I like Griffin muzzle devices a lot, and am happy to provide recommendations on which to buy if you have trouble deciding. Be aware that they have a good mil/veteran/first responder discount if you sign up for their GI program.

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I was just going by what the description said on Silencer Shops web page.

https://www.silencershop.com/silencers/7-62mm-rifle/dead-air-nomad-ti.html

John from MD said:

I was just going by what the description said on Silencer Shops web page.

https://www.silencershop.com/silencers/7-62mm-rifle/dead-air-nomad-ti.html

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They mess up their descriptions quite frequently. For instance that page talks about the 17-4 stainless steel baffles, on a titanium suppressor. Because they just copied and pasted the stuff from the regular Nomad.

At any rate, you can’t remove the baffles from any Dead Air rifle cans that I am aware of. The nomad series in particular is a “welded tubeless” design, meaning the outside of the baffles = the outside of the suppressor. There’s no sleeve over it.

fbi_surveillance_van said:

They mess up their descriptions quite frequently. For instance that page talks about the 17-4 stainless steel baffles, on a titanium suppressor. Because they just copied and pasted the stuff from the regular Nomad.

At any rate, you can’t remove the baffles from any Dead Air rifle cans that I am aware of. The nomad series in particular is a “welded tubeless” design, meaning the outside of the baffles = the outside of the suppressor. There’s no sleeve over it.

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Thanks for the info on the VET/LEO program, I just filled out the form. They also have a promotion going until Aug 31 where you get a free adapter or other accessory (chose from a list) if you buy a Griffin Suppressor before then.

I really believe that the griffin taper mount system is one of the best on the market. I shoot a dimesize group that is exactly repeatable using it. (impact is .7mil down from non suppressed on 6.5 RPR)

TrappedinMD said:

I really believe that the griffin taper mount system is one of the best on the market. I shoot a dimesize group that is exactly repeatable using it. (impact is .7mil down from non suppressed on 6.5 RPR)

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That's pretty impressive!

I own an Optimus, was my first can. It's really best as a 9mm 3 lug PCC can. In 30 cal config you have the choice between a really long 8" with the minimalist taper mount and 30cal blast baffle, sounds good though. If you use the short 6.5" config with plan A adapter(installs in booster housing, only 5 9mm baffles, no 30cal blast baffle) it's pretty loud, not close to hearing safe with supers. It helped get me into suppressors, and gave me something to compare it to.

The Paladin is a solid can, but a bit more expensive / larger/ heavier with the same performance as their Explorr I ended up with. It beats the Optimus and paladin in interior volume, size and weight. Sounds great on 300BO, no barrel length restrictions, just a simple solid can of reasonable size. It's a tubeless welded can in order to accomplish that. I wouldn't worry too much about it being "non serviceable", it gets a little dirty, gets noticeably quieter, then never really gets any worse. If I shoot a lot of subs, then throw it on my 16" 308 or something high pressure, small flakes of fouling literally shake out of the can after, and it noticeably knocks down the coating visible on the blast baffle. Worst case if you absolutely have to clean it(if you shoot supers, most likely you don't), cork the muzzle end, fill it with "the dip" overnight, dump it and flush out the goo in the morning.

I Did kinda like the versatility of the Optimus, but the really long length and small interior volume is an obstacle. Ended up buying a SiCo Omega 36M(currently in NFA jail), demo'ed one and it's awesome, in full length it's basically similar size/performance to the Exlporr, in K-config it is much smaller, and still has good performance, much better than the Optimus with short config/plan A. Griffin makes a plan A adapter for it(and many other cans) so my taper mount stuff will work with it. It's better than the Optimus in most ways, the performance to size is great, but being tubeless it isn't "serviceable", but after living with both options, I know that isn't as big of a deal as it seems.

As far as muzzle devices, that is what sold me on Griffin stuff in the first place, their taper mounts are really simple, really solid, keeps a small OAL/low weight, inexpensive and there is a large variety with great performance from the brakes/ flash hiders when running unsuppressed. No access to the mount needed so tucking cans under rails is fine. Just snug them up by hand, shoot, wait till it cools, then remove. Takes about 3 turns to lock, inherently concentric, and tightens up as you shoot/barrel gets hot, so they NEVER back off. Sometimes they are tough to remove from a hot rifle and you have to wait till it cools a little, but they won't seize. Have to watch the length on some though, the Optimus mid-size config can only take a 1.9" muzzle device, the paladin brake barely fits, the Hammer comp barely hits. The 36M plan-a can take 2" so the hammer comp works with that, Dead air and the YHM nitro 20 plan A are a little shorter, only work with the small minimalist ezbrake and flash hider. I LOVE the new linear com on 300 blackout, it works as advertised, pushing the blast forward, but seems to also function as an extra baffle when suppressed making it noticeably quieter than the flash hider I was using before the linear comp came in. Also seems to add backpressure, built a short 6" 300BO, with it, it cycles unsuppressed subs(still won't lock on an empty mag), with the flash hider it only cycled about 3/4 of subsonics, not enough gas in the short dwell. No real change in ejection or backpressure when suppressed with subs or suppressed/unsuppressed supers, they all run 100% with good 3:00-4:00 ejection.

alucard0822 said:

I wouldn't worry too much about it being "non serviceable", it gets a little dirty, gets noticeably quieter, then never really gets any worse.

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Does that include lead bullets? I make my own bullets and, with the exception of .223, shoot mostly lead or powder coated when I get time to coat them.

For the 30 can, I would probably be shooting 80 to 90 percent 150gn lead/PC bullets. Would shooting a few 300 BO jacketed bullets serve to clean out the lead as well as the carbon build up? I plan to buy a good ultrasonic cleaner to clean my .22 and 9mm cans and am hoping to do the same with the .30 cal.

My suggestion would be to reach out to the vendors, Dead Air in particular, to see what they think. Personally it would be a concern for me, though I do have a Wolfman for PCC use, and it is sealed.

John from MD said:

Does that include lead bullets? I make my own bullets and, with the exception of .223, shoot mostly lead or powder coated when I get time to coat them.

For the 30 can, I would probably be shooting 80 to 90 percent 150gn lead/PC bullets. Would shooting a few 300 BO jacketed bullets serve to clean out the lead as well as the carbon build up? I plan to buy a good ultrasonic cleaner to clean my .22 and 9mm cans and am hoping to do the same with the .30 cal.

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In rifle calibers yes, provided they are a decently clean load. Lube and poly coating will burn out if you shoot supers every so often. That is all a good lead load will leave anyway, if you are getting lead streaking or exposure under the coating, there is something wrong and it could build up lead in the can, and the gas system, and the BCG and pretty much everywhere else you don't want it. I would definitely favor coated bullets instead of cast/lubed though. Carbon never really builds up, it gets to a thin layer then if it gets thicker it breaks up and blows out. IMO if you shoot mostly lead/PC subs and a few jacketed supers, then no problem, probably would never have to clean the can.

If something goes wrong and you get measurable weight gain or fouling, then a silicone cork on the muzzle end and fill it with the dip overnight sitting upright will dissolve any fouling, leaving the inside clean and outer coating intact. Some use ultrasonics or other stuff and drop the whole can in, but if it's actually fouled enough to be needed, and cleaned effectively inside with the whole can in the cleaner, it will strip the coating on the outside too. Worst case if there is serious fouling, then you can send it back, the factory will clean it or repair it if there was enough fouling to cause a baffle strike or something. I do use a 1: brush in a drill to keep the taper mount and blast chamber clean, really the only "maintenence" needed for rifle cans anyway.

.223 or .30 cal and user serviceable are typically mutually exclusive. That Griffin stuff is an exception. Everything else is typically welded. Lead = you can't use welded cans. Toss the idea of using that Nomad.

The important decision you need to make right now is muzzle devices. If it was me and I was starting from scratch I'd look into cans that can take keymo mounts and/or an adapter to run keymo mounts. You've got lots of options from 3rd parties when you do that.

Honestly it sounds like you should be shopping for at least two different suppressors and getting two that are good at what they do vs a jack of all trades, master of none setup. I run 300 blk subs through a 9mm pistol can. 300blk in a semi was honestly disappointing and I switched to shooting subs only through a single shot setup.

Keymo is a great mounting system for heavy use (like machine gun or belt fed use), but you pay a serious weight penalty. It is also pretty expensive. I typically recommend the Griffin taper mounts for general use (anything up to reasonable select fire use), or the Area 419 modular Hellfire system if your cans support it. But since OP is already considering Griffin Armament suppressors, it seems ridiculous to go with anything besides the native Taper Mount setup.