Electro-etching

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  • KIBarrister

    Opinionated Libertarian
    MDS Supporter
    Apr 10, 2013
    3,923
    Kent Island/Centreville
    Aluminium works well also! (Still wet from rinsing in pics)
     

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    teratos

    My hair is amazing
    MDS Supporter
    Patriot Picket
    Jan 22, 2009
    59,775
    Bel Air
    Thanks, Doc! Definitely transfer paper! And it is a bit tedious to get small details to peel (take your time; folding the liner under helps as you go).

    Thanks!! I’m ridiculously excited. I’ve spent a ton on stencils!
     

    Mr.Culper

    Active Member
    Jan 16, 2021
    858
    Do you use a "picking tool" to peel small letters out ??
    My son and I had access to a large format vinyl cutter and he was making screen stencils for teshirts.

    Is this process the same?
     

    KIBarrister

    Opinionated Libertarian
    MDS Supporter
    Apr 10, 2013
    3,923
    Kent Island/Centreville
    Thanks!! I’m ridiculously excited. I’ve spent a ton on stencils!

    Absolutely! If you run into any issues hit me up (I don’t see that happening, it’s pretty user friendly both machine and software, but I’m happy to help if you do hit an issue).

    What is your etching setup?

    I’ve been contemplating trying to home anodize that last lower, but decided I’m going to try Norrell’s Moly Resin (decision to lay out for a proper airbrush was aided by realizing the burnt bronze color is quite close to the TiCN PVD on my 2011 barrel; I’m going to try a random spare thumb safety to see how they match and abuse it a little but if it’s good I’m going to coat the controls)
     

    KIBarrister

    Opinionated Libertarian
    MDS Supporter
    Apr 10, 2013
    3,923
    Kent Island/Centreville
    Do you use a "picking tool" to peel small letters out ??
    My son and I had access to a large format vinyl cutter and he was making screen stencils for teshirts.

    Is this process the same?

    I have some med kit tweezers with a super fine point I’ve been using (though I imagine a proper “picking tool” might make things easier). Process I would imagine would be similar...
     

    Mr.Culper

    Active Member
    Jan 16, 2021
    858
    I found the following video,


    he puts the tape/film on the piece to be etched then uses a laser to "cut away" the area to be etched.
    That would bypass the "picking" and transferring,, but would require a laser.
    He then used paint as a stencil,,,
    I do have access to a 30w epalog laser,,, I may have to try it.
    I think one of the small diode laser engravers (3-7 watt) sold on ebay or amazon would have enough power to "cut" the film?

    Thinking, put the film on the item to be etched,, burn the pattern, etch it.
     

    KIBarrister

    Opinionated Libertarian
    MDS Supporter
    Apr 10, 2013
    3,923
    Kent Island/Centreville
    I found the following video,


    he puts the tape/film on the piece to be etched then uses a laser to "cut away" the area to be etched.
    That would bypass the "picking" and transferring,, but would require a laser.
    He then used paint as a stencil,,,
    I do have access to a 30w epalog laser,,, I may have to try it.
    I think one of the small diode laser engravers (3-7 watt) sold on ebay or amazon would have enough power to "cut" the film?

    Thinking, put the film on the item to be etched,, burn the pattern, etch it.


    If you’re going to do it that way, clear nail polish then engrave away the nail polish ;)

    I considered it, but I couldn’t think of a way to say a balsa wood engraver was something my wife and daughters could use too.
     

    teratos

    My hair is amazing
    MDS Supporter
    Patriot Picket
    Jan 22, 2009
    59,775
    Bel Air
    Absolutely! If you run into any issues hit me up (I don’t see that happening, it’s pretty user friendly both machine and software, but I’m happy to help if you do hit an issue).

    What is your etching setup?

    I’ve been contemplating trying to home anodize that last lower, but decided I’m going to try Norrell’s Moly Resin (decision to lay out for a proper airbrush was aided by realizing the burnt bronze color is quite close to the TiCN PVD on my 2011 barrel; I’m going to try a random spare thumb safety to see how they match and abuse it a little but if it’s good I’m going to coat the controls)
    I have used moly resin on a couple of lowers. Holds op pretty well. Not as durable as Cerakote.

    I got a DC power supply from Amazon. I use salt and water. Typically I try to enclose the entire area to be etched so I can make a water reservoir. I’ll either fold tape, or make a “lake” with modeling clay. Black on lower, and use an old drill bit or other metal in the red. Put the metal in the water, and off it goes.
     

    KIBarrister

    Opinionated Libertarian
    MDS Supporter
    Apr 10, 2013
    3,923
    Kent Island/Centreville
    I have used moly resin on a couple of lowers. Holds op pretty well. Not as durable as Cerakote.

    I got a DC power supply from Amazon. I use salt and water. Typically I try to enclose the entire area to be etched so I can make a water reservoir. I’ll either fold tape, or make a “lake” with modeling clay. Black on lower, and use an old drill bit or other metal in the red. Put the metal in the water, and off it goes.

    I’d seen some guys using hot glue to form a “dam” - but yeah that will absolutely work with vinyl. What kind of depth are you getting on aluminium? I ended up going with a purpose built machine to make sure I could get sufficient depth on stainless but AFAIK a lawnmower battery will get good results on relatively softer metal. Are you sure about the polarity? My machine clips on red and black does the etching (though I intentionally state color rather than polarity because my machine switches between ac and dc to mark and etch respectively and I’ll be candid that I don’t know if they utilize the same polarity [second] though I understand the mechanism of action on AC it wouldn’t matter)?
     

    teratos

    My hair is amazing
    MDS Supporter
    Patriot Picket
    Jan 22, 2009
    59,775
    Bel Air
    I’d seen some guys using hot glue to form a “dam” - but yeah that will absolutely work with vinyl. What kind of depth are you getting on aluminium? I ended up going with a purpose built machine to make sure I could get sufficient depth on stainless but AFAIK a lawnmower battery will get good results on relatively softer metal. Are you sure about the polarity? My machine clips on red and black does the etching (though I intentionally state color rather than polarity because my machine switches between ac and dc to mark and etch respectively and I’ll be candid that I don’t know if they utilize the same polarity [second] though I understand the mechanism of action on AC it wouldn’t matter)?

    You are right, I reversed polarity. (it was early). Black for etching. I get very good depth. Sufficient for NFA an perfect for what I want. If you keep going, the etching eventually gets a little "fuzzy: I've never done marking, but it makes sense. Reverse polarity and instead of metal being chewed through, it gets laid down.

    I have THIS

    No clue of the settings, I just turn it up to 11 and it works.

    Dogfight Ink will miss me. I've spent hundreds.
     

    KIBarrister

    Opinionated Libertarian
    MDS Supporter
    Apr 10, 2013
    3,923
    Kent Island/Centreville
    You are right, I reversed polarity. (it was early). Black for etching. I get very good depth. Sufficient for NFA an perfect for what I want. If you keep going, the etching eventually gets a little "fuzzy: I've never done marking, but it makes sense. Reverse polarity and instead of metal being chewed through, it gets laid down.

    I have THIS

    No clue of the settings, I just turn it up to 11 and it works.

    Dogfight Ink will miss me. I've spent hundreds.

    To be fair, I just crank my machine to the highest setting; it is not marked to identify volatage/amperes. But it will heat up the part very fast. 150f at least within 15 seconds. As I think on it, your dam method will work pretty darn good with vinyl stencils (and without concern of displacing the small interior bits).

    I contemplated trying cerakote but my understanding is it is far less forgiving and much easier to overspray and be left with a layer that could potentially mess with tolerances. Seeing they had a color that might match my PVD parts sealed the deal :)
     

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