Vz.52 Rifle Vs. Sks

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

  • No ad networks!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • Ikaros240

    Member
    Aug 11, 2020
    76
    If you will be shooting it often I'd say the sks for parts and ammo, but if not the vz for sure. You can still find the sks easily but the vz not as mcuch
     
    case comparison

    Only for FYI if there is any interest. These are relevant cartridges for comparison. left to right;

    Factory military 7.62x45, cleaned primed and ready to load military steel case, My manufactured brass boxer primed 7.62x45, 7.62x39 mil, 7.62x39 loaded with .223 sabot( also do the 7.62x45), 7.62NATO(308Win). I have gotten as many as 5 reloads from the steel cases before they crack at the neck. Normally I get about three or four. I remove the Berdan primer by making a steel shaft which fits snugly into the spent cartridge using your fingers. I place the shaft end into a drill press. I fill the case with antifreeze and place it into a empty tuna can on top of a LEE decaping slug. I place this under the drill press head and put the shaft into the neck and press down. The hydraulic pressure blows the spent cap from the pocket. All the antifreeze stays in the tuna can. Once the can gets about half or so full I just empty it and reuse the antifreeze. It it takes not much longer than decaping a boxer primed case. After this you can just flush the cases in warm water. The viscosity of the antifreeze prevents it from squirting out with any velocity around the depriming shaft. You can also use just dishwashing soap but it is a bit more viscous and too much stays in the case and takes longer to drain. If you dilute it it with water it just makes a lot of foam. It all works but I find full strength antifreeze to work the best. Place the deprimed cases in another empty tuna can, neck down and 99.9% of the antifreeze can be reclaimed. I have even used motor oil but that makes a cleaning mess.
     

    Attachments

    • IMG_6082.jpg
      IMG_6082.jpg
      71 KB · Views: 150
    • IMG_6083.jpg
      IMG_6083.jpg
      50.7 KB · Views: 149
    The one thing I would like to add for reloading the 7.62x45 and Czech made 7.62x39 ammunition is that the exact powder which was used for this ammo is now sold in the US as AA2200. Originally this powder was brought into the US as a surplus powder from Czechoslovakia some decades ago as DP2200 (Data Powder) but became so popular that Accurate Arms started producing it again a few years ago as AA2200. I actually use this powder for much of my fast burn realoding. I bought 32# of it when it first got available and was extremely inexpensive, and have had to repurchase it at minimum twice more again 16# at a time. It is one of my favorite and go-to powders. It is great for anything from the 5.56 to the 308. I love it for my 307Win loads which I shoot in my Thompson Contender pistol with a 14" barrel. It is also fantastic for the smaller big boar cartridges such as the 45-7, 444marlin, 458WinMag, 375Win and so forth.
     

    Users who are viewing this thread

    Latest posts

    Forum statistics

    Threads
    275,336
    Messages
    7,277,453
    Members
    33,436
    Latest member
    DominicM

    Latest threads

    Top Bottom