If you opt for a beavertail stay away from the ‘drop in’ type. There are pinch points and your newly developed higher grip will get you pinched. So that means fitting the safety which involves altering the frame. When you do this you will need to bob or change the hammer. I personally prefer the Ed Brown. It will give you a high hold which will compliment the way your grip is evolving. The RIA pistols with the beavertails use a very similarly profiled grip safety.
Things you can do which do not require frame alteration are:
1.) Bob the hammer;
2.) Switch to a flat mainspring housing. This will move the web of your hand more under instead of over the spur of the grip safety;
3.) Slightly shorten and upsweep the bottom of the grip safety spur. Also blend the area of the grip safety from the vertical hand web contact area up through the spur. Done in conjunction with 1 and 2 will give you a high grip, never touch the frame, and give the pistol a different character with your thumb over thumb safety hold. It works.
Pics attached. This is a Tisas SDS US Army. It was configured like your RI. Even the contour of the top of the grip safety fell off fast like your Rock. I use the same grip you do. The right side of my hand covers at least half of the thumb safety pin. My hands are large palm and medium sized fingers...at least that’s what trying on gloves has determined. This hammer is minimally bobbed, I wanted to keep the wide spur as close to production as possible. When I push the hammer down manually it will touch the hairs on the web of my hand. This pistol does not even nibble the web of my hand. Also note the section under the curve of the frame has not been blended inward as I suggested. This frame is more svelte than a RI so I wanted to keep that part of the grip safety intact.
Your hammer is a straight spur type and could be bobbed another 1/16”, keep cocking leverage, look good and NOT BITE. A Springfield takeoff donor grip safety will give an ever better feel and will cost you $10.
Yours was made in Turkey? How much does it go for?This is a Tisas SDS US Army. It was configured like your RI. ... This frame is more svelte than a RI so I wanted to keep that part of the grip safety intact.
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Glad you are happy with it. I was just thinking of that pistol the other day. Did I recontour that grip safety and bob the hammer?
If I did those mods and you are getting hammer bite you are probably getting the grip high further back. When one rides the thumb safety the thumb tends to push the web up and back a little. The bottom of the contour is right because the grip safety is remaining disengaged.
Try holding the pistol in your left hand and putting the web of the hand high and forward on the pistol.Do it so you get a good point with the pistol. Then put your thumb over the thumb safety. That helps to develop some muscle memory. I believe I configured that thumb safety like the GI part which helps keep the hand high on the frame. You may need to just bob the hammer a little more.
There is more I do to the pistol to work for me. Attached are pics of a Baer framed pistol. You can see where I took the grip safety curve forward under the thumb safety. Shooting this pistol you wouldn't know it doesn’t have a beavertail. The forst pic is with the grip safety depressed. The next two are of the gs undepressed.