Loctite suggestions

John from MD · Dec 11, 2020

OnTarget said:
If you only could buy two Loctite's for your firearms, which two would they be? Blue and red? Blue and green? What numbers, if you know.

If you had to install something that you didn't want to move, like a muzzle device, then use Rockset.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...hread-locking-liquids/rocksett-prod54624.aspx

Rockset, unlike Red Locktite, can be loosened easily by putting the part in hot water for about 15 minutes. Red Locktite takes more heat, like a torch, which you don't usually don't want to use on a firearm.

Pinecone · Dec 11, 2020

You REALLY need numbers.

There a number of different green Loctite for different purposes.

But I mainly use blue thread locker and green wickable thread locker. But some red occasionally, but more for cars than guns.

Pinecone · Dec 15, 2020

EarnestT said:
low strength removable with hand tools. It has never let me down

definitely the one for small screws

I have used normal blue threadlocker (medium strength 242/243) on a LOT of small screws without issues. And only hand tools needed for disassembly.

I used to do RC helis, and lots of small screws. Only used blue.

Pinecone · Dec 15, 2020

Doco Overboard said:
For gun screws that you don't want to move, heat them up and install them while they're hot. When they shrink they'll be tight as can be and very hard to remove. ( Make sure you want them to be more or less permanent or very rarely disassembled.)
Sometimes chasing the threads and carefully cleaning the screw/threads with a solvent or even using alternate screws makes a better fit then you could just stake once they are in place.
When I use a thread compound I use black finger nail polish, just a dab on the threads and not accumulated in the bottom of a blind hole. That way the compound doesn't puddle at the base of the screw,dry harden and crack over time and just get loose again.
I have used both blue and red loc-tite in the past, sometimes I cant tell if it works any better than finger nail polish for very small screws like you find on bases. Cleanliness and fit is what keeps them tight anyway.

WTF?!

If you head the screw, it expands. When it cools, it get smaller, ie LOOSER.

If you heat the part with the HOLE, it might work, but it would require that the screw be slightly larger than the hole.

Chasing the threads does not make the fit closer.

If you can't tell the difference between red threadlocker and fingernail polish, you have been using the threadlocker wrong.

Pinecone · Dec 15, 2020

John from MD said:
If you had to install something that you didn't want to move, like a muzzle device, then use Rockset.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...hread-locking-liquids/rocksett-prod54624.aspx

Rockset, unlike Red Locktite, can be loosened easily by putting the part in hot water for about 15 minutes. Red Locktite takes more heat, like a torch, which you don't usually don't want to use on a firearm.

The other problem is, some parts of guns get hotter than the liquification temp of Loctite.

Bountied · Dec 16, 2020

Pinecone said:
The other problem is, some parts of guns get hotter than the liquification temp of Loctite.

What would you be using Loctite on that gets hot enough to melt it? Muzzle device? That's what the crush washer is for or torque. If we are only discussing rings and mounts blue is all you need. Again don't over think it.

ironpony · Dec 16, 2020

Vibra-TITE 213

rbird7282 · Dec 16, 2020

Bountied said:
What would you be using Loctite on that gets hot enough to melt it? Muzzle device? That's what the crush washer is for or torque. If we are only discussing rings and mounts blue is all you need. Again don't over think it.

You shouldn’t need blue loctite on any scope mounts or rings if properly torqued

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

EarnestT · Dec 16, 2020

ironpony said:
Vibra-TITE 213

I will give this a try

Doco Overboard · Dec 16, 2020

Pinecone said:
WTF?!

If you head the screw, it expands. When it cools, it get smaller, ie LOOSER.

If you heat the part with the HOLE, it might work, but it would require that the screw be slightly larger than the hole.

Chasing the threads does not make the fit closer.

If you can't tell the difference between red threadlocker and fingernail polish, you have been using the threadlocker wrong.

Wrong again, when the expanded screw shrinks it gets tighter.
You almost were right but obviously have limited hands on experience.

Pinecone · Dec 16, 2020

Bountied said:
What would you be using Loctite on that gets hot enough to melt it? Muzzle device? That's what the crush washer is for or torque. If we are only discussing rings and mounts blue is all you need. Again don't over think it.

Did you read the post I was replying to?

It was discussing using Rocksett. I was pointing out another reason that Rocksett is better than Loctite for some uses.

Pinecone · Dec 16, 2020

Doco Overboard said:
Wrong again, when the expanded screw shrinks it gets tighter.
You almost were right but obviously have limited hands on experience.

Are you saying it gets tighter due to length shrinkage?

But why not just torque it more? Torque, for a fastener, is just an easy way to set stretch.

I was talking about diameter. Which would make it tighter to remove.

Doco Overboard · Dec 16, 2020

When you heat the small screw it expands. Once its inserted into the threads of the larger metal surface and begins to cool, friction is increased because of the greater contact with the surrounding metal.

Also it could be that because the structure of the screw metal has changed from being somewhat hard to soft as it becomes slowly cooled, a deformation occurs between the two metals that creates an interdiction which can prohibit loosening to occur from vibration or impact/shock.

When one chooses to separate the screw from the surrounding metal, it usually requires heat to be supplied to the surrounding metal even though it has more mass and expansion occurs at a slower rate to break the friction bond allowing the two different metals to slip even though the smaller screw has once again expanded to a slightly larger size.

+Its a good way to re attach the small screws that loosen on a revolver frame, a magazine tube on a lever action rifle, or for scope base holes that have been incorrectly drilled by being off center, oversize or at an acute- obtuse angle to the seat of the base.

Ill use fingernail polish to aid in the reduction of shock/vibration to prevent loosening. I also will chase threads to clean them and prepare them for the screws after I spray clean them with a solvent from production oil-other contaminates. Just because screw are supplied with a lot of bases, doesn't mean I always use them. I select the ones that fit best from what I keep on hand and file the bottom flat when necessary to aid in making sure tension is straight down and not to the side with a loctite filled hole.

lim144 · Dec 16, 2020

Blue octite and torque it to 15 inch/lb or better.

Pinecone · Dec 18, 2020

Doco Overboard said:
When you heat the small screw it expands. Once its inserted into the threads of the larger metal surface and begins to cool, friction is increased because of the greater contact with the surrounding metal.

Also it could be that because the structure of the screw metal has changed from being somewhat hard to soft as it becomes slowly cooled, a deformation occurs between the two metals that creates an interdiction which can prohibit loosening to occur from vibration or impact/shock.

When one chooses to separate the screw from the surrounding metal, it usually requires heat to be supplied to the surrounding metal even though it has more mass and expansion occurs at a slower rate to break the friction bond allowing the two different metals to slip even though the smaller screw has once again expanded to a slightly larger size.

That explanation does not make sense. When the screw cools, it gets smaller, so less contact and friction.

I can see that when you torque it, and then it cools, the length gets shorter, so it gets stretched. But in that case, just torque to a slightly higher setting.

And BTW, the screw does not cool slowly. It cools rapidly when it comes in contact with the larger mass of cool metal.

PapiBarcelona · Dec 18, 2020

PH.D in Metallurgy, Booty Fab University is a highly accredited institution

Heating up 6-32 and 4-40 cap screws for scope rings. LOL

Doco Overboard · Dec 18, 2020

PapiBarcelona said:
PH.D in Metallurgy, Booty Fab University is a highly accredited institution

Heating up 6-32 and 4-40 cap screws for scope rings. LOL

Shrinking screws for mounting bases, tightening screws to revolver frames particularly Saa's is a known technique practiced by gunsmiths.

It is however generally outside of the scope counter advice given at a Cabela's or a you tube channel less knowledgeable people seem to use as a basis for the substitution of practical experience and problem solving.

Others may choose to use loctite because it easy and not a hard concept to grasp when a person is unfamiliar with a certain practice. It's much easier to rely on what someone else said or do a work around.

If the technique is outside of your knowledge base, I get it.
Thanks for your input.

PapiBarcelona · Dec 18, 2020

Doco Overboard said:
Shrinking screws for mounting bases, tightening screws to revolver frames particularly Saa's is a known technique practiced by gunsmiths.

It is however generally outside of the scope counter advice given at a Cabela's or a you tube channel less knowledgeable people seem to use as a basis for the substitution of practical experience and problem solving.

Others may choose to use loctite because it easy and not a hard concept to grasp when a person is unfamiliar with a certain practice. It's much easier to rely on what someone else said or do a work around.

If the technique is outside of your knowledge base, I get it.
Thanks for your input.

I'm not a blacksmith so I don't know. You're welcome

slsc98 · Dec 18, 2020

Pinecone said:
... green wickable thread locker. ...

^That’s^ some cool-a zz shizzit!

Never even knew about it til this last summer when I decided to snug every one of the HUNDREDS of 1/2” galvanized bolts holding a sizable floating dock and boat house together.

Thought, “there is NO WAY a on Earth I’m gonna undo all those nuts (many on 12” and even 16” galvanized bolts) and apply thread locker!”

Buddy that used to work high-steel told me about that green wickable Loctite and man did it make quick work of what otherwise woulda been a saga of a job.

Back on topic, OP, whoever said you only need a tiny drop of blue or purple on a tiny fastener is spot on and I’ve found it often easiest to line the alcohol-cleaned-threads fasteners up in a row, apply the blue or purple Loctite to the end of a toothpick and then use that pin tip to apply an appropriate amount, right where it’s needed.

Best o’ Success! :thumbsup:

2SAM22 · Dec 19, 2020

Surprised no one recommended this. I've had great success with it.

https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadlo...ble-threadlockers/vibra-tite-vc-3-threadmate/

Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate

Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate is one of the most versatile threadlockers available on the market. An alternative to traditional liquid lockers which cure to form a hard bond, VC-3 is a proprietary blend of thermoplastic elastomer resins designed to remain flexible and absorb vibration. The combination of inert/non-reactive amorphous resins creates a tough, semi solid layer inside the threads of a mated joint. VC-3 damps the vibrational energy transferred between the threads of a mated fastener, preventing fastener loosening and loss of clamp load. These unique differences make VC-3 coated fasteners truly adjustable, removable, and reusable.

Loctite suggestions

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