Trapping in MD

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  • joemac

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 17, 2010
    1,561
    West Point Va
    Here is a picture of Mr. Dan Tucker dispatching. Skunkie was caught in a 1.5 coil spring dirt-hole set for k9s His pole is a simple piece of metal conduit with a simple retainer that holds a syringe with a 16ga needle. I am planning on making one out of pvc that I saw on trapperman.com forum. It seems pretty easy and cheap to boot.

    9-10MarylandTrappingSchool088.jpg


    9-10MarylandTrappingSchool090.jpg
     

    joemac

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 17, 2010
    1,561
    West Point Va
    Well, opening day of trapping season is almost here. Needless to say I'm not ready. I'm having a hell of a time arranging to take my trappers ed requirement test. I'm hoping I will get it done next week sometime. I have gear on the way, it's going to be like early christmas for me. I'm going with cheap 1.5 Duke coilsprings with cable stakes. I actually think I'm going to set a line specifically for skunks. They seem to have a decent return on time/investment. Do you have any decent sets for skunks?
     

    E.Shell

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 5, 2007
    10,244
    Mid-Merlind
    Good luck joemac! Trapping is very interesting and most of it is a lot of fun too.

    Well, I've been getting my gear together and am about ready. I pulled all of my old traps out of storage and went over them, cleaning, adjusting, adding chain swivels and cable stakes to some.

    I have a few dozen 1.75 double coil Victors I plan to set around where I think I'm more likely to catch non-coyote animals like foxes & coons. I have a few #2 DLSs I'll take along but will only set those if I run out of my other coil-spring traps. I really need to add center swivels to them - I only like the chain attached at the end of the spring for water trapping to extend the reach of my drowners.

    I also prepped all of my water traps (a few bushels of #110s, #120s, #220s, #330s, #1-1/2 LSs & #4 DLSs) and just put them back into storage with fresh wax. I know waxing water traps these days is discouraged, but we've always done it and I use enough of them in odd (pest control) circumstances that I prefer to have them all fully prepped. I don't spend much time water trapping anymore, so these guys will probably just sit a few years and end up getting waxed again, LOL.

    I did buy the MB 550s recommended for coyote by FoxTrapper, and they are VERY nice traps. Very solid, well made and the pan pressure was amazingly uniform throughout the whole dozen.

    I got the "CL" (cast closed jaw) model, for the wide contact surface (as wide as most laminated jaw styles) and because I am not convinced offset jaws really do minimize injury, especially in animals smaller than optimum for the trap. From the look of non-target tracks in my areas, I'll probably end up with quite a few coons and a few reds. I'll let the coons go (just too much work to flesh the hide), but hang onto the foxes.

    I added another complete crunchproof swivel at the stake end, and went ahead and four-coiled them. The extra springs aren't really for holding the animal, but to break through the damp frozen ground I'm positive I'll encounter in western MD in November/December.

    I may also try a few of the I.S. laminated 650s if it seems like there are enough coyotes in my spots to justify more expense. The inside laminations are need to bring them within the legal jaw spread. I know the smaller traps will hold them fine, but I do like the 650's slightly larger jaw spread, which would be more forgiving of my placement errors. This is also why I didn't get traps any smaller than the 550s for coyotes and just four-coil those too.

    Got everything dyed, waxed and sitting in totes ready to go. Been leaving a little bait here and there that goes away pretty quickly, and scouting set locations and listening to the 'yotes sing at sunset - I'm getting eager to give this a try too. Just gotta finish getting my line tools together again now.

    BTW, I'm going to give up on scouting tracks for coyotes out there. I have found a few, but there is a huge amount of activity in two places where the 'yotes are seen and heard regularly and I seldom find a track. I read in one of the trapping forums that coyotes avoid muddy areas, but with the hard rocky soil, it's tough to find a track elsewhere unless it has just rained. Looks like I'm just going to have to target terrain features and areas where I've heard them howling and take my chances on reading travel routes.

    Thanks for your help FoxTrapper!
     

    foxtrapper

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 11, 2007
    4,533
    Havre de Grace
    You may want to keep the bigger coons, I had Pete Askins and Richard Adkins by here and the talk going around is coons may be worth skinning this year. Many of the big buyers have run out of or are close to it, on their coon pelts. Adkins was here to pick up his mink and marten mounts, and he and a buddy ( not Askins) are going to run a mink line in Iowa in nov. He told me about the mt lion tracks he saw in ditch mud, and an escaped ranch mink that was making it in the wild ( he stumbled upon it sleeping under brush). If you know about Iowa, it is coon heaven, so no doubt the 2 of them will be catching a bunch in mink sets.

    I haven't done a thing trapline prep wise. Just haven't had time as I have been finishing up last years mountings. 3 more deer, a pet cat, and an otter are left. There are also some new things coming in ( deer). If nothing else I will prep up the coyote traps into good working order ( they are under a porch and a bit dirty), then boil/dye them. I still have to call the one guy who shot the coyote to see if the dang things are still running around over there.
     

    E.Shell

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 5, 2007
    10,244
    Mid-Merlind
    You may want to keep the bigger coons, I had Pete Askins and Richard Adkins by here and the talk going around is coons may be worth skinning this year. Many of the big buyers have run out of or are close to it, on their coon pelts. Adkins was here to pick up his mink and marten mounts, and he and a buddy ( not Askins) are going to run a mink line in Iowa in nov. He told me about the mt lion tracks he saw in ditch mud, and an escaped ranch mink that was making it in the wild ( he stumbled upon it sleeping under brush). If you know about Iowa, it is coon heaven, so no doubt the 2 of them will be catching a bunch in mink sets...
    LOL at the mink, must have dreamed it was feeding time.

    I have access to a half mile of creek (average 6'w x 6"-12" deep), wonder what the chances are of tagging a mink? I don't see any fish in the creek anymore, not even the smallest of fry, but I do see crayfish mounds, and some have a had a coons hand down in them. I used to see small fish, but they had some very dry weather and I doubt the flow would sustain fish anymore. The areas where tracks would stick are completely devoid of any kind of tracks beyond raccoon, but there is so much rock, you could walk the creekbed for miles without leaving a track if so inclined.

    It's probably OK to come down the ditch *after* the lion made the tracks. Seems like mt. lion would be tough to hold, probably need a 75# drag or something. I was looking at lion/wolf traps once as a novelty and it seems that one would be crazy to fool with them without having a good set of bolt cutters already out... Those #4 DLSs I have for nuisance beaver are already getting a little bit much to play with alone anymore.

    Thanks for that coon tip, I'll keep it in mind. The area I'm in is mostly upland and the coon tracks I see where I'll actually be trapping tend to be large, so I may find a few big ones. They're probably less numerous than sign would indicate, since they fool around every puddle they encounter and so there are a lot of tracks in the few places that will take a track.
    I haven't done a thing trapline prep wise. Just haven't had time as I have been finishing up last years mountings. 3 more deer, a pet cat, and an otter are left. There are also some new things coming in ( deer). If nothing else I will prep up the coyote traps into good working order ( they are under a porch and a bit dirty), then boil/dye them.
    My old traps just looked "a little dusty" from being in my open garage attic in bushel baskets for years. Amazing just how much dirt trap wax will grab. I really should have boiled them once and tossed the whole deal, but I did get back several pounds of wax and all I had to do was skim the lightest stuff off the top and try not to agitate the heavy stuff.
    I still have to call the one guy who shot the coyote to see if the dang things are still running around over there.
    Out in Garrett Co, the several farmers I know all say they have a lot of coyotes, and everyone sees/hears them "all the time", but they seem to range pretty far and could be any number of places at the exact moment I am trying to find them. The other funny thing is that every farmer who tells me about seeing one out there says how huge it is. I wonder if they're not just puffed up in the cold. Just over the line in Preston Co, WV, they tell me they have a strain of "supercoyote" that is bigger yet and a little less afraid.
     

    foxtrapper

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 11, 2007
    4,533
    Havre de Grace
    There are some really big eastern coyotes in some areas, the thought is interbreeding with large breed dogs and wolves. Something about the Quebec wolves being smaller than other wolves and more amenable to mating with a coyote bitch in heat, rather than killing her. Coydogs are suspected, in fact some coyotes in certain areas have white toes and other doglike markings. I also have a big NY red/blond mounted in here that has rear dew claws, suggesting it has a bit of dog mixed in. Southeastern coyotes, esp TN and KY, do interbreed with the rare red wolf found mostly in TN. This can give bigger size and show white paw traits.

    What is happening is going to end up as an ultimate new subspecies, or group of subspecies. I think there is already a latin designation for "eastern coyote", canis latrans something or another ( whatever the latin word for "east" is I guess). Easy to just use the term " brush wolf", which has already been used for years to describe a very large type of coyote with some wolfish features. These have been around the Great Lakes region for some time, and the term is now used for eastern coyotes.

    How big is a "brush wolf"? Mature weight can be up to 75 pounds for a Quebec coyote/wolf cross type, but the typical eastern coyote is 40-50 pounds mature.
     

    E.Shell

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 5, 2007
    10,244
    Mid-Merlind
    One guy we spoke with at a central MD range last spring was killing coyotes and selling the dry (not even tanned) hides on E-Bay for (relatively) big bucks. He went to his truck and got a fresh hide that was almost 6 feet from nose to tail, said the critter came from MoCo. I was surprised how big it was and what great shape the animal seemed to have been in...like he had been used to eating regularly and sleeping on someone's porch, LOL. Dunno how far it was stretched, but it didn't look abused.

    I dunno, in general, without some sort of evidence (carcass, etc.), it's hard for me to believe that they are much larger than the standard 50# version, though everyone likes to believe in exciting stuff, and like to believe what they personally saw is somehow special. I also know that most people tend to greatly overestimate animal size "on the hoof", and this is where most of these stories come from - observation, often rather distant observation.

    I'll have to find the reference, but I saw someplace that there was some sort of genetic issue with crossbreeding into domestic dogs.
     

    foxtrapper

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 11, 2007
    4,533
    Havre de Grace
    I wish I could get a data log going of all larger coyotes taken, region by region. I am talking starting with Quebec and working the way down the entire eastern coastline states. Something of this magnitude would be better done by a professional wildlife biologist though, however what I am looking for is weight plus taxidermy measurements plus stretched dried hide measurements for the ones not mounted- but to have the carcass measured for such anyway. In other words, lets say a trapper in upstate NY gets a coyote that weighs 49 pounds, the trapper takes the taxidermy measurements, then takes the pelt and stretches and dries it as per norms, and then takes a tip to tip and width measurement. The taxidermy measurement is nose to eye 4.5", belly girth 24", nose to base of tail 40". Then the stretched/ dried measurement is tip to tip 67" by 14" wide at the hips.

    I have recorded some coyotes I have gotten in, however most times I get them skinned and are ones I am buying from a dealer in NY. I don't have a stretched/dried pelt measurement log, but the coyotes I have skinned that are in the 38-42 pound range tend to be taxidermy measurement 4 1/4 x 23 x 38. I have a black coyote I mounted, but only had the skin to start with. I had to alter the form to 24" girth and about 41" nose to base of tail, so the skin would fit properly. I wish I had data that would match this size with a basic weight range, so best I can do is guess 50-55 pounds. Oddly, the nose to eye is only 4". I once did a NB, Canada "wolf coyote" that I only had the skin and head for and got 4 1/2 x 26 x 42. I have seen small timberwolf forms that measure 4 3/4 x 26 x 45. Those wolves typically weigh about 80-90 pounds alive.
     

    E.Shell

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 5, 2007
    10,244
    Mid-Merlind
    Foxtrapper, I'll take some coyote measurements for you if I can grab one or more of those 'yotes out in Garrett Co. this year.

    "Nose to eye"; is that to the bottom eyelid, or the center of the eye, or?
    "Girth" at the widest part of the rib cage?

    I'll try to get some tooth pics too, so we can guess at their age(s).

    I have been researching coyote trapping methods pretty actively and I'm really finding out they are not that much like big foxes at all, even though most of the set techniques are roughly common to both.

    I've got to modify a few of my ways of thinking, such as how I normally check my traps. I like to get close enough to see if anything has worked the set, but most recommend looking at it from as far back as you can still see there's nothing in it.

    Foxes seem to hit the set the minute they see it, and I usually have the highest percentages on the first night or two after placing the sets. "They" almost lead one to believe that one shouldn't even expect to get a visit by a coyote until the set has aged a few days, let alone nail one.

    Some say this is because they have a big travel circuit and it takes awhile to get back around once you've purged the area with your presence.

    Others say they can't stand anything "new" and have to see it once or twice to trust it enough to be able to approach the set. I can't put a lot of stock in this and wonder if those guys saying that have a too flashy set or aren't cautious enough about scent. I just can't believe a creature of opportunity like a coyote can just pass up every "new" food item that appears with the idea of waiting and eating it tomorrow if it's still there. A full deer carcass...maybe. Not a groundhog tidbit in a dirt hole, especially in the presence of fox aroma.

    Another difference is that I have always treated fox as being right footed (and offset right), but it would appear from every missed set pic I saw that the coyote steps in with the left foot last, and this puts the trap offset to the other side. Not much text suggests this, and most just tell you to increase the set back to 8-10" to make up for the 'yote's longer reach. I'm going to try a little variation and see it it matters.

    I've also seen suggestions to place the trap back as far as 18", but that sounds like the hole is not at enough of an angle and he can see down into it too soon. Might play with that too, and use a hump of dirt or small stick across the bottom of the hole entrance to bring him closer.

    The 'yotes are also said to circle the sets without working them much more often than a fox would, so a blind set or two out at 25 to 75 feet will often produce when the baited/scented set wasn't hit. I've always done this for late season fox, just before they start rubbing/singing and have taken doubles several times, but I always thought I had caught the dirt hole or scent post fox first, and attracted another one (potential mate?) that circled the catch and ended up caught too.

    I think I'm going to make a few fisher sets (baited cubbies) while I'm out there. I've got a bunch of 1.75 Victors that look bored, and I'll be passing though a lot of area on my way to the coyote sets. Saw one over in Savage off Fairview Road, but never saw a fisher out there where I hunt or even sign of one, but figure they almost have to be around because the varied habitat supports almost everything else. LOL, probably end up being my best chance of finding that big coon, or of getting the grinners and skunks out of the way....

    Hoping not to catch a damn bobcat or small bear, since I'll probably have to go get some help to turn it loose unless it's a very small cat. I can see my farmer friend now: "You want help letting WHAT out of a trap?!"
     

    Todd v.

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 30, 2008
    7,921
    South Carolina
    A bunch of us were out ar Green Ridge last weekend (site 84) and there were a LOT of yotes talking all night and not real far from the campsite at times, I'd guess within half a mile. The one pack sounded to have 6 or better in it but we heard a few different packs in different areas. They have really been multiplying in the last couple years it seems.
     

    joemac

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 17, 2010
    1,561
    West Point Va
    Question for you foxtrapper or e.shell since you guys seem to be pretty knowledgeable

    Is the sale of furbearer meat legal in MD. Mainly interested in raccoons, opossums, muskrats and beavers. What about squirrel meat. I seem to recall reading the sale of venison was not permitted.
     

    E.Shell

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 5, 2007
    10,244
    Mid-Merlind
    A bunch of us were out ar Green Ridge last weekend (site 84) and there were a LOT of yotes talking all night and not real far from the campsite at times, I'd guess within half a mile. The one pack sounded to have 6 or better in it but we heard a few different packs in different areas. They have really been multiplying in the last couple years it seems.
    Yes, they are becoming more prevalent, and quickly too. I had only heard them down near the river (Bonn's Landing area) occasionally 12-15 years ago. Upriver a few miles at Oldtown I used to hear them very briefly almost every night, but I think they were over on the WV side.
    Question for you foxtrapper or e.shell since you guys seem to be pretty knowledgeable

    Is the sale of furbearer meat legal in MD. Mainly interested in raccoons, opossums, muskrats and beavers. What about squirrel meat. I seem to recall reading the sale of venison was not permitted.
    I don't know where to find it in the law, but selling parts of *game animals* in MD has always been against the law. In theory, this discourages poaching for market.

    As far as *furbearers*, I have had the impression that selling the meats, urine, glandular extracts, etc., has always been legal to do, just like selling the hides. I really don't know exactly what can be sold.

    One used to go into the general stores down on the shore and buy "marsh hare" (muskrat) in season and even old Ms. Mamie at Mickolas' (sp?) Store in Severn sold muskrat carcasses. Very red meat, did not look especially appetizing laying on the ice, but she sold quite a bit of it. IIRC, they were selling for about $1.00 each when I was getting $4.00 for a 2# fryer rabbit.

    Raccoon and Opossum are both "edible", but meat is of rather low quality (greasy & strong) and were typically only utilized by extremely low income families. My grandfather ran 'coons with dogs back in the day and took both 'coons & 'possums, but we never ate them. He mainly ran to hear the dogs, and sold the hides and gave carcasses to some of the locals who were damn glad to get them. He got me started live trapping 'coons in the '60s to sell to a local dog club for bullet money (.22 shorts & .410s) - guess I had an expensive habit even then, LOL.

    Beaver is said to be edible, and I understand the tail meat is pretty good, but until relatively recently, beaver were VERY hard to come by and quite rare. Now, with depressed fur prices and reduced access, almost no one fools with them and they're becoming very plentiful and terrible pests in most places. One potential problem with beaver is the likelihood of picking up the Giardia parasite, so extra care must be taken to isolate raw food and utensils used to handle it raw from cooked food, and to cook thoroughly.

    There's something about the big rodents' carcasses (beaver, nutria, muskrat), with their rat-like appearance and very red meat, that just puts me off. I can eat frog legs, snails & soft crabs, but am just not ready for a big rat.
     

    Diesel Kinevel

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 22, 2008
    2,774
    Frederick, MD
    So I have been contemplating buying a few traps to use at the farm I hunt. I have trail camera pics of one that is about 50-60 lbs and I am not dumb enough to believe that he or she is the only one around. My questions are: what type/size of trap should I get and what should I use as bait?

    Thanks,

    Z
     

    joemac

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 17, 2010
    1,561
    West Point Va
    Your going to want at least a 1.75 coilspring, going after coyotes specifically you will probably be better off with a number 2. Just starting out Duke is a very good value. There are coyote specific baits/lures on the market but if it's just something you want to dabble in any old meat or fat scraps stuffed in a 4" hole would probably do the trick.
     

    foxtrapper

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 11, 2007
    4,533
    Havre de Grace
    Nose to eye is measuring to the inside corner of the eye at the front of the eye. Start at the side of the nose lining up with the outermost tip. Belly girth is right in the very middle, or the widest part. Nose to base of tail is outermost tip of nose, going cross the middle of the head and across the animals' back till you get to where the top of the tail starts coming out. I measure nose to eye before skinning, the other 2 after and extending to where the nose was for the nose to base of tail. Wish I had pics to show. Oh yeah, weigh the coyote before skinning.

    My plan for coyote trapping is probably going to be my hay sets. I need to order those cable stakes still yet. Hopefully we won't keep having high winds in nov. I check many of my traps from afar as it is, so no problem there. I haven't done a thing with my coyote traps though. They need to have the extra rust scaled off and have a check to be sure the pan tension is right and they fire ok, then I will simmer them in the dye. I also need to talk to the guy that lives over there to see if the yotes are still around, and get that permission slip signed. One other thing is to see if this other guy still has some of my coyote traps, I've located only 12 and I had at least 2 1/2 dozen of them. Some got run over by tractors, but cmon, where's the others? And 1 of the 12 needs new pads ( #3 softcatch), and another got a truck over it and is partly bent but my coyote guy offered to see if he could bend and pound it back to shape. So I have 10 coyote traps basically.

    Furbearer meats: I've heard of muskrats and raccoons, dressed out and skinned, being sold. If you have people who want to buy a bunch, I'd say call the DNR permits coordinator Mary Goldie to see if there is anything special you have to do.

    Beaver meat is very good. Slow cooker with BBQ sauce, pull the meat from bones, make BBQ sandwich. Fat should be removed first before cooking. The fat is on the surface, they are not marbled. You can also take meat, fat removed, deboned, tendons removed, and grind the meat and use for chili or whatnot. Does NOT need aged, marinated, or any salt water or milk soak. I usually get beavers in 330's and they mostly float just under the water dead. Water temp is always pretty chilly which cools them pretty fast guts and all. Best to gut them in the field after pulling them out. I've hauled them to the truck and gutted them on the tailgate, tossing the innards for the vultures and foxes to eat. Just make a cut from above the vent to the ribs and pull it all out. Do not cut into the glands! You can carefully remove the castors and oil glands first, then gut them. The gutting cut is part of the cut you make to skin them anyway. When you do skin them, just keep things clean. I'll skin the belly and legs out, then hang them with a rope around the tail base and finish skinning this way. I lay the hide out open with the flesh side up and as I cut the meat out I lay it on the hide. First get off as much fat as you can. Remove the backstraps and debone the hind legs and remove all the larger tendons. If planning the slow cooker, you can opt to not debone and can toss the front legs in too. As far as the front legs go though, they are full of tendons.

    LOL- how do you tell the gender of a beaver? When removing the 4 glands, check in the middle of them for the urethra. If you find a fleshy boney thing about an inch long, it's male. The male beaver has a penis bone. A female taken near the end of the season may have small fetuses in her, so watch for this when gutting. I had one like this once, there were 4 in there. Felt kinda bad, but these beavers were being PIA's.

    Note- always wear latex or nitrile gloves when handling beaver and removing the meat. Basically treat the meat same way you would with a raw beef steak. Wash hands, wash surfaces with lysol, etc. I always wear gloves with EVERY furbearer when skinning, etc. Deer too. Never know what might be in the blood. Deer and muskrats can have tuleremia, can make you VERY sick. Foxes, coons, coyotes can have rabies, plus tuleremia and a bunch of other stuff. Urine can have leptospirosis in it.
     

    joemac

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 17, 2010
    1,561
    West Point Va
    Well, I got my trappers cert done and have almost everything ready as well. Ahead of time to boot, very much not like me. Only things I need are to make my catch pole in case I have to let something go and finish my custom pack basket. Pics to follow.

    Question for you experienced trappers. Does MD allow you to dig your dirtholes and set your stakes before the season start? I know some states do and it allows you to get a major jump start on your season.
     

    E.Shell

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 5, 2007
    10,244
    Mid-Merlind
    Well, I got my trappers cert done and have almost everything ready as well. Ahead of time to boot, very much not like me. Only things I need are to make my catch pole in case I have to let something go and finish my custom pack basket. Pics to follow.
    I'm doing the same thing. WalMart had a 30' spool of clear vinyl coated 3/16" cable with six cable clamps and two thimbles in a package for $9.
    Question for you experienced trappers. Does MD allow you to dig your dirtholes and set your stakes before the season start? I know some states do and it allows you to get a major jump start on your season.
    I don't know the official answer to that, except that if there are no traps, you're probably not trapping. I'm unaware of any legal restrictions to prep work. While I might appreciate the chance to set some earth anchors ahead of time, I'm not sure I want a "blank" set out there where it might get worked before I can put traps in. If I put it out now, a good portion of it's final drawing power (visual attraction) might be worn off if they can investigate it before I have a trap in.

    The other side of that is the activity in an area normally devoid of humans will be risking spooking them. If I set the trap at the same time that I make the set, I don't have to have construction twice.

    I was just sitting here mulling over when the season actually opens (12:01 AM) vs when I'll get traps out. Probably just get out at daybreak 11/01 and start making sets.
     

    Minuteman

    Member
    BANNED!!!
    Very interesting topic.

    An associate who lives in Columbia, MD , mentioned yesterday, there is a family of skunks living under their deck. They are concerned the skunks will spray them and fear for their childrens safety. They called and were told it would cost hundreds of $ to have the county remove them by trap. Since they live in a suburb, shooting, even if legal isn't an option.

    They need advice/help quickly, anyone have recommendations?
     

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