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Old October 16th, 2010, 10:43 PM #31
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Question for you foxtrapper or e.shell since you guys seem to be pretty knowledgeable

Is the sale of furbearer meat legal in MD. Mainly interested in raccoons, opossums, muskrats and beavers. What about squirrel meat. I seem to recall reading the sale of venison was not permitted.
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Old October 17th, 2010, 10:54 AM #32
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I think it applies to any wild game.b Maybe it could be donated the way Venison is though?
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Old October 17th, 2010, 11:07 AM #33
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A bunch of us were out ar Green Ridge last weekend (site 84) and there were a LOT of yotes talking all night and not real far from the campsite at times, I'd guess within half a mile. The one pack sounded to have 6 or better in it but we heard a few different packs in different areas. They have really been multiplying in the last couple years it seems.
Yes, they are becoming more prevalent, and quickly too. I had only heard them down near the river (Bonn's Landing area) occasionally 12-15 years ago. Upriver a few miles at Oldtown I used to hear them very briefly almost every night, but I think they were over on the WV side.
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Question for you foxtrapper or e.shell since you guys seem to be pretty knowledgeable

Is the sale of furbearer meat legal in MD. Mainly interested in raccoons, opossums, muskrats and beavers. What about squirrel meat. I seem to recall reading the sale of venison was not permitted.
I don't know where to find it in the law, but selling parts of *game animals* in MD has always been against the law. In theory, this discourages poaching for market.

As far as *furbearers*, I have had the impression that selling the meats, urine, glandular extracts, etc., has always been legal to do, just like selling the hides. I really don't know exactly what can be sold.

One used to go into the general stores down on the shore and buy "marsh hare" (muskrat) in season and even old Ms. Mamie at Mickolas' (sp?) Store in Severn sold muskrat carcasses. Very red meat, did not look especially appetizing laying on the ice, but she sold quite a bit of it. IIRC, they were selling for about $1.00 each when I was getting $4.00 for a 2# fryer rabbit.

Raccoon and Opossum are both "edible", but meat is of rather low quality (greasy & strong) and were typically only utilized by extremely low income families. My grandfather ran 'coons with dogs back in the day and took both 'coons & 'possums, but we never ate them. He mainly ran to hear the dogs, and sold the hides and gave carcasses to some of the locals who were damn glad to get them. He got me started live trapping 'coons in the '60s to sell to a local dog club for bullet money (.22 shorts & .410s) - guess I had an expensive habit even then, LOL.

Beaver is said to be edible, and I understand the tail meat is pretty good, but until relatively recently, beaver were VERY hard to come by and quite rare. Now, with depressed fur prices and reduced access, almost no one fools with them and they're becoming very plentiful and terrible pests in most places. One potential problem with beaver is the likelihood of picking up the Giardia parasite, so extra care must be taken to isolate raw food and utensils used to handle it raw from cooked food, and to cook thoroughly.

There's something about the big rodents' carcasses (beaver, nutria, muskrat), with their rat-like appearance and very red meat, that just puts me off. I can eat frog legs, snails & soft crabs, but am just not ready for a big rat.
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Old October 17th, 2010, 02:27 PM #34
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So I have been contemplating buying a few traps to use at the farm I hunt. I have trail camera pics of one that is about 50-60 lbs and I am not dumb enough to believe that he or she is the only one around. My questions are: what type/size of trap should I get and what should I use as bait?

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Old October 17th, 2010, 03:51 PM #35
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Your going to want at least a 1.75 coilspring, going after coyotes specifically you will probably be better off with a number 2. Just starting out Duke is a very good value. There are coyote specific baits/lures on the market but if it's just something you want to dabble in any old meat or fat scraps stuffed in a 4" hole would probably do the trick.
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Old October 17th, 2010, 10:03 PM #36
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Nose to eye is measuring to the inside corner of the eye at the front of the eye. Start at the side of the nose lining up with the outermost tip. Belly girth is right in the very middle, or the widest part. Nose to base of tail is outermost tip of nose, going cross the middle of the head and across the animals' back till you get to where the top of the tail starts coming out. I measure nose to eye before skinning, the other 2 after and extending to where the nose was for the nose to base of tail. Wish I had pics to show. Oh yeah, weigh the coyote before skinning.

My plan for coyote trapping is probably going to be my hay sets. I need to order those cable stakes still yet. Hopefully we won't keep having high winds in nov. I check many of my traps from afar as it is, so no problem there. I haven't done a thing with my coyote traps though. They need to have the extra rust scaled off and have a check to be sure the pan tension is right and they fire ok, then I will simmer them in the dye. I also need to talk to the guy that lives over there to see if the yotes are still around, and get that permission slip signed. One other thing is to see if this other guy still has some of my coyote traps, I've located only 12 and I had at least 2 1/2 dozen of them. Some got run over by tractors, but cmon, where's the others? And 1 of the 12 needs new pads ( #3 softcatch), and another got a truck over it and is partly bent but my coyote guy offered to see if he could bend and pound it back to shape. So I have 10 coyote traps basically.

Furbearer meats: I've heard of muskrats and raccoons, dressed out and skinned, being sold. If you have people who want to buy a bunch, I'd say call the DNR permits coordinator Mary Goldie to see if there is anything special you have to do.

Beaver meat is very good. Slow cooker with BBQ sauce, pull the meat from bones, make BBQ sandwich. Fat should be removed first before cooking. The fat is on the surface, they are not marbled. You can also take meat, fat removed, deboned, tendons removed, and grind the meat and use for chili or whatnot. Does NOT need aged, marinated, or any salt water or milk soak. I usually get beavers in 330's and they mostly float just under the water dead. Water temp is always pretty chilly which cools them pretty fast guts and all. Best to gut them in the field after pulling them out. I've hauled them to the truck and gutted them on the tailgate, tossing the innards for the vultures and foxes to eat. Just make a cut from above the vent to the ribs and pull it all out. Do not cut into the glands! You can carefully remove the castors and oil glands first, then gut them. The gutting cut is part of the cut you make to skin them anyway. When you do skin them, just keep things clean. I'll skin the belly and legs out, then hang them with a rope around the tail base and finish skinning this way. I lay the hide out open with the flesh side up and as I cut the meat out I lay it on the hide. First get off as much fat as you can. Remove the backstraps and debone the hind legs and remove all the larger tendons. If planning the slow cooker, you can opt to not debone and can toss the front legs in too. As far as the front legs go though, they are full of tendons.

LOL- how do you tell the gender of a beaver? When removing the 4 glands, check in the middle of them for the urethra. If you find a fleshy boney thing about an inch long, it's male. The male beaver has a penis bone. A female taken near the end of the season may have small fetuses in her, so watch for this when gutting. I had one like this once, there were 4 in there. Felt kinda bad, but these beavers were being PIA's.

Note- always wear latex or nitrile gloves when handling beaver and removing the meat. Basically treat the meat same way you would with a raw beef steak. Wash hands, wash surfaces with lysol, etc. I always wear gloves with EVERY furbearer when skinning, etc. Deer too. Never know what might be in the blood. Deer and muskrats can have tuleremia, can make you VERY sick. Foxes, coons, coyotes can have rabies, plus tuleremia and a bunch of other stuff. Urine can have leptospirosis in it.
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Old October 18th, 2010, 04:16 PM #37
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Well, I got my trappers cert done and have almost everything ready as well. Ahead of time to boot, very much not like me. Only things I need are to make my catch pole in case I have to let something go and finish my custom pack basket. Pics to follow.

Question for you experienced trappers. Does MD allow you to dig your dirtholes and set your stakes before the season start? I know some states do and it allows you to get a major jump start on your season.
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Old October 18th, 2010, 08:37 PM #38
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Well, I got my trappers cert done and have almost everything ready as well. Ahead of time to boot, very much not like me. Only things I need are to make my catch pole in case I have to let something go and finish my custom pack basket. Pics to follow.
I'm doing the same thing. WalMart had a 30' spool of clear vinyl coated 3/16" cable with six cable clamps and two thimbles in a package for $9.
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Question for you experienced trappers. Does MD allow you to dig your dirtholes and set your stakes before the season start? I know some states do and it allows you to get a major jump start on your season.
I don't know the official answer to that, except that if there are no traps, you're probably not trapping. I'm unaware of any legal restrictions to prep work. While I might appreciate the chance to set some earth anchors ahead of time, I'm not sure I want a "blank" set out there where it might get worked before I can put traps in. If I put it out now, a good portion of it's final drawing power (visual attraction) might be worn off if they can investigate it before I have a trap in.

The other side of that is the activity in an area normally devoid of humans will be risking spooking them. If I set the trap at the same time that I make the set, I don't have to have construction twice.

I was just sitting here mulling over when the season actually opens (12:01 AM) vs when I'll get traps out. Probably just get out at daybreak 11/01 and start making sets.
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Old October 19th, 2010, 10:16 PM #39
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thanks for the info guys!

-Z
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Old March 5th, 2011, 06:04 AM #40
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Very interesting topic.

An associate who lives in Columbia, MD , mentioned yesterday, there is a family of skunks living under their deck. They are concerned the skunks will spray them and fear for their childrens safety. They called and were told it would cost hundreds of $ to have the county remove them by trap. Since they live in a suburb, shooting, even if legal isn't an option.

They need advice/help quickly, anyone have recommendations?
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