Crossbow guidance...total noob

Before the crossbow get a freezer for all that venison your going to harvest.!!!!! While your at it line up a good deer processor if your not going to process the meat yourself. Planning out out the meat harvest before you wack all those Bambi's is what I forgot my first year.

Inigoes said:

Yep,

Once your status is verified, 30 to 40% discounts can be had.

The catch, you can only buy 1 trijicon scope and 1 trijicon mount per year at reduced costs.

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I have a feeling that's going to be sufficient, LOL.

Inigoes said:

Edit: I would suggest a case for the crossbow too.

Wicked Soft Crossbow Case

The lightweight and rugged Wicked Ridge soft crossbow case is built with everything you need to protect and transport your crossbow.

www.tenpointcrossbows.com

Allen makes a decent reverse draw croosbow case also, when you can find them.

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Thanks, I have that on my list above, same one you linked. I'll look at the Allen.

Afrikeber said:

Before the crossbow get a freezer for all that venison your going to harvest.!!!!! While your at it line up a good deer processor if your not going to process the meat yourself. Planning out out the meat harvest before you wack all those Bambi's is what I forgot my first year.

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Haha, thanks. I think I'm ready and have ample freezer space for the one or two I might get.

I butcher all of my deer myself. Grew up on a farm and got my start helping butcher steers. I have had exactly two deer professionally butchered and was not happy either time.

All the prep I need is to touch up my "good knives" with a steel, dig out the grinder and clear the kitchen counters, then find my pain meds for my lower back. I used to do a whole deer all at once, but can only tolerate about third or half at a time anymore before my hands (cold meat + arthritis) and back (too much standing/bending) start up.

Another user of RDX400 here. It is my 3rd season hunting with it. So far I'm pretty happy with it.

I changed the scope to "Hawke Sport Optics 1.5-5x32 XB1 Crossbow Scope". It allows you to sight the 1st line of the reticle for 20yds and adjust the zoom to fit the arrow speed such a way that next lines will be 30, 40, 50 yds respectively.

Here is my list of its drawbacks.

I've lost one hand crank, it was too easy to loose, just fell out. Better keep it in your bag.

When you have a quiver with 3 arrows and crank ACUdraw the closest arrow is on your wrist way when you crank, it is inconvenient.

The aluminum arrows have different POI than fiberglass ones at >30yds. Be careful and use the same arrows for hunting and training.

The stirrup is not wide to fit your foot, it is a crossbow hanger. If you have a manual rope it is close to impossible to draw the bow withpout ACUdraw, not enough distance for my hands.

If you want to make a discharge arrow, go down to your hardware store and buy a wide fender washer or 2 and put them on one of your target arrows to be shot into the dirt.

Ed,

Now that you are dialed in, lets look at your boradheads.

Did you by chance buy Rage orange crossbow broadheads?

Rage manufactures various shock collars from the standard black plastic to the high energy crossbow red.

People have had mixed results with the red, because they weren't matched to the crossbow. For some reason the blades were not deploying with the red shock collar.

Amazon product ASIN B0197DB1HG
The standard black will always deploy the blades. The downside, they deploy to easily when brushed by a tree branch.

Amazon product ASIN B0084UXRTY
I use the standard black shock collars, as I only hunt small plots of land and don't walk long distances.

PSA: Investing in a broadhead wrench will save your fingers too. Do not buy the expensive ones, the cheap ones work really well and most likely made in the same factory in China.

Amazon product ASIN B07S929QG4

akalma said:

Another user of RDX400 here. It is my 3rd season hunting with it. So far I'm pretty happy with it.

I changed the scope to "Hawke Sport Optics 1.5-5x32 XB1 Crossbow Scope". It allows you to sight the 1st line of the reticle for 20yds and adjust the zoom to fit the arrow speed such a way that next lines will be 30, 40, 50 yds respectively.

Here is my list of its drawbacks.

I've lost one hand crank, it was too easy to loose, just fell out. Better keep it in your bag.

When you have a quiver with 3 arrows and crank ACUdraw the closest arrow is on your wrist way when you crank, it is inconvenient.

The aluminum arrows have different POI than fiberglass ones at >30yds. Be careful and use the same arrows for hunting and training.

The stirrup is not wide to fit your foot, it is a crossbow hanger. If you have a manual rope it is close to impossible to draw the bow withpout ACUdraw, not enough distance for my hands.

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Thank you akalma!

I'll check out that Hawke scope, although I think I'll probably try to be happy with the one it came with, at least this season.

Many RDX400 reviews mention losing the hand crank and I do intend to buy an extra/spare. They're out of stock at Ten Point's site right now, but maybe I can find one elsewhere. I have a piece of "mini-550" cord looped through the bow and around the handle for now. Once I get the backpack/case for the bow, I'll be using that back and forth to the stand.

At 175# draw weight, there is no chance of me drawing that manually, stirrup or not. When I first unpacked the bow, I though they had omitted the stirrup, but then realized that, as you say, cranking is really the only option. If I can't find a spare crank handle soon, I'll probably toss a 1/4" drive T-handle and appropriate socket in my pack for emergencies.

ETA: I see what you mean about the bow quiver and arrows interfering with cranking. The new bracket design is a quick release and I probably won't use the bow with the quiver on it. The pack/case has a separate compartment for the quiver and I'll likely hang it in the stand once I get there.

For arrows, mine came with the 400 grain carbon fiber arrows. The arrows I bought are also carbon fiber and somewhat heavier (465gr). Out to 30 yards, they shoot into the same group, but I didn't test them any further out yet. I put the 3 lightweight arrows back into the box and plan to use only the heavier 'Evo Center-Punch'. I plan to grab another half-dozen next time I get near Macrotech.

Inigoes said:

If you want to make a discharge arrow, go down to your hardware store and buy a wide fender washer or 2 and put them on one of your target arrows to be shot into the dirt.

View attachment 435870

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Inigoes said:

Ed,

Now that you are dialed in, lets look at your boradheads.

Did you by chance buy Rage orange crossbow broadheads?

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Thanks once again Inigoes!!

I looked at that Trijicon and MSRP is $1,431. I couldn't see pricing without signing up at that 'experts' site, but even at 40% off ($858), it's going to be more than I want to spend right now. FWIW, Europtics has it for $915 & free shipping. AS I said above, I'm probably going to stick with what I have for this year.

The fender washer suggestion sounds like a great idea and I'll give it a try. I have few of those old "Bludgeon Points" I used to use for squirrels and could put a washer behind that.

I bought the Ten Point "Evo Center Punch" 100 grain mechanical broadheads. They have a couple bad reviews saying they didn't open, but the great majority of reviews were favorable. I did make sure the blades moved freely and hope that they work as designed. Not sure I made a good decision...

I've always been suspicious of mechanical broadheads, but my experience was based on early technology and I really don't know much about them. I guess they're almost mandatory for high-speed X-bows. I looked at several types and most seem similar to the Ten Point or Rage design. I was trying to stay away from anything that had extra parts (sleeves/actuators). Suggestions?

$25 for string wax??? Chapstick is about a buck at the dollar store. And has a nice minty flavor

possumman said:

$25 for string wax??? Chapstick is about a buck at the dollar store. And has a nice minty flavor

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LOL, I like mint...

No, I didn't pay all that for wax, the 25 bucks was the combined purchased of the flight deck lube and the string wax. One of the complaints about the bow was the string serving longevity and I want to use the recommended lubeS in case it becomes a warranty issue.

E.Shell said:

LOL, I like mint...

No, I didn't pay all that for wax, the 25 bucks was the combined purchased of the flight deck lube and the string wax. One of the complaints about the bow was the string serving longevity and I want to use the recommended lubeS in case it becomes a warranty issue.

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I think I still have my first tube of string wax. Over 40 years old.

E.Shell said:

For arrows, mine came with the 400 grain carbon fiber arrows. The arrows I bought are also carbon fiber and somewhat heavier (465gr). Out to 30 yards, they shoot into the same group, but I didn't test them any further out yet. I put the 3 lightweight arrows back into the box and plan to use only the heavier 'Evo Center-Punch'. I plan to grab another half-dozen next time I get near Macrotech.

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I weighted the arrows I have. Originally crossbow came with aluminum shaft Easton XX75 with small vanes. In the store I bought additional arrows, also Easton XX75, they had larger vanes. And in some time bought EVO-X CenterPunch. All are 20" long.
Their weights with 100gn field point were 445gn, 460gn and 450gn respectively.
For me they biggest difference in POI was between Easton and EVO-X.

E.Shell said:

I butcher all of my deer myself. Grew up on a farm and got my start helping butcher steers. I have had exactly two deer professionally butchered and was not happy either time.

All the prep I need is to touch up my "good knives" with a steel, dig out the grinder and clear the kitchen counters, then find my pain meds for my lower back. I used to do a whole deer all at once, but can only tolerate about third or half at a time anymore before my hands (cold meat + arthritis) and back (too much standing/bending) start up.

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I started years back after going to the butcher and hanging around to talk with them. Guy was butchering one and they brought it in from the eastern shore on a warm day. He was stating guy can shoot a deer, but can't invest in two bags of ice to keep it from going bad. Then stated how they grind it all together. You only get some of your deer ground back as it is all dome together.

Many processors are expensive or do a really cheap job. My daughter used a cheap guy and be butterflied the loins and left the silver skin on it. Froze the rumps and band sawed them whole into steaks with the bone and connected tissues. Too thin and just terrible.

I bought the bite bite 12 4 years for about $360 and they are $530 now. I also use meat tubs and process over a couple of days. My back hurts and doo roasts and back strap one night and trim and grind another.

outrider58 said:

I think I still have my first tube of string wax. Over 40 years old.

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Same here, with a little less than half the tube left:



The wax sold by Ten Point for their crossbows is much softer and melts in more easily. Because of the reviews stating premature string wear, I wanted to use their wax, even though I am skeptical of it's magic.

I use a piece of leather from an old shooting tab to burnish it in. It's been used so long, it's getting a hole worn in it.

Archeryrob said:

I started years back after going to the butcher and hanging around to talk with them. Guy was butchering one and they brought it in from the eastern shore on a warm day. He was stating guy can shoot a deer, but can't invest in two bags of ice to keep it from going bad. Then stated how they grind it all together. You only get some of your deer ground back as it is all dome together.

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Yup, they don't keep it separated and this is one thing that really keeps me from having it processed and ground by someone else.

I fill my big cooler with ice before I go - better to throw the ice away if not needed than to risk the meat staying warm too long. Except Sikas (get them out of the mud first), I gut the deer within minutes of recovering it, then skin and quarter it and get it on ice within an hour or two, usually before leaving the woods.

I got my "big buck" in the '90s and only meat hunt now. Bucks are about the least good to eat, akin to killing a big old bull instead of a young steer. I prefer one that dresses out about 90# and often pass on shots at bigger deer. I see people hanging theirs to 'age' it, I see deer on racks exposed to sun and road dirt, I've seen people hang deer in camp for a few days at a time... I don't want any parts of that crap mixed in with mine.

Archeryrob said:

Many processors are expensive or do a really cheap job. My daughter used a cheap guy and be butterflied the loins and left the silver skin on it. Froze the rumps and band sawed them whole into steaks with the bone and connected tissues. Too thin and just terrible.

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Besides leaving the fat in it, bandsawed bone is probably the best way to ruin the flavor. Many butchers want to cut deer like beef and they just ruin it.

Archeryrob said:

I bought the bite bite 12 4 years for about $360 and they are $530 now.

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"bite bite 12" ?? Some type of grinder?

I've got a Cabela's 1-1/2 HP grinder that does a great job.

Archeryrob said:

I also use meat tubs and process over a couple of days. My back hurts and doo roasts and back strap one night and trim and grind another.

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That's about what I do and I keep it in bags (to keep it dry) on ice in one of my big coolers until I can get to cutting. When I had good help, two whole deer in an evening was do-able. Now, I do it by myself and it takes forever to finish one. I used to take as many deer as legally possible and if three walked in, I'd take three home. Now, I only take one at a time and it's going to be a small one.

It worked:



Where I was:



Got in the stand at about 3pm Thursday afternoon. Had two come in at dusk. One behind a tree, the other in the open, but head-on toward me at 20 yards. Waited for a better shot, but no luck. When the one I could see dropped it's head, I shot it from the top into the base of the neck. Arrow struck behind the crosshair, ranged down through the chest, clipping the heart, and exiting at the solar plexus. Except a few small drops, almost no blood for 30 yards, then buckets, then 10 yards later, dead deer. Exit hole plugged with lungs and fat, all blood was blown out through the nose and mouth and sprayed all over. Deer's legs buckled at the hit and never straightened up, took a straight line run and I could hear it crash.

No bones hit. The Ten Point 'Center-Point' broadhead cut a big hole on both sides of the deer. 20" arrow fully penetrated and apparently buried in past the nock. I knew exactly where the deer was standing and I looked for the arrow for a few minutes, but couldn't find it.

It worked! Congrats on your hind and new crossbow!

E.Shell said:

It worked:

View attachment 437003

Where I was:

View attachment 437007

Got in the stand at about 3pm Thursday afternoon. Had two come in at dusk. One behind a tree, the other in the open, but head-on toward me at 20 yards. Waited for a better shot, but no luck. When the one I could see dropped it's head, I shot it from the top into the base of the neck. Arrow struck behind the crosshair, ranged down through the chest, clipping the heart, and exiting at the solar plexus. Except a few small drops, almost no blood for 30 yards, then buckets, then 10 yards later, dead deer. Exit hole plugged with lungs and fat, all blood was blown out through the nose and mouth and sprayed all over. Deer's legs buckled at the hit and never straightened up, took a straight line run and I could hear it crash.

No bones hit. The Ten Point 'Center-Point' broadhead cut a big hole on both sides of the deer. 20" arrow fully penetrated and apparently buried in past the nock. I knew exactly where the deer was standing and I looked for the arrow for a few minutes, but couldn't find it.

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Nice Ed. Is that a hind Sika? Good eats, I hear.

E.Shell said:

It worked:

View attachment 437003

Where I was:

View attachment 437007

Got in the stand at about 3pm Thursday afternoon. Had two come in at dusk. One behind a tree, the other in the open, but head-on toward me at 20 yards. Waited for a better shot, but no luck. When the one I could see dropped it's head, I shot it from the top into the base of the neck. Arrow struck behind the crosshair, ranged down through the chest, clipping the heart, and exiting at the solar plexus. Except a few small drops, almost no blood for 30 yards, then buckets, then 10 yards later, dead deer. Exit hole plugged with lungs and fat, all blood was blown out through the nose and mouth and sprayed all over. Deer's legs buckled at the hit and never straightened up, took a straight line run and I could hear it crash.

No bones hit. The Ten Point 'Center-Point' broadhead cut a big hole on both sides of the deer. 20" arrow fully penetrated and apparently buried in past the nock. I knew exactly where the deer was standing and I looked for the arrow for a few minutes, but couldn't find it.

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Congrats
Good looking deer and rig

Congrats

Congrats!

also, I did not notice your reply before. The big Bite #12 is a 3/4 horse grinder from LEM. I bought it for grinding and using with the 25# mixer. It is a good grinder but at 1 1/2 hp, you bought a monster for just grinding the brought home deer.

I'm feeling your pain with home processing. I got to start working my core as age and this desk job is wearing me out when the hard work starts. I can jump in with both feet, but 3 hours later, i and saying we can finish this tomorrow. Or that is what my back is creaming.

Archeryrob said:

Congrats!

also, I did not notice your reply before. The big Bite #12 is a 3/4 horse grinder from LEM. I bought it for grinding and using with the 25# mixer. It is a good grinder but at 1 1/2 hp, you bought a monster for just grinding the brought home deer.

I'm feeling your pain with home processing. I got to start working my core as age and this desk job is wearing me out when the hard work starts. I can jump in with both feet, but 3 hours later, i and saying we can finish this tomorrow. Or that is what my back is creaming.

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People give me shit for not processing my own deer. They don't know or understand my day job.
Eff'm

You do what makes you happy and you're right, F'em. I process mine because I an particular about how my meat is handled and don't think a lot of other guys take care of their deer before taking it to processors. I don't want my meat, mixed with theirs and that is what they do.

It is a lot of work, when done right. I absolutely hate deer fat and processors don't take it all out. I nit pick that crap out. Tomorrow I am doing the grind for my buck I shot. I will spend two hours chopping and cutting the fat off the meat and 1/2 hour grinding and bagging it. A processor will spend a 1/2 hour grinding it, or less, because they pile it together. I kicked my daughter out of helping because she leaves too much fat in. Deer fat is awful, if i have not made that clear.