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  • JamesDong

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Aug 13, 2020
    3,260
    Duffield, Va
    I'm looking at this P38 that's probably 50%, not real pretty but good shooter grade. The barrel is clean, no pits and seems to function fine.

    Talk to me Goose, what might it be worth. They're pretty proud of it as per the $1000.00 price tag. (was 1100.00)

    Oldie steel frame war bring back or so they think.
    I'll be going back Thursday, maybe offer up a duckbill sks as partial trade. Not knowing about Walthers this could be a 500 dollar shooter or Rommel's go to.
     

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    Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,282
    HoCo
    I think the holster adds what $200-$250 to the value?
    If so, that makes it a $750-$800 gun which seems appropriate to me.
    Does it have the magazine?
     

    JamesDong

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Aug 13, 2020
    3,260
    Duffield, Va
    I think the holster adds what $200-$250 to the value?
    If so, that makes it a $750-$800 gun which seems appropriate to me.
    Does it have the magazine?

    Yup one mag that's pretty ugly. She thought it a big deal that it had original rounds that go with it. To me their corrosive novelties.
     

    KH195

    Ultimate Member
    Jan 10, 2013
    1,550
    Virginia
    Sounds high for the condition to me but I’m far from an expert on these. somd_mustangs is the one to ask on P.38s, hopefully he will see your thread and weigh in.
     

    JamesDong

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Aug 13, 2020
    3,260
    Duffield, Va
    Sounds high for the condition to me but I’m far from an expert on these. somd_mustangs is the one to ask on P.38s, hopefully he will see your thread and weigh in.

    That's what I'm hoping for. I have a Luger that I paid 2 1/2 of this ones asking price but it's beautiful. I'm hoping this "might" be a rare bird but I have no idea.
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,712
    Yeah, that's kind of a dog, there are better out there for that price. The holster is rough too and probably $100-150, a lot of stitching would need to be repaired at the very least. Looks like one belt loop was replaced at some point. Originally this ac/41 came with two magazines numbered to the gun on the toe. In the condition it's in it probably doesn't matter if it's got the matched number barrel locking block but that should match too (last 3 digits of the S/N, and "F" suffix stamped on the bottom of the block). If it has bring-back paperwork that might add a little value. But you're still short of what they are asking by a fair amount I think. If it has an original numbers-matched magazine then you're getting closer.

    Having said that, I bet the shop sells it to someone for $1k. Just don't let it be you :)

    If you're looking for a shooter, just be aware that the WW2 P.38's do have some weaknesses, like potential for cracking slide or lock block. You can build a really robust one with a modern slide and forged block for not a whole lot of money on top of the gun price.
     

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    JamesDong

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Aug 13, 2020
    3,260
    Duffield, Va
    Yeah, that's kind of a dog, there are better out there for that price. The holster is rough too and probably $100-150, a lot of stitching would need to be repaired at the very least. Looks like one belt loop was replaced at some point. Originally this ac/41 came with two magazines numbered to the gun on the toe. In the condition it's in it probably doesn't matter if it's got the matched number barrel locking block but that should match too (last 3 digits of the S/N, and "F" suffix stamped on the bottom of the block). If it has bring-back paperwork that might add a little value. But you're still short of what they are asking by a fair amount I think. If it has an original numbers-matched magazine then you're getting closer.

    Having said that, I bet the shop sells it to someone for $1k. Just don't let it be you :)

    If you're looking for a shooter, just be aware that the WW2 P.38's do have some weaknesses, like potential for cracking slide or lock block. You can build a really robust one with a modern slide and forged block for not a whole lot of money on top of the gun price.

    Good info and thanks, you just saved me 1000 bucks. :)
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,712
    no worries... I looked up the holster because I didn't recognize the WaA29. It's actually a somewhat uncommon maker, bdr/41 marking only made for a short time. It may be worth almost as much as the pistol if it was in better condition :) Whoever gets it probably won't care, but it would be worth sending it off to the holster doc to get it fixed up.
     

    ted76

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 20, 2013
    3,151
    Frederick
    Do the rest of the serial numbers match? That one is in pretty rough condition.
    The holster bumps the price up some, but a $500-$600 shooter + a $200-$250 holster doesn't = $1,000 set.
    I don't think that that is worth anywhere near $1000, in that condition, even if all the numbers match.
    I paid +/- $800 each for each of my numbers matching CYQ & AC P-38's in much better condition just a few years ago.
    I am looking for a numbers matching BYF, to round out that group, for a reasonable price.
    Some of the prices on Gun Broker for P-38's are just insane right now.
     
    Last edited:
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,712
    The prices for P.38's have gone up considerably in the past year or so across the board - for 90+% examples.
    Shooter grade pretty much not.
    Still deals out there but you have to be patient and dig.
     

    Nixon

    Active Member
    Jun 28, 2010
    229
    Yeah, that's kind of a dog, there are better out there for that price. The holster is rough too and probably $100-150, a lot of stitching would need to be repaired at the very least. Looks like one belt loop was replaced at some point. Originally this ac/41 came with two magazines numbered to the gun on the toe. In the condition it's in it probably doesn't matter if it's got the matched number barrel locking block but that should match too (last 3 digits of the S/N, and "F" suffix stamped on the bottom of the block). If it has bring-back paperwork that might add a little value. But you're still short of what they are asking by a fair amount I think. If it has an original numbers-matched magazine then you're getting closer.

    Having said that, I bet the shop sells it to someone for $1k. Just don't let it be you :)

    If you're looking for a shooter, just be aware that the WW2 P.38's do have some weaknesses, like potential for cracking slide or lock block. You can build a really robust one with a modern slide and forged block for not a whole lot of money on top of the gun price.

    "modern slide and forged block"- where would you recommend I purchase these from?
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,712
    The slide is easy, they are on ebay all the time - at least the stripped ones are. Building one up can be challenging if you don't have a donor slide. Parts from a WW2 slide won't totally interchange so you need a 1960's donor, or source the parts individually. The reinforced "fat" slide is easy to tell because the cocking serration area is much larger and extends in front of the safety lever.

    There is a full late slide on there now as well, which are much harder to find and the price of that one is cheaper than finding all the parts and putting one together.

    The locking block is tougher because parts houses don't necessarily know or separate out the forged from the cast. A cast block has a depression with letters and/or numbers (lot number I think), and a forged block is smooth. Both the reinforced slide and the forged block came into play in the early 70's but many earlier P1/P38 got upgraded.

    The usual suspects typically have parts, Numrich, Apex, CDNN, etc. or keep trolling ebay and Gunbroker. You''ll probably have to source a reproduction extractor and plunger from JackFirst as the originals seem to be unobtanium for some reason.
     

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    Jul 1, 2012
    5,712
    Thanks for the link(s), RTG was who I was thinking of and got them confused with Robertson Trading Post (who was selling a ton of P1's at one point).
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    The slide is easy, they are on ebay all the time - at least the stripped ones are. Building one up can be challenging if you don't have a donor slide. Parts from a WW2 slide won't totally interchange so you need a 1960's donor, or source the parts individually. The reinforced "fat" slide is easy to tell because the cocking serration area is much larger and extends in front of the safety lever.

    There is a full late slide on there now as well, which are much harder to find and the price of that one is cheaper than finding all the parts and putting one together.

    The locking block is tougher because parts houses don't necessarily know or separate out the forged from the cast. A cast block has a depression with letters and/or numbers (lot number I think), and a forged block is smooth. Both the reinforced slide and the forged block came into play in the early 70's but many earlier P1/P38 got upgraded.

    The usual suspects typically have parts, Numrich, Apex, CDNN, etc. or keep trolling ebay and Gunbroker. You''ll probably have to source a reproduction extractor and plunger from JackFirst as the originals seem to be unobtanium for some reason.

    Huh. I didn’t realize that on the locking blocks. I need to go check my P1 tomorrow to see. I think mine is smooth, thus forged. Must have been replaced at some point as it is mid 60s production. Non-reinforcing pin frame.

    Of course it may turn out it’s cast.
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,712
    Nein. The P4 block is different (the "ears" are bigger). That's why it has "P4" etched on it, so you won't mix them up.
     

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