Newbie looking for a BP revolver. Questions

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  • benton0311

    Active Member
    Feb 26, 2011
    358
    I didn't bid on the Hawes. To much uncertainty, but I really like the used look. I see Remington and Colt replicas all over. I have seen a few genuine Colt BP guns, but generally out of my price range. I kinda want a blued, steel frame gun, with wood grips. Nothing shiny or flashy yet, to match a lever gun. I am looking at a very flashy gun, but not sure if I can afford it yet. It's a Pietta (sp?)

    Pietta makes pre-aged models - "Old West" is what they call the models with patina'd finish.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,919
    Socialist State of Maryland
    It's real easy to make an "aged" firearm using bluing remover, lemon oil, mustard, ketchup and Birchwod Casey bluing (the kind in the tube). I've done it to an 1892, 1894, 1851, 1860 and a couple of Lyman front stuffers. The first thing people usually ask when they see one if my aged guns is "wow, how old is that rifle"? When I tell them it is a 1980 gun they don't want to believe it. :lol:
     

    Ranchero50

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 15, 2012
    5,411
    Hagerstown MD
    I didn't bid on the Hawes. To much uncertainty, but I really like the used look. I see Remington and Colt replicas all over. I have seen a few genuine Colt BP guns, but generally out of my price range. I kinda want a blued, steel frame gun, with wood grips. Nothing shiny or flashy yet, to match a lever gun. I am looking at a very flashy gun, but not sure if I can afford it yet. It's a Pietta (sp?)

    I bought pretty much the same combo, only Pietta and a lefty holster for $150 at a local pawn shop back in January. The new pistols I've bought have needed tweaked, especially the wood fitment so don't be afraid if you want an aged looking one.

    My favorite looker. PITA to load though. :)
    https://www.emf-company.com/store/pc/1851-Navy-U-S-Marshal-44-5-1-2-110p1808.htm
     

    Threeband

    The M1 Does My Talking
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 30, 2006
    25,309
    Carroll County
    I am kinda stuck between the Remington 1858s and the Colt 1860 models for some reason.

    Then get a Navy Colt!

    (By the way, if it's not .36, it's not a Navy.)


    Congratulations! I think you'll like your "Army caliber" Navy. I hope so, anyway.

    I was a little hard on those .44 "Navys" in these old posts, and I really hope you won't take it to heart. I'm really not such a purist stickler for historical accuracy as I may sound, and I wasn't really serious. There's nothing wrong with an oxymoron.

    I really like the boxy styling of the '51 better than the "streamline" design of the 1860, so putting a '51 style Army-caliber(.44) barrel on an 1860 Army (rebated) frame results in a really nice gun-that-never-was: an 1851 Army.

    https://www.mdshooters.com/showpost.php?p=4337588&postcount=2

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Threeband View Post

    I think you should just shoot it.

    It's actually a cross between an 1860 Army (rebated frame and cylinder) with an 1851 style loading lever and octagonal barrel. It looks like it has the longer 1860 grip, too.

    "Army" means .44 caliber, and "Navy" means .36, in the usage of the day.
    http://www.mdshooters.com/showpost.p...2&postcount=39


    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Threeband View Post

    Those .44 "Navys" are oxymoronic.

    In the usage of the day, "Navy caliber" meant .36, while "Army caliber" meant .44. So a .44 Navy is a contradiction in terms.

    The '51 Navy was significant as the first fighting sixgun of a practical size for belt-holster carry. The Dragoons were too big, the Baby Dragoons were too small, but the Navy was juuuuust right. The Navy had a reputation as a decent man-stopper, too, when loaded with round balls. (Per Elmer Keith, whose Civil War informant told him the conical bullets were poor man stoppers. Sixguns)

    Anyway, in 1851, it was not possible to get a six-shot .44 cylinder on a Navy-size frame. It just would not fit. But by 1860, Colt solved the problem by rebating the frame and cylinder. Look closely at the 1860 Army, and you'll see a step in the frame, and a matching step in the cylinder. This trick allowed Colt to make a .44 six-shooter on a .36 size frame.

    You'll see the same rebated 1860-type set up on those phony-baloney ".44 Navys".


    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Threeband View Post

    My first handgun was a '51 Navy. It was an Uberti I picked up at the Dallas gun show back in '81. Of course by that time, the new-fangled cartridge guns were getting pretty common... But anyway...

    The '51 Navy was always .36 caliber. In fact, back in the day, "Navy caliber" meant .36, while "Army caliber" meant .44. Those so-called ".44 navys" are oxymorons.

    Colt made .31s on a small frame, .36s on a medium frame, and .44s on a humongous frame: the Dragoons. The Navy was popular because is was the ideal size, but Colt just could not fit a six shot .44 cylinder on that Navy-size frame.

    Then a designer (was it Root???) had the brilliant idea of rebating the cylinder: making a cylinder with a step in it, with the rear section the smaller Navy diameter, and the front section enlarged to hold six rounds of .44. The frame had to be stepped also, but otherwise it was the same as the Navy frame. The new medium frame .44 was the 1860 Army. If you look at a good photo of a '60 Army (or better yet, handle the real thing), you will see the step in the frame matching the rebated cylinder.

    ...

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Threeband View Post
    ...
    It is a practical set up. Not historical, but so what?

    Get one!

    I like the 5 1/2" barrel Remingtons, too.
    __________________
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,919
    Socialist State of Maryland
    I bought pretty much the same combo, only Pietta and a lefty holster for $150 at a local pawn shop back in January. The new pistols I've bought have needed tweaked, especially the wood fitment so don't be afraid if you want an aged looking one.

    My favorite looker. PITA to load though. :)
    https://www.emf-company.com/store/pc/1851-Navy-U-S-Marshal-44-5-1-2-110p1808.htm

    There is a special tool for short Colts and Remingtons that make them easy to load. I've had one for about 10 years and can't live without it, especially now that my arthritis is getting worse. It's made by Slix Shot I think but this guy sells them.

    https://www.badmanbullets.com/OnlineStore/proddetail.php?prod=SliX-Hand
     

    K31

    "Part of that Ultra MAGA Crowd"
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 15, 2006
    35,674
    AA county
    I am kinda stuck between the Remington 1858s and the Colt 1860 models for some reason.

    Buy the 1858, especially if you think you'll ever want a drop in cylinder for metallic cartridges. Easier teardown for clean up. You don't want to not shoot it for dreading the cleanup afterwards.

    Later, if you like the hobby and have to have one, you can get that as well.
     

    Threeband

    The M1 Does My Talking
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 30, 2006
    25,309
    Carroll County
    Even if I practiced a lot, I can't see swapping cylinders like that on an unmodified Remington. It takes a lot of fidgeting because the hand, the bolt, and the hammer all get involved at different moments. I have to make several adjustments in the mammer position while rotating and pushing the cylinder.

    I suspect that both the hand and the locking bolt were removed from the movie gun. It would also help to remove the nose of the hammer and seriously polish the cylinder pin.
     

    benton0311

    Active Member
    Feb 26, 2011
    358
    Even if I practiced a lot, I can't see swapping cylinders like that on an unmodified Remington. It takes a lot of fidgeting because the hand, the bolt, and the hammer all get involved at different moments. I have to make several adjustments in the mammer position while rotating and pushing the cylinder.

    I suspect that both the hand and the locking bolt were removed from the movie gun. It would also help to remove the nose of the hammer and seriously polish the cylinder pin.

    Did you see the YouTube links I posted? I’m not quite that quick but not too far off. There’s a technique to it but, even doing it slowish, I can do it faster than reloading a gated cartridge revolver or single loading a modern swing-out revolver without speed loader.

    Edit: Have one of 'em handy. Just tried - don't have much practice and I'm around 6-7 seconds. That's dropping the cylinder onto the couch and picking it back up again so not sure how that compares to a properly setup pouch. If you really wanted to make it quick you could slightly chamfer the bore of the front of the cylinder so the pin slides right in and self-aligns the cylinder when reinstalling.
     

    Bohemian

    Member
    Nov 7, 2009
    60
    So, I am looking to get into BP, and want a revolver. I have been Googling the crap out of things, but my brain has turned to mush and stuff is blurring together. I am looking for a revolver. I have been looking at 1848 Dragoons (big suckas), 1851, 1858, and 1860 revolvers.
    1. Which model is best for a beginner?

    2. I have seen brass, steel, and nickel frames? For BP, is there much difference in durability between the 3? I understand steel frames are recommended if planning to do a cylinder conversion. I may, or may not in the future, not sure, but the option is nice.

    3. Brand differences. What is better, or not good? The brands I have seen are Traditions/Pietta, Uberti, some higher end Colt BP guns, and a company if I recall called Whitteny. Any that are better, or to stay away from?

    4. Can you ONLY shoot round balls out of these, or can you shoot molder conical lead bullets? I am mainly looking for a .44 caliber revolver. Also considering buying BP pellets as well as just powder.


    Thanks for any insight, suggestions, or tips. Have a good evening.

    My cousin & I shot a lot of different black powder stuff a number of years ago when they were much cheaper to buy or put together from kits, etc.

    I liked the black powder kits because you had to finish the grips and blue the metal yourself, gives you a little closer kinship to your firearm.

    My cousin & I cast all our own balls from .36 cal to .50 cal from lead wheelweights, which are getting hard to find in cradle to grave oppressive nanny states like commiefornia and others.

    One of them I enjoyed a lot & shot a lot was a 1851 .44 From Navy Arms when they still made all there stuff here in the USA. Never had any trouble with it, sold it to another cousin who still has it, some 30 years later.
    It looks pretty much like this one and I could shoot it all day long one handed.
    https://www.budsgunshop.com/product...itions+fr18511+1851+navy+revolver+44cal+7375"

    Today I think Ruger makes the best and possibly only Made in USA black powder pistols you can buy. This .45 Army is a good looking gun, I have no doubt being a ruger that it's well made and over engineered.
    https://www.budsgunshop.com/product_info.php/products_id/415001912

    I think as far as black powder pistols goes anything not made by ruger is going to be made in italy, regardless whose label is on it.
    I hope I'm wrong or that changes soon, been getting the black powder bug again.
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    33,173
    I had a thread about my recent Adjustable. Pietta 1858 on sale for $250 .

    Ruger Old Armys are great guns , but these days go for collector prices .

    1858 vs 1860 is matter of preference . The 1858 is more " modern" in design , the Colt, is a Colt .

    " Nickle" guns are almost always nickle plated brass frames .

    For the price difference in new guns , steel is definitely worth the small upcharge . If you find a used brass in good condition for dirt cheap , it will probably be worthwhile .
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,919
    Socialist State of Maryland
    If you plan to shoot alot of BP or use a cartridge conversion cylinder, I suggest you get an 1858. The reason is that, if you shoot a lot, you will break hand springs in a Colt.

    Additionally, the barrel wedges are made soft today to keep frames from stretching.
    If you shoot store bought 45 Colt ammo, your wedges will get peened and the damn things cost about $25 bucks these days.

    I have yet to break a part in any of my 1858's, Pietta or Uberti and I shoot heavy loads of 777 and 1000 FPS 45 Colt loads. You can't do this with a Colt type revolver.
     

    Sirex

    Powered by natural gas
    Oct 30, 2010
    10,423
    Westminster, MD
    My plan has evolved to buying a 1858 to learn on and shoot, and a Colt 1851 (a specific one) just for looks or display, and only shooting it if I am challenged to a duel.
     

    Mike OTDP

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 12, 2008
    3,324
    So, I am looking to get into BP, and want a revolver. I have been Googling the crap out of things, but my brain has turned to mush and stuff is blurring together. I am looking for a revolver. I have been looking at 1848 Dragoons (big suckas), 1851, 1858, and 1860 revolvers.
    1. Which model is best for a beginner?

    2. I have seen brass, steel, and nickel frames? For BP, is there much difference in durability between the 3? I understand steel frames are recommended if planning to do a cylinder conversion. I may, or may not in the future, not sure, but the option is nice.

    3. Brand differences. What is better, or not good? The brands I have seen are Traditions/Pietta, Uberti, some higher end Colt BP guns, and a company if I recall called Whitteny. Any that are better, or to stay away from?

    4. Can you ONLY shoot round balls out of these, or can you shoot molder conical lead bullets? I am mainly looking for a .44 caliber revolver. Also considering buying BP pellets as well as just powder.


    Thanks for any insight, suggestions, or tips. Have a good evening.

    Back to the OP:

    1. If you want to do any serious shooting, the Remington 1858 is the gold standard. The Colt 1851 and 1861 Navy models are fun to play with, but not serious shooters at distance.

    2. Stick with steel frames. They are more durable, and usually more authentic.

    3. Right now, the only companies making the percussion revolvers are Pietta, Uberti, and Pedersoli. I'd rate them in the following order:

    a. Pedersoli "Custom" 1858. This is a serious competitive shooting instrument.
    b. (tie) Pedersoli 1858 and Pietta "Shooter's Model" 1858. These also shoot well, but need a trigger job to get best accuracy.
    c. (tie) Pietta regular-grade 1858, or the Uberti Colt repros.

    The Ruger Old Army is out of production, but is a very good gun, and can be found in excellent condition for $600 or so.

    4. You can shoot conicals...but the round balls shoot straighter. At the 2018 World Muzzle-Loading Championships, 99% of the competitors shot round balls. Use 3F black powder. Put the substitutes into the garden as fertilizer.
     

    Sirex

    Powered by natural gas
    Oct 30, 2010
    10,423
    Westminster, MD
    Back to the OP:

    1. If you want to do any serious shooting, the Remington 1858 is the gold standard. The Colt 1851 and 1861 Navy models are fun to play with, but not serious shooters at distance.

    2. Stick with steel frames. They are more durable, and usually more authentic.

    3. Right now, the only companies making the percussion revolvers are Pietta, Uberti, and Pedersoli. I'd rate them in the following order:

    a. Pedersoli "Custom" 1858. This is a serious competitive shooting instrument.
    b. (tie) Pedersoli 1858 and Pietta "Shooter's Model" 1858. These also shoot well, but need a trigger job to get best accuracy.
    c. (tie) Pietta regular-grade 1858, or the Uberti Colt repros.

    The Ruger Old Army is out of production, but is a very good gun, and can be found in excellent condition for $600 or so.

    4. You can shoot conicals...but the round balls shoot straighter. At the 2018 World Muzzle-Loading Championships, 99% of the competitors shot round balls. Use 3F black powder. Put the substitutes into the garden as fertilizer.

    Thank you. I looked at, and love the Pedersoli custom, but it is well out of my price range for now. I am going to buy an Uberti to learn with. Eventually, after buying a 1858 and 1851, I'd like to buy an actual antique, real 1858 Remingon. I'll probably just shoot roundballs, I was just mainly asking about the conicals because I saw them on a couple sights and was curious. But yeah, the Pedersoli is a beautiful gun;

    https://www.davide-pedersoli.com/sc...ttern-remington-pattern-pedersoli-custom.html
     

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