I've got a CVA Hawken rifle (I bought it new in the early 90s) that's been hanging on my wall for nearly 30 years and never been fired. Now that I'm retired and getting back into shooting I want to take it out to the range. Is there a recommended relatively local shop (I'm in Annapolis) that will have the #11 caps, powder (black or substitute), patches, and .490 balls in stock? Or is that hit or miss and I will need to cobble what I need together from various sources? Thanks.
CVA Hawken
- Thread starter tjiann
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You can try the Saint Firearms or The Gun Shop both in Essex. Saint is the old HNP Muzzleloaders. The owner is a member here and goes by “The Saint”.
Pale Ryder
Ultimate Member
I think Anglers will have what you need.
I have everything but caps, currently...that's the one thing I can't locate currently.
Absolutely, I wouldn't trust that old wooden one to hold up at all. Thanks.
No powder or caps at Anglers. Nice gun sale going on right now though.
Thanks. Hopefully you can locate some soon.
if you need a tin of caps ,. let me know. you can replace them when you get them later . dan
Archeryrob
Undecided on a great many things
Don't buy Pryodex, or at least not the RS crap I got. Hard to clean and stuff will still rust the gun if you don't clean it. I hated it in my inline for being hard to clean.
I don;t know your area for parts, but supply is hit and miss everywhere. I have the same gun and #10 caps works better on it even though the manual says #11's. I have to lightly bite #11 caps to oval them when hunting or they will fall off. Missed an 8 point buck to find that out the first time. 15 yards and clack and he looked right at me and just keeps on walking.
I normally go to Fort Chambers in Chambersburg, as he specializes in all things flintlock and percussion. That is probably too far for most of you though.
I don;t know your area for parts, but supply is hit and miss everywhere. I have the same gun and #10 caps works better on it even though the manual says #11's. I have to lightly bite #11 caps to oval them when hunting or they will fall off. Missed an 8 point buck to find that out the first time. 15 yards and clack and he looked right at me and just keeps on walking.
I normally go to Fort Chambers in Chambersburg, as he specializes in all things flintlock and percussion. That is probably too far for most of you though.
Not sure how plentiful musket caps are, but you could always switch out to a musket cap nipple and run those. I run musket caps on all of my old cap lock rifles.
I've used Pyrodex for years and never once had a problem unless it was my own fault. It's more corrosive if left unattended, that's not contestable...but simply stick to the procedure of "you shoot it, you clean it" (which every black powder shooter should do, anyway) and you'll never have a problem with rust. Pyrodex develops a flaky crusty buildup that, combined with an ultrasonic cleaner, makes getting it off as easy as can be on revolvers; Or the traditional bucket of hot water and a flushing method for long guns. Complaining about cleaning in any sense with black powder or subs simply means you should probably stick with smokeless and that it isn't for you; cleaning is part of the ritual, and quite enjoyable IMO.
I use Pyrodex RS and P in all my rifles shotguns and pistols and have been many years. It is corrosive as hell when poor maintenance measures aren't implemented.
Pistols/flinters I do prefer Black powder for ease of ignition in most cases. Pyrodex is hard to light I think but gets good consistency and better with consistent loading technique.
My muzzle loaders are as accurate as many center fire rifles I own for the short hunting ranges they are intended for. (100yds zero<)
Some a few that are exceptional, are even more so with irons when I do my part.
CVA /Traditions or any type with a bolster and clean out screw, drill a small in the bolster to act as a vent. (that doesn't interfere with the clean out screw-angled forward) It will prevent a common cap or High hat from compressing air in front the flash and increase consistency accuracy when firing repetitively and or plinking.
Lots of times ignition time with lock improvements makes a big difference while shooting. Replace bolster if you dont like the result or just install a grub screw if possible.
I dont have a problem with other substitute powders that area available these days I just dont find a need for them for myself.
Pyrodex used to be cheap available and works well with the exception of the corrosive nature of it when maintenance is not performed regularly.
Regarding hunting for the most part I started into smokeless ML/s years ago just to not have to clean immediately after use or when I did a lot of travel to and fro.
Pistols/flinters I do prefer Black powder for ease of ignition in most cases. Pyrodex is hard to light I think but gets good consistency and better with consistent loading technique.
My muzzle loaders are as accurate as many center fire rifles I own for the short hunting ranges they are intended for. (100yds zero<)
Some a few that are exceptional, are even more so with irons when I do my part.
CVA /Traditions or any type with a bolster and clean out screw, drill a small in the bolster to act as a vent. (that doesn't interfere with the clean out screw-angled forward) It will prevent a common cap or High hat from compressing air in front the flash and increase consistency accuracy when firing repetitively and or plinking.
Lots of times ignition time with lock improvements makes a big difference while shooting. Replace bolster if you dont like the result or just install a grub screw if possible.
I dont have a problem with other substitute powders that area available these days I just dont find a need for them for myself.
Pyrodex used to be cheap available and works well with the exception of the corrosive nature of it when maintenance is not performed regularly.
Regarding hunting for the most part I started into smokeless ML/s years ago just to not have to clean immediately after use or when I did a lot of travel to and fro.
BuildnBurn
Professional Pyro
I used Hoppe's #9+ as patch lube for my CVA Hawkin rifle, otherwise it would be a struggle to reload because of the fouling
Just as an update. I was able to get some CCi #11 percussion caps at Albright's in Easton. He had 5 tins left when I was there Tuesday. Will sell 2 per customer. He did not have powder however, only 50/50 pellets.
I was able to get out and shoot the Hawken for the first time (and learn a lot about my gun) thanks to John from MD. Used the Pyrodex powder and it shot and cleaned up great. Some Ballistol and warm water mix and flushing of the barrel, then lube. I am hooked. Looking forward to getting out and shooting the muzzleloader a lot!
I was able to get out and shoot the Hawken for the first time (and learn a lot about my gun) thanks to John from MD. Used the Pyrodex powder and it shot and cleaned up great. Some Ballistol and warm water mix and flushing of the barrel, then lube. I am hooked. Looking forward to getting out and shooting the muzzleloader a lot!
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Once you start, you never stop. I shoot them over my smokeless guns anyday...it's just way more fun. I'll take my T/C Hawken to the range and spend 5-6 hours shooting that single rifle at paper, and never get bored.
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