M1A Maintenance and Lubrication

[HWB3]

Wanted to know how to properly lubricate and maintain a new M1A Loaded rifle. I understand general cleaning and lubrication but the manual that is included with the rifle indicates that a "Loaded and National Match" rifle should not be field stripped. How then is the grease and oil to be applied as indicated on the Springfield website?

 

[Doco Overboard]

So what the warning is about is not separating the stock components on a rifle and disturbing the bedding which I think is only done on the Super Match for a factory assembled rifle.
The loaded rifle I own was only available with a plastic stock and no NM bedding, rear lug etc.
So I took that off and applied soem GI timber becuase well plastic and not fiberglass.

A Garand can be greased although not as easily as it would be if normally broken down.
The same methods can be used on a M1A with the biggest caveat between the two being the op rod saddle.
Work between the juncture of the upper HG and stock relief on the passenger side of the rifle.
Without dismounting the op rod the M1A has the friction removing roller, important surfaces are the opening cams ramps on any of the two models and the bolt milling which can be done externally. Nose of the bolt where it meets the barrel tenon/reciever bridge etc.

Even on a regular Garand, it usually takes a number of shots to settle in the bedding particularly with worn rifles that do not have enough tension at the bottom metal bear points astride the mag well.
Use a needle oiler where necessary. Remember a M1A has a mag well for additional access.
The good news is they're both robust rifles and do not need to have boutique oil soaking methods applied to them for reliable function or marrying of poor parts selection. However periodic lubrication is necessary especially for a Garand but probably even less for a M1A.

Additionally, you have the ability to run an expertly assembled rifle using NM methods outside of component breakage until headspace increases past serviceable limits or the barrel wears out whichever comes first.
Thats usually an individual accomplishment by not cleaning the bore over heating and stuff like that.
Theirs at least two distinguished marksman who are forum members that Im aware of who can provide additional insight, one for sure who uses a M1A.

I bet both if they have bedded rifles at times do maintenance such as lubrication especially to op rod contact surfaces. Probably based on recorded performance like a score book and expenditure of rounds fired.
Bedding either a Garand or M1A correctly is a concept thats best left to someone with actual experience/knowledge because of the differing methods applied to each rifle. Early. Late, pillared, lugged rears, barrel tension and gas cylinder mating clearance etc. etc.

 

[brianns]

Check here and others on the site:

 

[HWB3]

So what the warning is about is not separating the stock components on a rifle and disturbing the bedding which I think is only done on the Super Match for a factory assembled rifle.
The loaded rifle I own was only available with a plastic stock and no NM bedding, rear lug etc.
So I took that off and applied soem GI timber becuase well plastic and not fiberglass.

A Garand can be greased although not as easily as it would be if normally broken down.
The same methods can be used on a M1A with the biggest caveat between the two being the op rod saddle.
Work between the juncture of the upper HG and stock relief on the passenger side of the rifle.
Without dismounting the op rod the M1A has the friction removing roller, important surfaces are the opening cams ramps on any of the two models and the bolt milling which can be done externally. Nose of the bolt where it meets the barrel tenon/reciever bridge etc.

Even on a regular Garand, it usually takes a number of shots to settle in the bedding particularly with worn rifles that do not have enough tension at the bottom metal bear points astride the mag well.
Use a needle oiler where necessary. Remember a M1A has a mag well for additional access.
The good news is they're both robust rifles and do not need to have boutique oil soaking methods applied to them for reliable function or marrying of poor parts selection. However periodic lubrication is necessary especially for a Garand but probably even less for a M1A.

Additionally, you have the ability to run an expertly assembled rifle using NM methods outside of component breakage until headspace increases past serviceable limits or the barrel wears out whichever comes first.
Thats usually an individual accomplishment by not cleaning the bore over heating and stuff like that.
Theirs at least two distinguished marksman who are forum members that Im aware of who can provide additional insight, one for sure who uses a M1A.

I bet both if they have bedded rifles at times do maintenance such as lubrication especially to op rod contact surfaces. Probably based on recorded performance like a score book and expenditure of rounds fired.
Bedding either a Garand or M1A correctly is a concept thats best left to someone with actual experience/knowledge because of the differing methods applied to each rifle. Early. Late, pillared, lugged rears, barrel tension and gas cylinder mating clearance etc. etc.

Thanks for the info and help. Want to make sure it's done correctly before I shoot it.

 

[BFMIN]

Oil things that rotate & lightly grease things that slide.
The bearing on the bolt handle needs grease & you have to gush it down inside the bearing. Those tiny grease pots at gun shows are perfect for this. Probably because they were designed to do it. Just push & turn then wiggle them remove. You can replace the grease easily.
Don't oil the gas piston or cylinder. You can lightly greast the front section of the op rod where it slides through the barrel bearing.
You can remove the metal from the wood but be careful not to twist it excessively or force it. Many leave the trigger guard unlatched, but in place for storage, its to let the wood "relax" from the clamping force of the guard locking.