I want to start reloading...

[pwoolford]

I'm interested in reloading my brass but not sure what is the best way to get started. I've spent many hours on the interwebs reading and watching videos about reloading so I have a basic understanding of the process. I shoot mostly 9mm and .40 (800-1000 rounds per month) and an occasional box of 5.56, 3.08, and 7.62x39. Here are the questions.

Most recommendations are to start with a book, then a single stage press, then move on to a progressive. I'm fine with that but for those that moved from single to progressive did you make the move because of volume of rounds you reloaded or another reason? Measuring the powder looks like another possible reason progressive would be easier.

Do most people pop out the old primers before cleaning the brass or after? I ran some brass through my ultrasonic cleaner then popped the primer and there was dirt behind the old primer I don't see how they deal with this on a progressive.

For those that started with a single then moved to progressive which models did you go with? The Hornady LNL or Dillon XL650 look nice but not sure how much extra stuff you get in the kits that I'll never use. Also, didn't want to spend $1k if I'll never make up the difference shooting 9mm.

 

[kalister1]

I clean the case before I De-Prime, I don't want to put the dirty case in the die. I too worried about the crud in the primer pocket and was told by people I trust not to worry about it, just load and shoot. Now that that is said, I do NOT ask for MOA accuracy from my loads. I shoot USPSA pistol mostly and a 8 x 10 "A" box is my target goal.
As far as going to a progressive press, I can't be a whole lot of help. I have an old single stage RCBS and a slightly newer, still old, Lee 4 stage turret(Manual rotation of the turret). I cannot see any BETTER ammo coming out of a progressive, just volume.
I have cases in all stages of reloading around the bench. I will sit and size/de-prime/prime for a few hours and call it quits. Then I charge with powder and seat and crimp bullets for a while.

 

[lx1x]

Primer removal: depends, postol rounds no.

rifle yes and no. I clean the brass, resize and then prep. Ie. Cut the brass if its over the max length,Debur, clean primer pocket etc. if I feel it needs more cleaning I dump it back to the tumbler.

Progressive is nice for loading pistol caliber. Depending on powder, some meter nicely and some dont.

I have hornady and loaded over 10k on it. No major issues but few user goof ups.

 

[Samuel]

I started on a progressive and had no problem learning. Saved the money of having to buy a single stage only to move on from it.

 

[lx1x]

I started on a progressive and had no problem learning. Saved the money of having to buy a single stage only to move on from it.

single stage is the best begginer setup.. know the basics before jumping to a more (can be) complicated process if you dont know what you are doing.

 

[august1410]

I use a Lee Hand Press. Of course, I load in such small amounts....

 

[MDMOUNTAINEER]

I'm interested in reloading my brass but not sure what is the best way to get started. I've spent many hours on the interwebs reading and watching videos about reloading so I have a basic understanding of the process. I shoot mostly 9mm and .40 (800-1000 rounds per month) and an occasional box of 5.56, 3.08, and 7.62x39. Here are the questions.

Most recommendations are to start with a book, then a single stage press, then move on to a progressive. I'm fine with that but for those that moved from single to progressive did you make the move because of volume of rounds you reloaded or another reason? Measuring the powder looks like another possible reason progressive would be easier.

Do most people pop out the old primers before cleaning the brass or after? I ran some brass through my ultrasonic cleaner then popped the primer and there was dirt behind the old primer I don't see how they deal with this on a progressive.

For those that started with a single then moved to progressive which models did you go with? The Hornady LNL or Dillon XL650 look nice but not sure how much extra stuff you get in the kits that I'll never use. Also, didn't want to spend $1k if I'll never make up the difference shooting 9mm.

I mostly reload .223, .338, .300wm and .308

I decap (de-prime) before I clean/tumble/polish). But this step can also be carried out by your sizing die all at one (meaning it will decap and size at the same time). By doing it separate, it takes more time because it adds another step. But I'd rather decap then clean. Either way, you have to have clean cases to size.

I mostly reload rifle rounds, and I'm anal, so I prefer a single stage press and hand measuring all my loads. I check after every step with calipers or a scale too (case length, COAL). I check charged case weights and final cartrdige weights too.

You're always going to have "dirt" in the primer pocket until you hit it with a primer pocket cleaner. Just carbon from the old primer. Even a tumbler wont get it out. They make a little tool for it that costs a couple of bucks.

 

[diesel-man]

Buy a Lee Classic Cast Turret press, use it single stage, and when...if...you decide that you need something better....you can always sell it.

Reload pistol brass first...save the rifle reloading for later. (more processes). As in trimming length, annealing the necks, loose pockets, stuck cases, etc.

Use a powder scale...don't be concerned about speed...were you concerned about speed when you first started to ride your bike...I was. )

Test your loads...process 5 rounds of each...go shoot them while you are at the range...it will save you from getting a lot of time with the bullet puller hammer....

When you think that a caveman can do it...and precision doesn't matter...things can go boom! No distractions at the range or the reloading bench... Observe what your spent casings are telling you (over pressure or hard extractions)

It takes a lot of reading to figure out why Joe likes this powder and Bob likes that powder. Sometimes it is just Chevy/Ford, or because that is what I have...and because that is how Uncle Cletus did it. Own a couple reloading books and always reference them...don't reload from memory.

Some people like lite bullets (for the caliber) and others like heavy. Lite bullets go fast and mushroom out, heavy go slow, penetrate better and hit like a hammer.

Hope that helps.

 

[Bikebreath]

In the last 2 months I've gone from single stage to progressive. There is a LOT going on at once on a progressive and it took me while to get the swing of it. There's a link below of my whining about the problems...problems that improved once I got the hang of it. I confess, I'm only moderately savvy with mechanical things...I'm not a mans man, to my disappointment.

http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=80757

To get back on topic ...I shoot IDPA and I'm getting into USPSA and need more of the load I like for 9mm. I got the Hornady LnL to crank out rounds faster. It's faster, but the claims of 300-400 rounds and hour are by people I deem more trusting than myself. I'm checking the powder drop frequently, seeing that things remain tightened, doing a check on OAL and over-all just going slow, so I can be sure things are correct. I'm doing about 130 rounds an hour and I'm happy with that. I want to hear bang...not BOOM.

It's nice to have a single stage if I decided to do precision loading. I do recommend starting on a single stage with something like 45ACP or .38/.357.

 

[Bolts Rock]

Most recommendations are to start with a book, then a single stage press, then move on to a progressive. I'm fine with that but for those that moved from single to progressive did you make the move because of volume of rounds you reloaded or another reason? Measuring the powder looks like another possible reason progressive would be easier.

ABC's Of Reloading is a good start then pick up a book from your preferred bullet manufacturer and powder manufacturer. I like progressive for shot shells but not much else.

Do most people pop out the old primers before cleaning the brass or after? I ran some brass through my ultrasonic cleaner then popped the primer and there was dirt behind the old primer I don't see how they deal with this on a progressive.

As said it depends, I always decap my rifle brass with a universal decapping die then clean in an ultrasonic with dish liquid and Lemi-Shine to get the crud out of the primer pockets with the least labor.

For those that started with a single then moved to progressive which models did you go with? The Hornady LNL or Dillon XL650 look nice but not sure how much extra stuff you get in the kits that I'll never use. Also, didn't want to spend $1k if I'll never make up the difference shooting 9mm.

It's always handy to have single stage available for load work up and precision loading. Rifle ammo and obsolete rounds is where you'll see the biggest savings.

 

[august1410]

I love my little primer pocket cleaner. I deprime/resize, then clean the primer pockets. I even talked my daughter into cleaning the primer pockets for me.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

I started in the 90's and still load on a single stage. Progressive really dosnt intrest me to be honest.

Bear in mind you need a little more space with a progressive then a single stage - so keep that in mind, when you are deciding where to set up your reloading bench.

I shoot probably 1k 45ACP a month, plus rifle rounds mixed in-and load on a single stage. If you do your reloading in batches, its not as slow as you think it is. I also shoot bench rest rounds, so a single stage is up my alley as well. Im more for precision then speed- but thats me. You can use a powder thrower to charge your cases on a single stage - and thats what I use on pistol rounds. For rifle, I underthrow, and trickle to my needed weight - and weigh each charge. But that method is not an absolute necessity.

If you decide to go progressive - there is always use for a single stage press. I use mine to size my cast bullets, and to swage primer pockets, in addition to loading rounds.

On cleaning your brass- I usally tumble after I resize my cases, mostly to clean out the case lube (if its a rifle round)-and to polish the outside of the case. The primers get pushed out once you resize the case.

I find cleaning out primer pockets to be a waste of time. I used to be religous about it - but it really does not make much difference on primer seating depth - since the rim of the primer does not get carbon under it. Usally I just let the tumbler get off what it does, and if any is still left in the primer pocket - dont worry about it. The primer will still seat flush, and the carbon in the primer pocket or inside the case, does not make a single bit of difference on accuracy, or the round going off. I would be more concerned that you do not have a piece of cleaning media jammed in the flash hole, then carbon in the pocket - make sure you clear out the flash hole. An unfolded paper clip works perfect.

You are making a wise choice to learn how to handload/reload. You will enjoy shooting alot more - and you will shoot more often!

 

[dj_in_md]

Welcome to the world of reloading. It's a rewarding experience.

I started reloading in the 70s with a lyman single stage kit which I still have to this day. It included all I needed to reload. I started reloading for the satisfaction of building an accurate round and not having to rely on commercial ammo. As the years passed I added various reloading tools/toys to the collection. I also clean my brass prior sizing. I don't like dirt getting in my dies. The crud in the primer pocket has not affected my reloads that I'm aware of. Three years ago I purchased a Hornady Lock n Load. It does not come with everything you need to reload with. You will have to purchase additional shell plates, bushings, dies, lock out die (which I highly recommend), scales, etc. These additional items add up quickly. I purchased mine because of the volume of pistol rounds I was using.

Which ever way you go, it will be an enjoyable experience.

 

[A. Wayne]

No need to start single stage if you use a Lee Turret and do manual indexing. The benefit here is once dies are set they don't need to be removed and readjusted every time you change to the next step. Caliber changes are very easy as well, with extra turrets.
The press is pretty cheap, comparable or even cheaper than some single stage models.
Clean pistol brass before you de-prime, bits of walnut or whatever you are using will windup stuck in your primer pockets if you de-prime first. Don't worry about getting every speck of fired residue from inside of the case or primer pocket, as long as nothing is stuck inside and the flash hole is open the primer will ignite powder just fine.
I also recommend using a hand priming system such as Lee auto prime, it works well and I can get pretty good production speeds if I care.
Do all of your steps in batches, I keep my stuff in tupperware with dessicant between batches, sometimes for months after de-priming before I get around to priming, as well as after priming sometimes months before charging and seating.

 

[j8064]

There are as many "entry to reloading suggestions" as there are reloaders. That's OK as we're all different. The main thing is to learn reloading safety as you learn the fundamentals. There is zero tolerence for reloading mistakes at the range (Got that? Nada! None! Never!) All reloaders make mistakes - All safe reloaders leave those mistakes on the reloading bench.

I began reloading over 20 years ago. Today I reload over 30 different calibers. I had a great mentor. He taught me the importance of respect required for each and every round I assembled. The rounds you build will go bang. And they have the potential to hurt you, anyone near you and your guns when you pull the trigger. Always remember that.

Beginning with a single stage press and two calibers always made sense to me: a handgun plus a rifle round. Loading a 9mm round is far different than loading a 30-06 round. Loading a rimmed .357 case is different than loading a rimless .223 case. They are fundamentally the same...but they are very different. Expanding one's reloading knowledge, ability and confidence comes with practice. Better (and more expensive) reloading equipment naturally follows.

For beginners, best advice is to read and begin to understand what you don't know before you start. Define and accept your own mechanical ability - i.e. single stage presses are different than progressive presses etc.

Ask many questions - that's how you learn. And above all...do it safely!!

 

[jimbobborg]

I've been reloading since 1989. I've used a single stage press up until last year, when I had to go for more volume. I got a turret press from another member here. Start with the single stage. You get a better feel for the process and you're more likely to see mistakes before you have to pull bullets out of 20+ cartridges because you aren't sure where it started. Once you get the hang of things, get a turret or a progressive press. I got my Lee turret press with a bunch of extras for less than $100. I timed it, 100 complete rounds of .40 S&W took me 45 minutes. I was not trying to set a speed record.

 

[Biggfoot44]

The biggest factor not yet mentioned , is your inclinations twords reloading. If you like to try different combinations of bullets and powders , and work up loads , then single stage is a lot better. Two many adjustments to make and recheck on a progressive. If you have one , or maybe two loads per cal that you load thousands of , then progressive is your ticket.

A turret is a good middle ground. The LEE nonClassic is particularily good bang for the buck , a Redding T7 is the ultimate.

Speed is highly relative and personal , but a turret can get ammo loaded at 3-4 times the rate of single stage with changing dies each step.

 

[pwoolford]

I appreciate all of the feedback. I ordered the Lee Turret press along with everything I should need to get started. I know it will take some time to learn my way around and that is part of the fun. I'm sure I'll be back with plenty of questions as soon as it arrives.

 

[A. Wayne]

I appreciate all of the feedback. I ordered the Lee Turret press along with everything I should need to get started. I know it will take some time to learn my way around and that is part of the fun. I'm sure I'll be back with plenty of questions as soon as it arrives.

I bet you'll like it just fine!

One thing, I'd recommend to run without the Auto-indexing and after you charge 50 or so cases with powder be sure to look in them with a flashlight for uniform powder levels. You can easily notice double charges or squibs BEFORE you seat bullets. If you place one full loading block of empty, primed cases on one side of the press, and put your charged cases in a block on the other side of the press it helps to eliminate charging problems.

 

[lkenefic]

I started reloading for .45ACP on a single stage Pacific Press in the 1980's. I started just reloading a few boxes at a stretch as I was just learning the process as well. This served me well for the small volumes I was shooting but to really get good (at shooting.. specifically 45ACP) I really needed to put many more rounds down-range. This is when i transitioned to a Dillon 550. I knew the procedure for pistol calibers very well at that point and was comfortable in everything going on all at once... note: keep the beers to a minimal level when you're doing this as to avoid calamity! I could reasonably turn out 350 rounds per hour when I had my "game face" on.

As for rifle calibers, case prep is much more involved and I'm actually going back to a single stage press when I start up on .308.