Marlin Trigger Work

[Srbenda]

Before I go buy some fancy-pants Remington 700, or something like that, I want to use my Marlin .22 to see if I'll enjoy target shooting. However, it's quickly evident that my trigger pull is way too heavy to be very accurate.

So--

Is it possible to do trigger work on this gun?

And would it be worth the expense?

Or could I do it myself?

 

[Jaybeez]

If you dont get any advice here, definitely try rimfirecentral.com .

 

[alucard0822]

What model?

 

[Srbenda]

What model?

I believe it's a Marlin 60SS.

Looks like this...

 

[alucard0822]

I believe it's a Marlin 60SS.

Looks like this...

pic came up as a red X, but if you say model 60, I'll go with that. Marlin triggers are somewhat difficult to tune properly, there are few drop in parts made for them, so you mostly have to do the old clipping and bending springs, polishing surfaces, and shimming action parts to get it to work. Definitely not something you want to attempt unless you are relatively farmilliar with that kind of work.

that being said, I have done one where I cut a coil off of the hammer spring, bent the trigger spring to weaken it, polished and lubed the trigger contact surfaces, and soldered a polished aluminum shim on the face of the trigger tab to reduce creep, then drilled and tapped the rear of the trigger guard for a set screw to adjust overtravel. It was kindof a pain to do, but the trigger was awesome when finished.

 

[BenL]

I have a Marlin model 25 from my childhood. I'd love to shoot it more, but it has a 345 lb. trigger pull. Seriously, it sucks.

I found this:

http://www.riflebasix.com/marlin.html

I haven't got one yet, but they get decent reviews.

 

[alucard0822]

I have a Marlin model 25 from my childhood. I'd love to shoot it more, but it has a 345 lb. trigger pull. Seriously, it sucks.

I found this:

http://www.riflebasix.com/marlin.html

I haven't got one yet, but they get decent reviews.

looks like a decent user friendly trigger.

On the Marlin 25(25MN in my case), I bedded the reciever/barrel lug to the stock, drilled the pocket for the trigger screw .025" deeper, added about a .050" shim to the sear spring, polished the sear/striker/trigger surfaces and ground down the trigger notch a little, it got rid of most of the creep, and dropped trigger pull to about 2lbs, gave it to smokey0118 before I figured out how to make a quick detatch trigger stop, but the rifle is a shooter, and he does well with it.

I normally drill and tap the trigger, or trigger guard for a set screw, but being that the trigger has to be pulled all the way back to release the bolt, you would have to remove the trigger stop every time you need to take the bolt out. The best I could come up with was machining a part that screwed into the top rear of the trigger guard, about 1/8" wide from side to side, but as thin as possible at the top, and as thick as need be at the bottom, it would stop the trigger easily when in place, but could pivot to the side and allow the trigger to be pulled all the way back to release the bolt. Never got around to making it.

 

[Srbenda]

Here's a photo that works.

( I think)

 

[guthook]

My Model 60 isn't too bad...a little gritty maybe, but not hateful.

My Model 883ss on the other hand, has a nice trigger...but that is a bolt gun.

 

[Edward78]

Here is A link how to fix the trigger on A model 60

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143780&highlight=trigger