Used revolver check up

[Bullfrog]

I know next to nothing about revolvers as far as maintenance and operation, other than what I've recently read online.

I bought a used GP100 .357 in excellent condition. So far I've checked out the following:

The cylinder gap measures .004, hammer up or down (a .005 will not slip in at all, .004 passes easily with no binding and shows no unevenness in the gap, no daylight shows around the gauge).

There is no perceptible front/back movement of the cylinder. Side to side movement of the cylinder is barely noticeable (a tiny fraction of a mm), hammer up or down.

The cylinder chambers are perfectly centered on the barrel in each position when locked.

The cylinder locks tightly just before the hammer is fully cocked.

The forcing cone shows no signs of cracks or pitting around the circumference (or anywhere else).

No barrel distortion or damage.

Did I miss anything I need to look at, or is does it sound like it's ready for a trip to the range?

Thanks!

 

[Johnconlee]

Sounds good to me, I have a growing revolver collection mostly bought used.

 

[slsc98]

I know next to nothing about revolvers as far as maintenance and operation, …

Here ya go: https://www.shootingillustrated.com...e-guide-to-revolver-disassembly-and-cleaning/

 

[Bullfrog]

Here ya go: https://www.shootingillustrated.com...e-guide-to-revolver-disassembly-and-cleaning/

Thanks... that looks good for a S&W but the Ruger disassembles very differently.

The trigger assembly comes out the bottom in one piece after you loosen the hammer spring and disengage a latch, IIRC. I watched and bookmarked a video on it, just haven't done it with mine yet.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

I know next to nothing about revolvers as far as maintenance and operation, other than what I've recently read online.

I bought a used GP100 .357 in excellent condition. So far I've checked out the following:

The cylinder gap measures .004, hammer up or down (a .005 will not slip in at all, .004 passes easily with no binding and shows no unevenness in the gap, no daylight shows around the gauge).

There is no perceptible front/back movement of the cylinder. Side to side movement of the cylinder is barely noticeable (a tiny fraction of a mm), hammer up or down.

The cylinder chambers are perfectly centered on the barrel in each position when locked.

The cylinder locks tightly just before the hammer is fully cocked.

The forcing cone shows no signs of cracks or pitting around the circumference (or anywhere else).

No barrel distortion or damage.

Did I miss anything I need to look at, or is does it sound like it's ready for a trip to the range?

Thanks!

Missed something. My address is...

 

[Bullfrog]

Missed something. My address is...

Lol, I guess this went over my head.

Are you saying I wrote so much that I hit on everything but my own address, or you're giving me your address so I can send it to you for a range test?

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Lol, I guess this went over my head.

Are you saying ... or you're giving me your address so I can send it to you for a range test?

Yup. I like me some GP 100's

 

[4g64loser]

You are set to go, Sir. All standard inspection checks done. The gp100 is a tank. I have seen some of them survive maltreatment that even my smiths wouldn't take. It pains me to admit that but it's true.

Guy I know has one that Carmony did his stuff on. Still not a smith in my snobby opinion but it is a fine revolver. And all he does is shoot 125s at full magnum power out of it. Almost every week. Again, they are built like tanks. Take it out and bring lots of ammo.

 

[Bullfrog]

Sounds good to me, I have a growing revolver collection mostly bought used.

Thanks, btw. Didn't mean to skip over your comment.

You are set to go, Sir. All standard inspection checks done. The gp100 is a tank. I have seen some of them survive maltreatment that even my smiths wouldn't take. It pains me to admit that but it's true.

Guy I know has one that Carmony did his stuff on. Still not a smith in my snobby opinion but it is a fine revolver. And all he does is shoot 125s at full magnum power out of it. Almost every week. Again, they are built like tanks. Take it out and bring lots of ammo.

Thank you.

 

[python]

Your post makes it sound like you did your inspection AFTER you bought the gun. That was a misstep. Enjoy the revolver.

 

[gorgeman]

push off, empty gun cock hammer and try to push hammer forward, little pressure, this will test the spring just a thought

 

[Bullfrog]

Your post makes it sound like you did your inspection AFTER you bought the gun. That was a misstep.

Before purchase I checked the amount of movement in the cylinder (I didn't know what was 'normal' so I asked to look at a new one for comparison), looked for cracks or pits around the forcing cone, and that the chambers appeared to be lined up with the barrel.

Everything else was after. I didn't have a feeler gauge with me and as I said in the first sentence, I didn't know enough to do the other checks at the time.

Enjoy the revolver.

Thanks.

 

[Bullfrog]

push off, empty gun cock hammer and try to push hammer forward, little pressure, this will test the spring just a thought

I'm not sure what you mean by 'push off', and it seems like this would be testing the sear engagement, not the spring, wouldn't it?

 

[4g64loser]

I'm not sure what you mean by 'push off', and it seems like this would be testing the sear engagement, not the spring, wouldn't it?

Functionally, it tests both. Failure could be a bad or worn sear but more frequently this issue comes with a sear that's just dandy but some turd has cut the spring to "federal primer only" power and it doesn't have enough force to hold against pressure/bumping. This is how guys get wicked bullseye/PPC triggers. I say turd because a respectable seller would have put in a full power spring before sale OR advised the buyer of the modification.

 

[Biggfoot44]

I know next to nothing about revolvers as far as maintenance and operation, other than what I've recently read online.

I bought a used GP100 .357 in excellent condition. So far I've checked out the following:

The cylinder gap measures .004, hammer up or down (a .005 will not slip in at all, .004 passes easily with no binding and shows no unevenness in the gap, no daylight shows around the gauge).

There is no perceptible front/back movement of the cylinder. Side to side movement of the cylinder is barely noticeable (a tiny fraction of a mm), hammer up or down.

The cylinder chambers are perfectly centered on the barrel in each position when locked.

The cylinder locks tightly just before the hammer is fully cocked.

The forcing cone shows no signs of cracks or pitting around the circumference (or anywhere else).

No barrel distortion or damage.

Did I miss anything I need to look at, or is does it sound like it's ready for a trip to the range?

Thanks!

Timing

 

[Bullfrog]

Timing

Is there more to it than what I already mentioned about cyl lock up before hammer is at full cock and chamber properly aligned?

 

[gorgeman]

I'm not sure what you mean by 'push off', and it seems like this would be testing the sear engagement, not the spring, wouldn't it?

if the spring was altered hammer can be pushed forward {light en trigger }

 

[linkstate]

For more than you probably want to know, look for Jerry Kuhnhausen’s books. There is one for Ruger DA revolvers. May be slightly out of date but the fundamentals are still the same.

Shop around as they can be pricey nowadays.

 

[Biggfoot44]

Is there more to it than what I already mentioned about cyl lock up before hammer is at full cock and chamber properly aligned?

Probably good . But for redundency , place light pressure with your thumb against the cylinder , and retest that the the alignment and bolt engagement both DA and SA .

Light pressure on cylinder ensures the drop and lockup is correct mechanically , instead of the cylinder propelling itself by inertia .


************************8

Push off is a function of sear engagement . But overly sight springing can evidence a marginal engagement / sear angle that could have been somewhat masked by a full power spring .


Nobody mentioned yet , but with hammer fully down in simulated firing position , eyeball for proper firing pin protrusion .

Yes , indeed , your gun is ready for a test drive .

 

[Crosseye Dominant]

Proper used revolver check up: