JettaRed
Ultimate Member
I'm looking for a manual that will help you problem solve your reloads, such as FTF, FTE, etc. Thanks.
I am shooting a GLOCK G19 Gen4.
I am shooting a GLOCK G19 Gen4.
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I'm looking for a manual that will help you problem solve your reloads, such as FTF, FTE, etc. Thanks.
For FTF get yourself a "CASE GAGE" or whatever it's called?
It is a precision machined piece of steel that is the correct diameter for the cartridge you are checking. If the cartridge drops in and fits (Not too long, Flush primer) it SHOULD chamber in ANY firearm of that caliber.
For my 40 S&W I bought an UNDER SIZE (- .001") sizing die and that cured all my FTF problems.
A correctly seated primer is not flush sir, A correctly seated primer is a seated a few thousands ' DEEPER ' than flush. You need to seat the anvil and arm the primer.
It is most likely one of the problems the OP is having already.
Flush will NOT prevent chambering of the round, will it?
I took FTF as Failure to FEED, FTE as failure to extract.
The primer should be fully seated in the hole.
If it is not, it will depend on how much energy the firing exerts on the primer.
I agree that the anvil needs to upset to ignite, it will depend on the firing pin energy if a primer that is NOT seated will ignite or not.
It depends on the exact dimensions of the primer and the primer pocket of the cartridge to determine if the fully seated primer will be proud, flush or below flush.
And you would have a rookie reloader continue to try to force a primer into the case after it bottoms out. If it is flush, no energy will pass on to the primer cup to upset the anvil.
Slam fires are extremly rare, to the point of reloading metalic and shotshells for over 30 years and having never seen one with all my flush primers that I shoot.
The ideal seating depth is just below flush. As you gain experience in loading, the feel to accomplish this will become familiar. It is best to use your finger to test every primed shell case. If the primer is above flush it can be run through the seating operation again to push it below flush.
Sorry dude. You are giving out dangerous information. The reloading manuals are consistent and clear. It should not be flush, but slightly below. Cooper is spot on.
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-education/reloading-beginners/primer-seating-depth
Please take the time to read your own post again.
"IF the primer is ABOVE FLUSH"
So that means IF IT IS FLUSH leave it alone. DUDE!
The ideal seating depth is just below flush. As you gain experience in loading, the feel to accomplish this will become familiar. It is best to use your finger to test every primed shell case. If the primer is above flush it can be run through the seating operation again to push it below flush.
As a beginning reloader both of the books Stu mentioned should be in your arsenal. Richard Lees and Lymans Reloading Manuals are long time must haves for everybody that reloads. I a lot cases a FTF with a newbe reloader is going to be a primer that is not seated correctly or a flash hole that has media in it. There is only a few reasons for a FTF. And that's providing there is nothing wrong with the firearm / Primers misshandled,,, ect.ect. ect..
FTE could be as simple as to low of a powder charge, Incorrect charge, Wrong powder.ect..ect..ect.
Read and ask questions... Lots of questions. There is lots of guys here with lots of experience that will be glad to help you.
A correctly seated primer is not flush sir, A correctly seated primer is a seated a few thousands ' DEEPER ' than flush. You need to seat the anvil and arm the primer.
It is most likely one of the problems the OP is having already.
Yeah, my primers that FTF were seated taller than the case (protruded).