Beginner BP revolver advice

[IronEye]

It is as easy as buying a C&B revolver and buying a conversion cylinder. Some minor fitting may be required. That part is easy.

Popping out the empty cylinder, punching out the empties with a pencil, reloading it and replacing it is a little tricksy. Not something i would want to try to do in a big hurry.

There are serious safety restrictions on these cylinders. Steel framed guns only, lead bullets under 850 feet per second (cowboy loads), etc. Also consider that you probably do not want to drop a loaded cylinder.

Youtube has several excellent videos that explain the cylinders and the reloading process.

 

[Pinecone]

No one has mentioned my favorite the Ruger Old Army. No longer manufactured but you can find lightly used ones in excellent shape although not inexpensive. Here is their story:
http://www.rugeroldarmy.com/

video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjWAoXyinAY

A friend in college got one of these.

A hoot to shoot.

Still have to clean after shooting, but more resistant if you wait a bit too long.

 

[Archeryrob]

It is as easy as buying a C&B revolver and buying a conversion cylinder. Some minor fitting may be required. That part is easy.

Popping out the empty cylinder, punching out the empties with a pencil, reloading it and replacing it is a little tricksy. Not something i would want to try to do in a big hurry.

There are serious safety restrictions on these cylinders. Steel framed guns only, lead bullets under 850 feet per second (cowboy loads), etc. Also consider that you probably do not want to drop a loaded cylinder.

Youtube has several excellent videos that explain the cylinders and the reloading process.

What he said, I think I laid out more information than you were ready for. I can pop a conversion cylinder right out. The first time you do it you will think it is awkward and difficult. Like Ironeye said, you're not doing it in a hurry, so don't consider it a re-load during an "oh shit" moment like a standard revolver.

Normally a cylinder will pop in or just need light fitting. BUT, it is not for the average shooter if you are looking for the easy way.

 

[IronEye]

cartridge conversion videos

Here's a couple of videos that provide more info on the conversion cylinders:

Taylor's & Co Cartridge Conversion Cylinders - Duelist1954:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyST_EiJlVs

1858 Remington Cartridge Conversion - Hickok45:
hhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7x6xJADNOiE

 

[kmittleman]

Do these BP revolvers typically shoot to point of aim? I’ve read that some of them shoot really high.

 

[Melnic]

Do these BP revolvers typically shoot to point of aim? I’ve read that some of them shoot really high.

Mine shot low and I had to hold high. Front sight can be filed down. I never did it cause I ended up just shooting steel torso targets and aimed at the neck. When I shot the cartridge conversion, it shot closer to point of aim though. I never spent much time "developing a load" to decide to change anything. I "think" depending on your load and bullet as well as distance it may change some.
I was planning to bring out my cartridge conversion '58 this weekend so I'll report.

 

[echo6mike]

In addition to still being in the market for a revolver (trying to convince myself to buy 3band's), I'm looking at supplies. What are some good sources people use for all the gear you need? Everything from caps to powder and loading tools and... well, whatever everyone recommends?

If supplies are generally available, compared to regular cartridge ammo these days (!!), that's going to be a good thing. Online, brick & mortar stores, I wouldn't know where to look!

 

[rseymorejr]

In addition to still being in the market for a revolver (trying to convince myself to buy 3band's), I'm looking at supplies. What are some good sources people use for all the gear you need? Everything from caps to powder and loading tools and... well, whatever everyone recommends?

If supplies are generally available, compared to regular cartridge ammo these days (!!), that's going to be a good thing. Online, brick & mortar stores, I wouldn't know where to look!

I just last week bought a Pietta Remington 1858 from HNP in Essex. He carries a lot of the supplies; Pyrodex, caps, balls, wads and all sorts of accessories. I did order a set of stainless nipples and a nipple wrench from Track of the Wolf online.

 

[Archeryrob]

Online. Track of the wolf, Midway, Buffalo arms, Midsouth Shooter supply and lots more

The only local BP shop I know of is Fort Chambers in Chambersburg PA. Black powder and caps get local and avoid the hazmat fees. Balls wads and other stuff ships regular shipping.

 

[echo6mike]

PM Threeband right now and buy his Pietta Shooter's Model. That's a very good price.

Okay, done. 8-)

Things you will need include a powder measure, a bottle for filler (I use Cream of Wheat, dispensed from a cheap kitchen ketchup bottle), round balls, and caps. And some lube...there are a bunch of variations, ordinary petroleum jelly, Crisco, and even mixes of beeswax and motor oil. Plus a nipple wrench, old toothbrush, and cleaning rod.

Tips: Your most accurate charge will be in the 15 grain range. Use filler on top, leave about 3/8th inch for the ball. Ram the ball until it just is below the chamber mouth. There's no need to play 800-lb-gorilla with it. Put a dab of lube on top of the bullet to keep the fouling soft.

And right there is the next set of things I was going to ask! (What should go on my shopping list?)

I'm sure there's a good thread about this kind of thing already in the forum, like "which powders are good? What charges? Which caps do I try or avoid?" and so on... I'm searching for it, but if anybody finds it first, please drop a link in here!

e6m

 

[Mike OTDP]

Powders: Use real black powder, the substitutes aren't worth it. 3Fg. For a novice, Goex is perfectly adequate - Swiss and Olde Eynesford are match-grade powders, but you pay a premium for them. If you aren't shooting at a national championship level, regular Goex is fine.

Charges: YMMV, but best accuracy seems to be in the 15 grain range.

Caps: Not really critical for a revolver. My personal preferences are RWS and CCI. Get the normal strength, not the "plus" or "magnum". Those have extra priming compound to set off the wretched substitutes, and have a lot more flash than the normal caps.

Where to buy: Ask experienced BP shooters in your area, they usually have some stuff they can sell you. Once we get past COVID lockdowns, start going to BP shoots. Here in Maryland, we have reasonably good access to the North-South Skirmish Association's matches - and one of the biggest distributors in the country is on the exit road from their range, open every match Sunday. Stock up.

 

[echo6mike]

Powders: Use real black powder, the substitutes aren't worth it. 3Fg. For a novice, Goex is perfectly adequate - Swiss and Olde Eynesford are match-grade powders, but you pay a premium for them. If you aren't shooting at a national championship level, regular Goex is fine.

Charges: YMMV, but best accuracy seems to be in the 15 grain range.

Caps: Not really critical for a revolver. My personal preferences are RWS and CCI. Get the normal strength, not the "plus" or "magnum".

Thanks, Mike! Excellent advice from someone I have heard really does know what he's talking about.

I see the cornmeal vs cream of wheat debate, and there's chat somewhere in here about grease mixes. What's your opinion on patching? What to use, should they be waxed or plain, etc...

Regular caps should be #10, right? And how far does a pound of powder usually go for pistol loadings?

(These questions are for everybody, because there's lots of knowledge floating around this place)

 

[JohnnyE]

Thanks for keeping this thread going. I've been following it for a while.

I have a Colt 1862 Pocket Navy acquired in the early 80's, and it's just sat unfired in the box.

Over the past few weeks I've picked up 1# of Goex 3Fg, 100 #10 CCI caps, and 100 .380 lead balls, plus wads and grease.

When a decent day rolls around a range trip may be in order.

In the meanwhile, please keep the advice coming!

 

[linkstate]

Thanks, Mike! Excellent advice from someone I have heard really does know what he's talking about.

I see the cornmeal vs cream of wheat debate, and there's chat somewhere in here about grease mixes. What's your opinion on patching? What to use, should they be waxed or plain, etc...

Regular caps should be #10, right? And how far does a pound of powder usually go for pistol loadings?

(These questions are for everybody, because there's lots of knowledge floating around this place)

Regular percussion caps don’t say magnum.

The cap # is not the same size across brands.

Typically IME, Remington #10 caps fit best on stock nipples.

Aftermarket nipples generally call for CCI #11s and RWS. I forget the number.

There is some argument about what can cause chain fires. I’m sure Mike knows better than me.

You want good fitting caps to seal the nipple/cylinder. If you watch a still or slow-mo of a cap and ball revolver firing, you will see some fire/flash come back out of the nipple. So sealing the other unfired chambers with well fitting caps is a good idea.

The problem is there isn’t really a standard.

You want a couple good nipple wrenches. The stock ones in at least the Ubertis can be a bear to get out when new.

 

[echo6mike]

Thanks for keeping this thread going. I've been following it for a while.

I have a Colt 1862 Pocket Navy acquired in the early 80's, and it's just sat unfired in the box.

Over the past few weeks I've picked up 1# of Goex 3Fg, 100 #10 CCI caps, and 100 .380 lead balls, plus wads and grease.

When a decent day rolls around a range trip may be in order.

In the meanwhile, please keep the advice coming!

Johnny, what are you using for wads and grease? I see a *lot* of options for those two specifically.

 

[rseymorejr]

Thanks, Mike! Excellent advice from someone I have heard really does know what he's talking about.

I see the cornmeal vs cream of wheat debate, and there's chat somewhere in here about grease mixes. What's your opinion on patching? What to use, should they be waxed or plain, etc...

Regular caps should be #10, right? And how far does a pound of powder usually go for pistol loadings?

(These questions are for everybody, because there's lots of knowledge floating around this place)

I've seen some precut wads that go between the powder and the ball also some precut wax seals, haven't used them yet but they look pretty handy. I think the #11 caps are more commin but they seem a little big for some of the factory nipples. I just orderd a set od stainless nipples and they are supposed to fit the #11 caps better too.
There's 7000 grains of powder in 1 pound so a load of 20 grains would hypothetically last for 350 shots, not accounting for spillage, etc and since you'll be loading by volume and not weight that'll throw things off a bit too

 

[Mike OTDP]

I see the cornmeal vs cream of wheat debate, and there's chat somewhere in here about grease mixes. What's your opinion on patching? What to use, should they be waxed or plain, etc...

Regular caps should be #10, right? And how far does a pound of powder usually go for pistol loadings?

(These questions are for everybody, because there's lots of knowledge floating around this place)

In order:

I prefer Cream of Wheat as a filler, but corn meal works. COW is less compressible.

Any sort of light grease will work over the ball. I personally use Ox-Yoke Wonder Lube, but that's because I have a lot of it. Crisco works. I've seen concoctions of beeswax and motor oil used. Hell, get some petroleum jelly and use that.

For a revolver, NO PATCH. Patches are for single-shot muzzle-loaded firearms.

Caps are normally #11. Your nipple size may vary. Remember that you can give the rim of the cap a squeeze before putting it on to keep it tight.

There are 7,000 grains in a pound. Assuming 20 grains per charge (including spillage and wastage), that works out to 350 shots.

 

[Mike OTDP]

FWIW, once you settle on a load, buy in bulk. I normally buy caps by the thousand...or the 5,000.

 

[JohnnyE]

Johnny, what are you using for wads and grease? I see a *lot* of options for those two specifically.

Hi e6Mike, I've acquired but not yet used some of the Ox-Yoke family of products including wonder wads and wonder seals, and their lube.

Right track/wrong track with these products?

 

[BeoBill]

I have a Navy Arms Pietta Shooter's Model Remington sitting around since the 1980s. I only shot it a couple of times, so it's nearly minty. Does have the line around the cylinder. I nearly forgot I had it until I saw this thread.

This is a special grade revolver, with a gain twist barrel, dovetailed front sight, and a tuned action. I think Dixie still sells this for nearly $1000, but I think they're out of stock.

https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index...135+Pietta+Remington+Army+"Shooters"+Revolver

I found a recent post online of someone asking $575 for one.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/pietta-remington-shooters-model-revolver.125474/

Here's one that just sold for $633.
https://www.gunbroker.com/Item/885227156

If anyone is interested, I think I'd let it go for

Another write up: https://www.n-ssa.net/vbforum/showthread.php/17370-Pietta-Shooters-Model-Revolver

These are a couple of crummy snaps I just took. I can provide better pictures, if anyone wants them. This is a very good looking revolver, with a distinctive German silver trigger guard and backstrap.

That looks like a stock Pietta 1858 to me. No upgraded sights, etc.