You can shoot most any slug through either rifled or smooth bores, although there are some problems with certain types of slugs in rifled or smooth bores. Basically most all slugs fit into 4 categories, foster, brenneke, partition sabots, and cup sabots. At the low end, a foster slug through a smooth bore usually groups into about 8"-12" at best out to 100 yards, while a ballistic tipped sabot through a riled barrel can group into an inch or two. The only problems occur with different chokes used in smooth bore guns. For slugs, an improved cylinder choke is best, it slightly tapers down to help make the most of slugs with exterior rifling, although a cylinder bore can also shoot them well. Tighter chokes crush the slug down more, and deform it, usually giving poor accuracy, and in the case of full, or "extra full" turkey chokes they can impart enough of a restriction that pressures can get dangerously high. There are also rifled choke tubes, they are usuall too short to work with sabots, and often times don't help much with foster and brenneke slugs. They do however have enough rifling to spin shot cups, and can give erratic donut shaped paterns similar to shooting shot shells from a rifled slug barrel.
Foster slugs are the most common, and usually the cheapest. Some are rifled on the exterior, although it doesn't usually impart enough spin on the bullet to gyroscopically stabilize the slug, although a rifled choke or slug barrel can. Thing is, by design they don't need to be, the base is deeply hollow, and this stabilizes them similar to a badminton shuttlecock. Some are hollow point, although the nose cavity cannot be that deep in order to maintain stability, they tend to deform and flatten when they hit, and of course being pretty big to begin with they punch a pretty big hole anyway. They use a cusion wad similar to shot loads that separates soon after the slug leaves the barrel, and can cause damage in it's own right out to about 25 yards as it will take off in a random direction once it leaves the slug.
Brenneke slugs stabilize similarly to foster style, but instead of having a deep hollow base, the plastic, felt or fiber cusion wad stays attatched as they fly to keep them nose forward. For this reason they can be solid to penetrate deeply, or use a more significant hollow nose cavity to expand more than foster slugs. They are usually more expensive than foster slugs, and occasionally the wad can detatch from the slug, and it will tumble in flight as a result if shot from a smooth bore.
Partition sabots came about in response to rifled slug barrels. A sabot is simply a case around the slug usually plastic that is designed to seal the bore, yet separate from the slug after leaving the barrel. They will not stabilize in a smooth bore usually being solid and hour glass shaped to keep the sabot from separating from the slug in the barrel, sometimes with a hollow nose to expand, the plastic sabot consists of 2 halves that are thicker in the middle to match the thinner middle of the slug, and make a cylinder profile when the sabot is clamped together around the slug. This design still used a cushion wad under the slug and sabot in many cases, and terminal performance was kinda erratic being they would yaw if they didn't expand. Accuracy was better than anytihng out of a smooth bore though. They were also a smaller diameter than the barrel because of the sabot being around the slug.
The newest and most advanced slugs use the combination of a cup type sabot where the slug is simply placed in the sabot, and being the sabot covers the base, a separate cushion wad is not needed. They use advanced jacketed or guilding metal expanding bullets, sometimes with polymer ballistic tips similar to modern handgun bullets in design. Like the partition sabot they use a smaller diameter slug than the barrel, but the slug is able to be shaped to be much more aerodynamic, and can be by far the most accurate type of slug rivalling some rifle loads in some cases, and with the most consistent terminal performance due to the advanced bullet designs available. They are also the most expensive, and while they may stabilize out of a smooth bore for a few yards, they are designed for use in rifled bores.
. I got it back home, drilled and tapped the mount for a pair of set screws that lock into a small recess in the flashlight body, and tightened the mount abut as far as I could without breaking it, the mount clicked right back into place on the rail, and held up for 50 rounds of bird shot and a box of slugs without budging, so looks like it is GTG.
Great looking Shotty alucard0822, and good work!
My only suggestion is to replace the light setup for something forend mounted (Surefire). The surefire is a little heavier but not by much.
Currently you have to reacquire the ON/OFF on the light as you pump the action in order to turn the light ON/OFF. You wouldnt want to leave it on constantly, or have trouble manipulating it in stress/low light scenarios.
Overall I give it a 9.5/10
OOPS, I just saw your update on the light. Sorry to hear that.
). I was thinking about using a wire and pressure pad with the Hellfighter, but being it would need a good bit of slack to work with the forend as it reciprocates, or a long wire that would easily tangle to mount on the pistol grip I opted aggainst it, and left it how it is, I slide my hand forward to bump the tailcap switch to toggle it, but have to basically leave it on or off while pumping it. The best thing is that it can attach or detach it simply and quickly enough just in case I need to use the light for something else, especially if I get out to hunt this year with it, and don't want to get fined for "spotlighting" where having a weapon mounted light on a gun in PA is bound to get you.
Thanks for the kind review, I like the surefire forends, but at $300, they are a bit rich for my blood and would have almost doubled what I spent on the build not factoring in the original $300 I spent on the gun itself. Perhaps one day on another build(hopefully an 1100-tac4
And no big deal about the light, glad I caught it and fixed it now instead of when I really need it to work, nothing a couple set screws couldn't solve
Its good work! 
Fixed it. Turns out that recoil from a 12ga combined with the knoxx stock allowing the action to move, ends up increasing the recoil on anything mounted on the action or barrel, flashlights included.
Here are some slugs fired with the night sights only, all ended up on an 8.5X11 sheet of paper at 25 yards. The second video is with the flashlight(got dark enough couldn't see the target, busting clays on the 25yd berm in the dark is fun
![simpsons-haha[1].gif](https://www.mdshooters.com/data/attachments/10/10935-aa4e4ac9f9555bf3b64fa55c63f6fdf0.jpg "simpsons-haha[1].gif")
Are you serious?
