Reloading and casting noob questions

jtb81100 · Sep 4, 2012

So I recently purchased my first center fire handgun (nice little used .357) and as somebody who is used to cheap rim-fire and pellet ammo for regular shooting reloading is looking attractive to let me fire more for less. At this point I'm just doing research online, looking at books to get, and looking at equipment to eventually get.
The first easy question: what books/websites/other media would you recommend?

For casting, is there any reason not to reuse lead from rim-fire or pellet guns? I like shooting both and it feels like a waste to shoot it and not re-use it if it is safe.

Now the interesting one. What equipment/brands/etc should I steer clear of when I pull the trigger and start buying stuff?

BradMacc82 · Sep 4, 2012

Opinions/preferences differ on equipment, so I'm going to bypass that one.

Knowledge is power, so get all the reloading books you can manage, some loads may not be in some books but could be found in another.

Casting - I'm not into casting, so I couldn't say.

There's plenty of more experienced/knowledgeable reloaders than I here, so just keep checking back, they're sure to jump in soon enough.

Threeband · Sep 4, 2012

.38/.357 is perhaps the best caliber to start reloading on. (Not very original, though.)

Get The ABCs of Reloading, and a couple manuals. If you start with only one manual, I recommend Lyman's.

Light target loads in .38/.357 are cheap and very pleasant to shoot.

I like the Lee Turret Press- you can load one at a time in batches, keeping it simple while you learn, but you can also use the turret features to speed things up. Extra turrets allow you to switch dies, go from .38 to .30-06 easily.

I never cast for .38, but I used to cast minie balls for my musket, also round balls. You can reuse lead. I used to pick up bullets/minie balls from the backstop (try to time it for when people aren't shooting) and they were caked with dirt. Once you melt the lead, all the dirt floats to the top, even "very small rocks".

Use aluminum molds- much easier casting than with iron molds. You'll also need a way to lube and size- hmm- better get Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook- but stick to aluminum molds.

edit:

Looks like the Cast Bullet Handbook has been out of print for ages. You don' need no stinkin' book. Here's how you cast bullets:

1) Melt Lead
2) Pour into mold
3) ????
4) Profit!

zmayhem · Sep 4, 2012

+1 on the Lymans and ABC's of reloading, both were the most highly recommended to me.

Like Brad said, equipment is a personal choice and really depends on how many calibers you think you may end up pressing, how much you want to spend, and how many rounds you would like to be able to produce in an hour. If I were trying to do it as cheap as possible but wanted to be able to crank out a good bit of quality ammo, my setup would be something like this:

Lee Pro 1000 progressive press $150-$180 depending on website/coupons
Homemade shell feeder and bullet feeder (link below) $100 total
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9C3ru3FKV0&feature=plcp

You will also need a scale, dies, calipers, powder, bullets, primers and some other miscellaneous items as well which you will learn a lot more about when you start researching and reading some of the books.

GNLaFrance · Sep 4, 2012

Threeband said:
Once you melt the lead, all the dirt floats to the top, even "very small rocks".

And witches?

j8064 · Sep 4, 2012

jtb81100 said:
So I recently purchased my first center fire handgun (nice little used .357) and as somebody who is used to cheap rim-fire and pellet ammo for regular shooting reloading is looking attractive to let me fire more for less. At this point I'm just doing research online, looking at books to get, and looking at equipment to eventually get.
The first easy question: what books/websites/other media would you recommend?

For casting, is there any reason not to reuse lead from rim-fire or pellet guns? I like shooting both and it feels like a waste to shoot it and not re-use it if it is safe.
Now the interesting one. What equipment/brands/etc should I steer clear of when I pull the trigger and start buying stuff?

Most folks find airgun pellets (especially) and 22 pills (somewhat) are too soft when melted and used by themselves. Most air rifle pellets are pretty close to pure lead. Great for casting BP boolits. .22 lead is harder, but mixing them in with wheel weights a little at a time would be better than casting a whole pot of nothing but .22 spent pills.

Threeband · Sep 4, 2012

GNLaFrance said:
And witches?

Yes indeed. That is exactly what I was hinting at.

mike_in_md · Sep 4, 2012

Brianenoes.com and powdervalleyinc.com

tonyw · Sep 4, 2012

Pretty much what everyone else is saying. Except casting, I don't know anything about casting.

read read read, then when you think youre done reading. Read some more. Every time I start reading about reloading I pick up something new, even if its something small. The Lee book is good if youre going to use their powder delivery system(autodisk i think?). Actually its good all around, I used loads out of it for years.

As far as equipment it depends on how much volume you want to do and if youre going to expand calibers you load.

shaakes · Sep 4, 2012

Get the ABC's of reloading as a first book. It is good for the first timer because it lays it out very simply. However, don't look at the pic of the author until you are done reading it.

Threeband · Sep 5, 2012

Did Rosie O'Donnell write it?

She could melt lead by looking at it.

vafish · Sep 5, 2012

I cast with recycled air gun pellets.

I use the lee tumble lube molds and do not size them.

They are very soft and you need to keep the velocity down around 800 fps. Which means they are great for light plinking rounds.

Threeband · Sep 5, 2012

You just need to mix something in to make a harder alloy.

Wheelweights, old type, scraps of titanium...

vafish · Sep 5, 2012

Threeband said:
You just need to mix something in to make a harder alloy.

Wheelweights, old type, scraps of titanium...

I could, but so far they work great in .38 special, .45 acp, 12 ga slugs and muzzle loader bullets.

km04 · Sep 5, 2012

Quick question about the Pro 1000. Lee's website only list the following calibers;
32 S&W Long or 32 H&R Magnum
9mm Luger
380 Auto
38 Special (will load 357 Mag.)
357 Magnum
40 S&W
10mm Auto
41 Magnum
44 Special (will load 44 Mag)
44 Magnum
45 ACP
45 Colt
223

It looks like you buy the setup in whatever caliber you prefer. Are you limited to that caliber once you buy? Can you switch the plates like on a turret press or are you stuck with that one caliber?

GNLaFrance · Sep 5, 2012

It'll take any of those calibers, and probably more. It comes with a set of dies included in the cost and you can buy anything else you like for it.

Lee Pro 1000 Progressive Press Kit 45 ACP

Additional Features:
Comes with the roller handle upgrade
Easily Changed over to other calibers
There are numerous upgrades available for this kit to increase productivity
For reloaders looking to reload more than one caliber this press is easily changed over. All that is needed is an extra turret and the appropriate shell plate carrier (sold separately), some cartridges might require the Lee Auto-Disk Powder Measure Double Disk Kit (Item# 870920)

shaddydan · Sep 5, 2012

Threeband said:
.38/.357 is perhaps the best caliber to start reloading on. (Not very original, though.)

Get The ABCs of Reloading, and a couple manuals. If you start with only one manual, I recommend Lyman's.

Light target loads in .38/.357 are cheap and very pleasant to shoot.

I like the Lee Turret Press- you can load one at a time in batches, keeping it simple while you learn, but you can also use the turret features to speed things up. Extra turrets allow you to switch dies, go from .38 to .30-06 easily.

I never cast for .38, but I used to cast minie balls for my musket, also round balls. You can reuse lead. I used to pick up bullets/minie balls from the backstop (try to time it for when people aren't shooting) and they were caked with dirt. Once you melt the lead, all the dirt floats to the top, even "very small rocks".

Use aluminum molds- much easier casting than with iron molds. You'll also need a way to lube and size- hmm- better get Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook- but stick to aluminum molds.

edit:

Looks like the Cast Bullet Handbook has been out of print for ages. You don' need no stinkin' book. Here's how you cast bullets:

1) Melt Lead
2) Pour into mold
3) ????
4) Profit!

Sounds a bit like the underpants knomes!

Threeband · Sep 6, 2012

topgun1sg · Sep 8, 2012

Stay away from lee progressive loaders, stick with a turret press and remove the indexing lug until you get the hangs of each step.

topgun1sg · Sep 8, 2012

If you decide to go with a progressive set up at first, don't waste your time or money on a lee, pay the extra for a used dillon 650 or better.

Reloading and casting noob questions

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

Ultimate Member

Ultimate Member

The M1 Does My Talking

Active Member

RIP

Garrett Co Hooligan #1

The M1 Does My Talking

Ultimate Member

Active Member

.

The M1 Does My Talking

Active Member

The M1 Does My Talking

Active Member

Get crackin you muggs!!!!

RIP

ADHD chicken fighter

The M1 Does My Talking

Member

Member

Users who are viewing this thread

Log in

Forum statistics