22/45 - Day One Modifications

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  • HT4

    Dum spiro spero.
    Jan 24, 2012
    2,728
    Bethesda
    I just picked up a 22/45 to serve as a host for a Sparrow that I will not see until there is snow on the ground... but sour grapes for the BATFE's glacial approval process aside, it seems that there are some "must make" changes that need to be done. First, the magazine disconnect needs to go. It adds nothing to the safety of the gun, makes dropping magazines difficult and complicates stripping the gun. You need less than $20 worth of parts to make it happen... just a factory MKII hammer and hammer bushing. Removing the old hammer, bushing, magazine disconnect and disconnect spring is a simple as sliding the hammer pin halfway out. The new parts install just as easily.

    I know that some people have gotten a similar result by stacking modified washers of various types and sizes next to the stock MKIII hammer. I was not comfortable with that since the washers, which are not a perfect fit, are so close the hammer/sear engagement point that there is potential for interference. It likely would not be a problem, but I would rather spend the $20 bucks for safety and piece of mind.

    I am also not a fan on the internal lock, especially the one on this gun. It is just a screw that prevents the safety from being disengaged. I don't want to chance the screw loosening under fire and inadvertently locking the gun. Easiest way to deal with that is a little blue thread locker on the locking screw.
     

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    HT4

    Dum spiro spero.
    Jan 24, 2012
    2,728
    Bethesda
    I am also going to call myself out for some world class stupidity in the hopes that no one will repeat my mistake. The 22/45 came with a rail under the barrel. Since I had no plans to use that rail, I took it off and put some little set screws in the holes. When putting the second screw in, I encountered some resistance. Rather than doing what I should have done: backing the screw out and checking the problem, I just kept screwing it in. :sad20: Well, Murphy's Law struck and the screw head broke... so I could not get the screw in or out :mad54: I also do not have a broken screw extractor small enough to work on the screw. Damn.

    So I used the redneck method... drill the center of the screw out with a dremel, then hammer a torx bit into the hole and use that to unscrew the plug. Luckily it worked, but not without some minor marring of my brand new, unfired gun (yes, I was dumb enough not to mask off the area around the hole). So, what should have been a 1 minute job turned into a 45 minute job.

    So a word of warning to home tinkerers/gunsmiths like me... think before you act and patience always when working on your guns. It pays off in the end. :thumbsup:
     

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    krashmania

    Still dont know anything
    Feb 6, 2011
    2,927
    churchville
    When I get around to ordering mine, I'm gonna do that, and rather possibly a vq trigger upgrade. I've heard wonderful things about those
     

    alblsnk

    Member
    Feb 24, 2012
    3
    I also removed the springs from my bolt release and safety so they now move freely and like that a lot.
     

    Clem

    Active Member
    Mar 19, 2007
    100
    Southern MD
    I recently got a new 22/45 with the 5 ½” bull barrel and wood grips. I just made a couple of simple mods to mine: new VQ MK II hammer and sear, MK II hammer bushing, extended mag release, thicker checkered wood grips. Unlike the stainless barrels, the blued barrels seem to be much smoother internally and need a minimum of break-in. Mine shoots great.
     

    krashmania

    Still dont know anything
    Feb 6, 2011
    2,927
    churchville
    I recently got a new 22/45 with the 5 ½” bull barrel and wood grips. I just made a couple of simple mods to mine: new VQ MK II hammer and sear, MK II hammer bushing, extended mag release, thicker checkered wood grips. Unlike the stainless barrels, the blued barrels seem to be much smoother internally and need a minimum of break-in. Mine shoots great.



    yeah, i'm getting the model with the replaceable grips so I can put thicker one's on. If it's the same thickness as a regular 1911, it'll be too small for my hands
     

    HT4

    Dum spiro spero.
    Jan 24, 2012
    2,728
    Bethesda
    I recently got a new 22/45 with the 5 ½” bull barrel and wood grips. I just made a couple of simple mods to mine: new VQ MK II hammer and sear, MK II hammer bushing, extended mag release, thicker checkered wood grips. Unlike the stainless barrels, the blued barrels seem to be much smoother internally and need a minimum of break-in. Mine shoots great.

    Great mods. Why the extended mag release? I thought the stock one was pretty good. Also, how does it look with the SS part on the dark plastic 22/45 frame?

    I was planning to do the trigger job myself... just because I have such a good time working on guns. But every time I feeel my VQ MKII's trigger, I debate whether it's worth the effort. The VQ internals are damn good out of the box (or "out of the zip lock bag" :) ).

    Another mod you should consider is a new extractor. Stock Ruger stamped steel parts are known for rounding off quickly causing FTE's. I have experienced this personally. VQ makes a great one. I have also tried Power Custom and was not impressed. It required far more fitting than I think acceptable in a supposedly "drop in" part. I understand that usually some fitting is needed, but the back end (away from the "hook") of this part was so far off spec that it would not rotate at all in its slot. Worked fine after some filing.
     

    Schwabe

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 20, 2010
    3,936
    Sho'a
    Got the same gun, did the The VQ II accurizing and bushing upgrade. Mag disconnect and slingshot mod. Added a Bushnel TR25. gun shoots great, trigger is crazy sensitive.

    Can use now Mark II and III 22/45 magazines in the gun.

    Enjoy, this is one for the ages.
     

    Clem

    Active Member
    Mar 19, 2007
    100
    Southern MD
    Great mods. Why the extended mag release? I thought the stock one was pretty good. Also, how does it look with the SS part on the dark plastic 22/45 frame?

    I was planning to do the trigger job myself... just because I have such a good time working on guns. But every time I feeel my VQ MKII's trigger, I debate whether it's worth the effort. The VQ internals are damn good out of the box (or "out of the zip lock bag" :) ).

    Another mod you should consider is a new extractor. Stock Ruger stamped steel parts are known for rounding off quickly causing FTE's. I have experienced this personally. VQ makes a great one. I have also tried Power Custom and was not impressed. It required far more fitting than I think acceptable in a supposedly "drop in" part. I understand that usually some fitting is needed, but the back end (away from the "hook") of this part was so far off spec that it would not rotate at all in its slot. Worked fine after some filing.

    I have a couple of MK IIIs that I have modified the mag release. I drilled and tapped the mag release and screwed on a 1911 mag extension button. I put thicker grips on mine and I couldn't reach the standard mag release without rotating my hand on the grip. The 22/45 wasn't quite as bad, but I found a commercial part with the mag extension bolted on. I don't need it as much as on a MK III, but the grips I put on the 22/45 are thicker and it does help to extend it a bit.
     

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