7.62x51 and .308 brass reloading

[lazarus]

So 7.62x51 can be shot out of a .308, but what about the brass? The bit I have heard says unless loading light, do not reuse 7.62 brass for .308. that sound about right? Something about 7.62 cases typically being thicker, thus higher pressures?

I just want to have an idea of how to store spent casings. I've got about 70 casings from .308 and just got a little 7.62x51 to shoot because it was super cheap. I plan to get the supplies to reload in another couple of dozen spent casings and then ask someone the favor of showing me how the heck to reload and let me borrow their stuff before I go in on actually getting the reloading equipment. Will trade beer and thanks for assistance (I am at least a couple of months away from that point mind you)

 

[Pinecone]

7.62 brass is fine for .308 loads. BUT, military 7.62 brass has heavier walls, so a small internal capacity. So a load that is safe in a commercial case, may be over pressure in a military case.

But even the various commercial brass has different case capacities. Lapua brass is lower capacity than Federal or Winchester.

As with any change in components, you should work up the load again to make sure it is safe.

Cases should be sorted by head stamp. Lapau separate from Winchester separate from Remington, etc And FC XX is not the same as FC, FCC, or Federal brass. FC with two digits (year) is military spec brass.

 

[nedsurf]

Some older, typically milsurp. rifles chambered for 7.62X51 (not a SAAMI spec. cartridge) were not designed for the higher pressures of .308 (a SAAMI spec. cartridge). I've heard those are the rifles you do not want to shoot .308 out of. I have no first hand experience with them. Check out reloading manuals for the difference in maximum pressures between the two cartridges. Typically, one can shoot 7.62X51 out of .308 marked rifles. I'm sure there is a counter examples to everything out there.

You can reload for .308 using 7.62X51 cartridges. Yes they are thicker. Thicker=less powder capacity. With everything else being equal, if you load 43 grains into a Commercial .308 cartridge and 43 grains into a 7.62x51 cartridge you will have greater pressure and velocity in the 7.62X51 cartridge. This can be dangerous. The manuals suggest reducing starting loads by a certain percentage and going from there.

It sounds like you are just starting out reloading. It might be a good idea to load your first loads exactly as the manual says to, with all components being just as prescribed in the manual. After getting your feet wet, you can change things up. I can't help you with lending you equipment but you could start very inexpensively with the Lee line of products such as their hand held press or their small loading kit you use a mallet to do the reloading with.

I store my brass in a lead lined, cryogenic freeze and use spectrometry to make sure I am getting no brass molecule loss while they are sitting around to be reloaded again. Thats just me. Alternately, if you don't care about your brass as much, you could use a coffee can.

Good luck and be safe!

 

[GHETTO BLASTER]

The way it was explained to me is, when reloading 7.62x51 for a .308 you knock your charge down 10 percent and work up from there watching for signs of over pressure. This is how I did it and all went well.

 

[tkd4life]

7.62 brass is fine for .308 loads. BUT, military 7.62 brass has heavier walls, so a small internal capacity. So a load that is safe in a commercial case, may be over pressure in a military case.

But even the various commercial brass has different case capacities. Lapua brass is lower capacity than Federal or Winchester.

As with any change in components, you should work up the load again to make sure it is safe.

Cases should be sorted by head stamp. Lapau separate from Winchester separate from Remington, etc And FC XX is not the same as FC, FCC, or Federal brass. FC with two digits (year) is military spec brass.

This. Realistically you should already be doing this if you are anywhere near max loads. Brass, like every other component out there varies between manufacturers. I don't use the same load for 168's as I do my 175's and I don't use the same loads in my Nosler brass as I do my fed brass. Work up your loads based on what components you use and you should be good to go.

 

[Blacksmith101]

So 7.62x51 can be shot out of a .308, but what about the brass? The bit I have heard says unless loading light, do not reuse 7.62 brass for .308. that sound about right? Something about 7.62 cases typically being thicker, thus higher pressures?

I just want to have an idea of how to store spent casings. I've got about 70 casings from .308 and just got a little 7.62x51 to shoot because it was super cheap. I plan to get the supplies to reload in another couple of dozen spent casings and then ask someone the favor of showing me how the heck to reload and let me borrow their stuff before I go in on actually getting the reloading equipment. Will trade beer and thanks for assistance (I am at least a couple of months away from that point mind you)

Get yourself a Classic Lee Loader and a copy of the Lee Reloading Manual and learn by doing the way thousands of others have started reloading. If nothing else buy the manual and read it so you will understand the basics and what to watch out for, like pressure signs, before you even get someone to show you how. It will save a lot of time and may save your gun or your fingers.

Here are plenty of videos about the Lee classic in .308 caliber:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Classic+Lee+loader+.308

Here is the Loader:
https://www.natchezss.com/lcl-308-win.html

Here is the book:
https://www.natchezss.com/lee-modern-reloading-manual-2nd-edition.html

You will also need:
A hammer (a hard plastic mallet works nicely)
A caliper for measuring overall length
Bullets
Large rifle primers
Powder

The Lee Loader comes with a chart that gives which powders to use for the choice of bullet to get the correct load using the powder measuring scoop that is included. So wait until you get the Loader before buying bullets and powder.

By the way the military brass will have crimped primers so you will have to remove the crimp before you insert a new primer.

Once you learn the basics by doing it by hand you will know if you like reloading and weather you want to invest the money in all the other equipment needed for higher production. It does not cost a lot to get started and get your feet wet.

 

[Uncle Duke]

Blacksmith101 hit on this, and it's worth expanding on the thought he mentions.

The cheapest and the best investment you'll ever make in your lifetime going forward with reloading is the comparatively miniscule amount of money you spend initially for the basics of good and reliable information. Think The ABC's of Reloading as a general overview. You'll also need at least 1 reloading manual, which ABC's is not, and the Lee mentioned is indeed an excellent one. Once you've read and started to digest the information these resources contain, you'll not only have some answers, but more importantly you'll also have a much better idea of what questions you never knew or thought to ask. At that point, and with that basis under your belt, it's now time to go shopping.

 

[lazarus]

Huh, I didn't realize sorting by head stamp. Good to know since I've got at least half a dozen! I assume with one head stamp it should all be the same? Example all 147gr FMJ PPU brass should be the same as 150gr SP PPU brass...yes?

I've mostly settled on PPU as at least their 150gr SP shoots pretty accurately out of my Sako .308. It is what I plan to hunt with this year. I haven't shot the FMJ, but it is cheap and I assume as accurate, but I'll find out. If it makes my life easier on reloading later I can stick with just 1-2 manufacturers .308 and reload each separately.

On my first reloading I plan very middle of the road. I was thinking I'd do one set of FMJ and another of something like SST to, hopefully, similar velocities. 50 of each.

 

[Pinecone]

Yes, all PPU brass should be the same. Also all Remington, etc. Federal can be the funny one, as I mentioned. There is Fed commercial, and FCxx mil spec brass. They are different for loading.

With mil surplus brass, if you load close to max, you should sub-group by year. So LC12 is different from LC10. You could measure case capacity, and then groups similar case capacities together.

For mid range loads, all LC is close enough.

 

[Jerry M]

The way it was explained to me is, when reloading 7.62x51 for a .308 you knock your charge down 10 percent and work up from there watching for signs of over pressure. This is how I did it and all went well.

.308 Winchester is loaded hotter than 7.62X51. Sounds like you're saying the opposite.

 

[psycosteve]

The thing you also have to remember is your going to have to ream the primer pocket on the 7.62 for the first time you reload it.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

 

[MG in MD]

I had thought that case capacity was the only accurate way to tell if some cases would need differing loads from others.

Also, the "reduce the load by 10% and work up from there" can be very confusing. 10% of what exactly? It's important to not go below the minimum load, and I think this advise is only important if your going for load at or near max.

I take the max, and reduce by 10% of the differance between min and max. If going for a low or mid range load I just use the published data with no reduction.

 

[Pinecone]

.308 Winchester is loaded hotter than 7.62X51. Sounds like you're saying the opposite.

No, what he is saying is reduce the charge and work up the load.

Which is the proper practice for ANY load, in ANY case.

 

[molonlabe]

I have found the definitive answer to debunk most of the myths on the gun zone. I posted the .5.56 vrs .223 in the other discussion.

http://www.thegunzone.com/30cal.html