Anybody use Infinity Targets?

[Art3]

An ad on fakebook, of all places, turned me on to these:

Self-Healing Rubber Targets | Infinity Targets

Self-Healing Rubber Targets | Self-Healing shooting targets that are reusable for up to 110 Rounds per square inch.

infinitytargets.com

I looked at a couple of youtube videos, and they seemed legit...but I don't trust everything I see on the internet

If they do perform as advertised, this would seem like a fantastic addition to our steel match (which has been dabbling in paper lately) because it could be shot up close (unlike steel) and not eat up pasters or paper targets.

They are a little pricey. It would be a losing proposition if they only lasted a single match (presumably 60-100 rounds). I think I could tolerate replacing them once a year.

Anyone have any experience?

 

[4g64loser]

An ad on fakebook, of all places, turned me on to these:

Self-Healing Rubber Targets | Infinity Targets

Self-Healing Rubber Targets | Self-Healing shooting targets that are reusable for up to 110 Rounds per square inch.

infinitytargets.com

I looked at a couple of youtube videos, and they seemed legit...but I don't trust everything I see on the internet

If they do perform as advertised, this would seem like a fantastic addition to our steel match (which has been dabbling in paper lately) because it could be shot up close (unlike steel) and not eat up pasters or paper targets.

They are a little pricey. It would be a losing proposition if they only lasted a single match (presumably 60-100 rounds). I think I could tolerate replacing them once a year.

Anyone have any experience?

Haven't used them in a high load environment where they will be getting pounded up close, presumably in the A zones mostly. A friend had a couple. The catch with the "quick resets" are that you need to paint it. And the paint usually takes longer to dry than resetting steel or pasting.

I HAVE used coreplast (available from uline and other similar vendors in various size sheets and colors) as both a backer and a target. I cut out IPSCs from them and stencil the A zones with a negative stencil (the a zone is a void in the layover and thus gets painted a different color). Useful for a LOT of rounds. And.cheap. you can even make "repair squares" for when the A zones get trashed and secure them with a couple of drywall screws. For evolutions where you will be moving the targets a lot or where conditions (think wind and or rain) are shit, they beat dry cleaning bags over cardboard.

I still like frang ammo and steel better. I've shot steel (hung properly) at two yards and gotten only minor dusting from it. The catch is that most people don't have it.

 

[Art3]

Haven't used them in a high load environment where they will be getting pounded up close, presumably in the A zones mostly. A friend had a couple. The catch with the "quick resets" are that you need to paint it. And the paint usually takes longer to dry than resetting steel or pasting.

I HAVE used coreplast (available from uline and other similar vendors in various size sheets and colors) as both a backer and a target. I cut out IPSCs from them and stencil the A zones with a negative stencil (the a zone is a void in the layover and thus gets painted a different color). Useful for a LOT of rounds. And.cheap. you can even make "repair squares" for when the A zones get trashed and secure them with a couple of drywall screws. For evolutions where you will be moving the targets a lot or where conditions (think wind and or rain) are shit, they beat dry cleaning bags over cardboard.

I still like frang ammo and steel better. I've shot steel (hung properly) at two yards and gotten only minor dusting from it. The catch is that most people don't have it.

The thing is, my intended use is "for the public," so I can't rely on them to have a specific type of ammo, and I do have to work somewhat within club rules. We really can't get much closer to steel.
I have long contemplated (but never tried) using chunks of rubber stall mat as up close targets. In addition to just never getting around too it, I also have the little lawyer voice in the back of my mind suggesting that there may be liability in the public using homemade targets and it would be safer (from a liability standpoint) to use commercial made targets that were designed from day 1 to be targets. I don't know if that is a legit concern or not...but it's there. I do really need to get off my butt and do some testing with that.

In the paint vs. paster debate. Right now, the club has paint (for the steel) but we use my pasters...so I like the paint idea better . The other advantage I would imagine this has over pasters is that, even if it isn't completely dry, a really close shot shouldn't blow the paint off...like it may with a bunch of pasters.

Thank you for the input.

 

[Art3]

I learned to shoot as a kid basically at garbage in the woods. (cans of expanding foam are freakin' awesome! Just make sure it's the last thing you shoot in that area. If you walk through the debris field to set up another target, you'll track that crap all the way back into the house and Mom will be pissed!).
I grew up a little bit (and some of the woods went away ) and started mostly shooting at real ranges. That meant mostly paper and sometimes steel...definitely more "real" targets. That made me lose some of my creativity, I guess.
Now...I've fallen down a rabbit hole of all sorts of possibilities, and it's almost overwhelming. Apparently stall mat targets are definitely a thing, and I'm going to try to find some scrap around the farm to shoot at.
And I stumbled onto this guy. Turn up your volume. He's weird, but I think I like him.

 

[4g64loser]

The thing is, my intended use is "for the public," so I can't rely on them to have a specific type of ammo, and I do have to work somewhat within club rules. We really can't get much closer to steel.
I have long contemplated (but never tried) using chunks of rubber stall mat as up close targets. In addition to just never getting around too it, I also have the little lawyer voice in the back of my mind suggesting that there may be liability in the public using homemade targets and it would be safer (from a liability standpoint) to use commercial made targets that were designed from day 1 to be targets. I don't know if that is a legit concern or not...but it's there. I do really need to get off my butt and do some testing with that.

In the paint vs. paster debate. Right now, the club has paint (for the steel) but we use my pasters...so I like the paint idea better . The other advantage I would imagine this has over pasters is that, even if it isn't completely dry, a really close shot shouldn't blow the paint off...like it may with a bunch of pasters.

Thank you for the input.

Horse stall mat works fine. Even tougher is conveyor belt from mines or quarries but cutting that shit requires access to a shear or a HUGE mess with a wrecking saw (gas powered type used in scrap yards). Bonus is that the texture holds paint pretty well. The only issue is really piss weak ammo on the conveyor (38 wadcutters or anyone loading to "cowboy power") can be a ricochet hazard with the REALLY thick stuff. Its either fiber or steel reinforced. The horse mats (and anti fatigue mats for people) are completely bullet passive. As long as you use sticks and screws to hang em, no issues. If you hang them from metal frames, you need to use the same consideration as any other downrange steel. It needs to be angled so as not to provide a ricochet surface aimed at the shooter. Use 90 angle channel, set point on to shooter, when you weld it up. Cheap ass chain from the hardware store is easier than cable unless you have cut and crimp tools (use cable if you do). Use pieces of UHMWPE with bolts and fender washers to hold the mat or conveyor material. Spreads out the force and eliminates tearout of hardware.

 

[pleasant1911]

Bought one from Amazon for $20. It seems to work.

I know the shots are everywhere. Lol. 50 yards on iron sights with 22lr pistol. lol. It passed through.

Probably better with better material

 

[jjones88]

Hey Art:

I looked at them super closely for our events up at AGC. Decided to walk due to how to hang them securely for matches. I didn’t like those big clamps as I figured they would be bullseyes during matches.

I found most people recommended to buy horse stall mats and trace IPSC targets and cut those out. Might try one or two next June for the C&R match.

 

[Art3]

Hey Art:

I looked at them super closely for our events up at AGC. Decided to walk due to how to hang them securely for matches. I didn’t like those big clamps as I figured they would be bullseyes during matches.

I found most people recommended to buy horse stall mats and trace IPSC targets and cut those out. Might try one or two next June for the C&R match.

Stall mats are indeed looking like the way to go. I'm going to do some testing. My main concerns are longevity, how well the paint splatters and covers, and how to hang given the weight. I've watched quite a few videos since posting, and it sounds like all of this will work...but I want to see it for myself. Hopefully I'll have some first hand results to report to you before June .

I would be using pistol caliber and .22. Honestly, though, it looks like rifle (with those sleek spitzers) might actually slip through with less damage.

 

[Art3]

Horse stall mat works fine. Even tougher is conveyor belt from mines or quarries but cutting that shit requires access to a shear or a HUGE mess with a wrecking saw (gas powered type used in scrap yards). Bonus is that the texture holds paint pretty well. The only issue is really piss weak ammo on the conveyor (38 wadcutters or anyone loading to "cowboy power") can be a ricochet hazard with the REALLY thick stuff. Its either fiber or steel reinforced. The horse mats (and anti fatigue mats for people) are completely bullet passive. As long as you use sticks and screws to hang em, no issues. If you hang them from metal frames, you need to use the same consideration as any other downrange steel. It needs to be angled so as not to provide a ricochet surface aimed at the shooter. Use 90 angle channel, set point on to shooter, when you weld it up. Cheap ass chain from the hardware store is easier than cable unless you have cut and crimp tools (use cable if you do). Use pieces of UHMWPE with bolts and fender washers to hold the mat or conveyor material. Spreads out the force and eliminates tearout of hardware.

The club does have some conveyor belt that they use. They can be a little weird about how club materials are "shared," so I want to try out my own stall mat first. I definitely can't use metal frames. I would like to use our existing idpa-style paper target frames (metal base with 1x2's). That's what has me concerned about the weight (and the target falling over).
I'll have to do some 'sperimenting.

 

[4g64loser]

The club does have some conveyor belt that they use. They can be a little weird about how club materials are "shared," so I want to try out my own stall mat first. I definitely can't use metal frames. I would like to use our existing idpa-style paper target frames (metal base with 1x2's). That's what has me concerned about the weight (and the target falling over).
I'll have to do some 'sperimenting.

1x2 furring strip is not sufficient. Even for stall mat. The other issue is how loose most of the pockets in the h frames are. The furring strips have excessive lash and will not remain straight with a suspended weight. You will need to run 2x4s. The h frames that support a 2x4 for steel challenge type targets (mgm, red stitch, copper, etc) can be twinned by adding horizontal stringers between a pair but it's easier to make or buy modded h frames that have both a 2x4 and a 1x2 pocket. Then they work for both.

And check their conveyor belt material with a magnet (a very powerful one) or some careful exploratory razor cuts to see if if had metal mesh or braided cable reinforcement. One of my dumber acquaintances was trying to use skid loader and mini ex tracks in his backstop......til I showed him the steel plates and cables inside the rubber. I've had the REALLY heavy duty conveyor belt (like what you find in quarries) spit back low velocity bullets (first time was with an mp5sd). It is not bullet passive. The thinner stuff, as is often used on smaller conveyors used to feed sisters and remove dirt/mixed aggregate from interior excavation, is generally bullet passive. Much thinner, more supple, and less reinforcement.