ar-15 selector switch, no end of troubles

[RDavidP]

I finally got a parts kit for an 80% receiver I had finished well before the Oct. date. The lower parts kit is the Geissele SSA-E LPK from PSA. Buy a Geissele SSA-E trigger, get the rest of the lower parts for free basically. First off, the FCP has been milled out to proper depth of 1.249", checked it with a micrometer, through out the whole bottom. Nice and flat and even. If I mill any more, the bit will punch a hole through the bottom of the receiver.

I first test fitted the trigger and hammer, and it works smoothly. I put my thumb over the hammer to catch it when I pulled the trigger. I took the trigger and hammer out as the selector switch would not go in with those parts already in place. At first the selector switch was real loose even with the dentent and spring installed, so I put a head of a small nail down into the spring hole in the grip, installed the switch, detent, spring, and grip and the selector switch now functions crisply, instead of flopping around. I installed the trigger and hammer, put the selector on safe, and that functions as expected. I flip the selector to fire, pull the trigger, it moves, but not enough to release the hammer. I am banging my head on my workbench. The selector switch hole is drilled in the proper location using a jig. My only though now is that the flat of the selector switch that the end of the trigger assembly goes into in order to fire needs to be taken down a little more. As I mentioned the FCP is milled out to proper depth and I can't mill any more. I did order two part kits from PSA, and tried the selector switch from the other part kit just in case there was some anomaly with one switch and same results.

 

[rdc]

I had an issue with a Stag Ambi safety that was similar. Basically the channel in the selector wasn't wide enough. Couple minutes with a file fixed it.

 

[RDavidP]

I took my dremel with a grinding wheel to the flat of the selector switch and that fixed the problem.

I have since found out that quite a few people have this problem with a standard selector switch and have to file it.

 

[sygata]

I finally got a parts kit for an 80% receiver I had finished well before the Oct. date. The lower parts kit is the Geissele SSA-E LPK from PSA. Buy a Geissele SSA-E trigger, get the rest of the lower parts for free basically. First off, the FCP has been milled out to proper depth of 1.249", checked it with a micrometer, through out the whole bottom. Nice and flat and even. If I mill any more, the bit will punch a hole through the bottom of the receiver.

I first test fitted the trigger and hammer, and it works smoothly. I put my thumb over the hammer to catch it when I pulled the trigger. I took the trigger and hammer out as the selector switch would not go in with those parts already in place. At first the selector switch was real loose even with the dentent and spring installed, so I put a head of a small nail down into the spring hole in the grip, installed the switch, detent, spring, and grip and the selector switch now functions crisply, instead of flopping around. I installed the trigger and hammer, put the selector on safe, and that functions as expected. I flip the selector to fire, pull the trigger, it moves, but not enough to release the hammer. I am banging my head on my workbench. The selector switch hole is drilled in the proper location using a jig. My only though now is that the flat of the selector switch that the end of the trigger assembly goes into in order to fire needs to be taken down a little more. As I mentioned the FCP is milled out to proper depth and I can't mill any more. I did order two part kits from PSA, and tried the selector switch from the other part kit just in case there was some anomaly with one switch and same results.

I actually had exactly the same issue with Geissele SSA-E and DS Arms safety selector I got from PrimaryArms(except it was not flopping around and was pretty crisp OOB). I basically filed off safety selector, until it started functioning perfectly.

 

[clandestine]

Noveske safety on my 9mm AR won't grab the disconnect if the trigger is pulled when it cycles. I had to remove some material from the safety to allow more travel so the disconnect would catch.

 

[precisionfire]

We have seen this problem before. Some safeties are off center in relation to the slot for the safety detent. Since you are in Frederick - you could drive over to our shop in Martinsburg WV and try our safeties in your lower to get one to fit as you like.

 

[dogbone]

I've seen a similar problem on a couple of 80% lowers. Turns out the dimensions the company provided for cutting the trigger slot where off by about an eighth of an inch too short. This was just enough to prevent the trigger from moving far enough to release the hammer. One hour of head scratching and part swapping followed by five minutes of filing took care of the problem.

 

[OnTarget]

I'll ask my question in this thread rather than start a new one:

As to a Bushmaster AR15 M4 .556, a left hander changed the safety selector. I want to convert it back to its original state, but thought I'd use an ambidextrous safety selector. Thinking about an Anderson for about $20.00, inc. shipping. Do I get a two position standard safety selector or a short throw safety (only has to be moved to the 45 or 60 degree position to disengage the safety). Which do you prefer? Thanks!

 

[alucard0822]

I'll ask my question in this thread rather than start a new one:

As to a Bushmaster AR15 M4 .556, a left hander changed the safety selector. I want to convert it back to its original state, but thought I'd use an Ambidextrous safety selector. Thinking about an Anderson for about $20.00, inc. shipping. Do I get a two position selector (some mention different degrees like 60 and 90)? Some ads talk about short throw; do I need to be concerned about this? Lastly, has anybody toyed with getting a different color selector, so that it stands out quickly - like a light grey on a black gun? Thanks!

Kind of a new question and deserving of a new thread, unless it's going into an 80% lower and having issues.

Easy enough to swap in a mil-spec part. I do like Ambi selectors though, flip off with my thumb on the left side, pull it on with my finger on the right side with a shorter lever, wider levers are easier to hit. The shorter throw selectors are quicker to dis-engage, and don't hang down as low, so especially the right side doesn't interfere with your trigger finger. The Anderson is essentially 2 long mil-spec sized levers that rotate 90 degrees, so it is all but guaranteed to hit your trigger finger when firing. I've tried a few, many take some tweaking to work, but the Battle Arms short throw is by far my favorite. Just have to pull the little BS pin out if you don't use it on a rifle with a 45 degree selector diagram on the lower. It operates smoothly, clicks into position positively, so far works without modification on every rifle I've put one on, interchangeable levers and colors, easy to reach without getting in the way. It's pricey at $80, but worth it if you want something ambi, and actually better than mil-spec.

 

[OnTarget]

alucard0822: Thanks for reply. No, I'm not doing an 80% lower, just seemed like a good spot to squeeze in my question. Another note I would make is that I kind of like the idea of using a different color selector (carbine is black), since it is a safety. I've seen selectors in green, FDE, tan and red. The latter one is appealing to me.

 

[woodline]

Howdy,

In addition to the Battle Arms Development safeties--I have BAD-CASS and BAD-ASS versions--I like the AXTS (now Radian) Talon safety selectors.

https://radianweapons.com/catalog/product/view/id/150/category/4/

I haven't had reliability or fit issues with any of them. The BAD-CASS seems to be the most overbuilt and least likely to fail, but I have to admit to preferring the feel of the Radian Talon in 45 degree configuration by a long shot.

 

[OnTarget]

Howdy,

In addition to the Battle Arms Development safeties--I have BAD-CASS and BAD-ASS versions--I like the AXTS (now Radian) Talon safety selectors.

https://radianweapons.com/catalog/product/view/id/150/category/4/

I haven't had reliability or fit issues with any of them. The BAD-CASS seems to be the most overbuilt and least likely to fail, but I have to admit to preferring the feel of the Radian Talon in 45 degree configuration by a long shot.

What size selector do you prefer, for example, long/short; long/long, medium/medium, etc.?

 

[Decoy]

There is a known issue with some of the 80% jigs. The front of the trigger slot may not be allowing the trigger to move forward enough. This would make the rear of the trigger that interfaces with the safety taller than normal. I would check to see if the front of the trigger is touching the front of the trigger slot.

Or

The main trigger pocket may not be deep enough.


Also some 80% lowers have issues with the safety selector detent hole being too shallow. So once the selector hole is cut there may be some material left in the detent hole, this prevents the detent from properly contacting the safety. A 1/8 drill bit should fix the issue.

 

[Melnic]

I've seen a similar problem on a couple of 80% lowers. Turns out the dimensions the company provided for cutting the trigger slot where off by about an eighth of an inch too short. This was just enough to prevent the trigger from moving far enough to release the hammer. One hour of head scratching and part swapping followed by five minutes of filing took care of the problem.

Since he has a Geissele that is a 2 stage, I wonder if that factors in. Since the total amount of movement in the trigger would be more than a stock trigger that the 80% vendor planned for or tested the design against?