Yes I'm using steel pins and they were range pick up.I can’t say what is causing that corrosion but holy cow that’s a long time. 4 hours with a rinse in between?
Are you using steel pins?
Was this once fired brass or brass you collected that had been outside for weeks or months?
I do at most one cycle at 30 minutes to an hour. Rinse thoroughly, separate pins and towel dry and let sit for a few days for the insides to dry. Then pack in those cheap Tupperware containers. Never had corrosion issues like that. I use dawn and a little lemi shine at the same time.
That's what I was thinking. Are these brass safe to fire or should I throw them away? I'm thinking the corrosion possibly weakened the brassInsufficient rinse. And failure to dry the cases.
Roll the cases in a towel after you rinse. Lay em on a tray or other smooth surface in front of a fan or in the breeze
Surface ugliness.That's what I was thinking. Are these brass safe to fire or should I throw them away? I'm thinking the corrosion possibly weakened the brass
That's dezincification - commonly referred to as red rot. You see it a lot in brass musical instruments. Basically what's happening is that the zinc is getting dissolved out of the brass alloy leaving only the copper, and depending on how bad it is, it can really weaken the brass in those places.I once added too much Lemishine and ended up with a bunch of rose gold Grendel cases. There was an obvious pink hue to the brass.
True, and wet tumbled brass gets primer pockets and interiors all shiny too, but I'm not sure that any of that is actually necessary to create good functional reloads.View attachment 423865
But the wet tumbled ones is more shinier.
Not necessary but I no longer have to mess with my primer pockets on my precision rifle reloads. I've noticed definite improvement in my consistency as the amount of crud in my dry tumbler is no longer a variable in my process. I only dry tumble to remove lube if I body size. If I am using my Forster BNBDs I just wipe the die wax off the necks and proceed with no second tumbling.True, and wet tumbled brass gets primer pockets and interiors all shiny too, but I'm not sure that any of that is actually necessary to create good functional reloads.
I do. And my primer pockets. And debur the flash holes. And turn my case necks.Cleaning primer pockets was found to have minuscule effect on accuracy some years ago. If you want better consistency, uniform your primer holes.
I've heard of this but I'm actually experiencing the opposite. It is easier for me to hold batch to batch consistency since wet tumbling.Just sharing my experience in case it helps someone.
I wet tumble my precision brass and was encountering a higher SD than I prefer - which my mark is 10fps SD or less. After going through my processes, I found that wet tumbling too long would peen or create a bur on the case mouth that my resizing die and even sizing mandrel wouldn't totally eliminate. For the effected cases, the fix was to use pin gauge and pay close attention to the inside chamfer of the case mouth. There's a ton of others who have encountered this problem on the net - so I'll spare all the details however I've changed my wet tumbling such that I don't tumble precision brass for anything longer than 30 minutes and I use much more stainless diagonal tumbling media (as in 5-7lbs). Some guys are tweaking the water that they add to the wet tumbler but I've not done that yet.
Again, this only applies to precision reloading. Not your average range load.
Just sharing the lessons I learned. You don't have this issue with dry tumbling in a vibrator.