Brass vs nickel

[o4twinpeaks]

Are nickle cases worth the extra effort and wear and tear on equipment? Over the past years I have had a hard time with the nickle and was looking to see if others have had issues also.

 

[Winterborn]

I've had a few pop up in range brass before. I just load the same as brass, no real difference from what I've seen (very limited though).

 

[BradMacc82]

I haven't had any issue with nickel in .45 ACP so far.

 

[BlackBart]

Loaded a million 38/357 nickle, 0 problems that I didn't occasionally have with brass.

 

[DocAitch]

I have noted that the nickel cases (in 38/357) split before the brass.
Just for S&Gs I recently sorted through a container of damaged brass and found about 8 split ones-all nickel. I am sure that others have split, but they didn't wind up in that particular reject pool.
DocAitch

 

[o4twinpeaks]

Just had a heck of a time with the nickle 50 ae cases. Brass went fine but nickle we had to use the wax lube on and still took much more force than brass. Years ago I bought 200 338 wm nickle cases new and we had alot of issues with burs after trimming. Some the nickel even started to flake on. ended up loading twice then tossing as I didn't want to go though that headache again.

 

[Cowboy T]

They take a little more force on the Pro 1000, more so with the larger calibers like .45 Colt, but not so much as to be obtrusive. They certainly reload and shoot just fine. I do it with .357M on a regular basis.

Are you using carbide resizing dies or the original non-carbide, all-steel ones?

 

[JoeRinMD]

I hate nickel, in .38 Special -- they always split before brass cases. I was given a bunch of cases...mixed brass and nickel. After having another case split in the sizing die, I went through the pain of sorting it all out to separate brass from nickel. I couldn't bring myself to throw them away, but I won't be using them.

Joe

 

[BFMIN]

I have just utterly given up on nickel .357 cases.
I've tried every trick in the book & they still flake & scratch up my steel dies to the point I have to stop & clean the sparklies more than I reload.

I'm going to clean & polish one last time, load up every nickel case I have & then just throw them out both the cases & the resizing die.

Then I'll only ever buy or use brass ever again in a brand new Dillon die.

 

[IndispensableDestiny]

I just resized a couple hundred Hornady .223 Rem cases. About 30 were nickel. About 10 of that 30 got dents starting at the shoulder. None of the brass cases did that. I was using mica on the necks, Frankford spray lube on the body. I'm not too impressed with that lube. Sticky, even when "dry".

 

[o4twinpeaks]

I just resized a couple hundred Hornady .223 Rem cases. About 30 were nickel. About 10 of that 30 got dents starting at the shoulder. None of the brass cases did that. I was using mica on the necks, Frankford spray lube on the body. I'm not too impressed with that lube. Sticky, even when "dry".

Had that issue on 338 win mag and we thought it was caused by me using too much lube.

 

[Kinbote]

Nickel-plated is more brittle than regular brass, so they tend to split a little more often. I use carbide dies so I've never really noticed any difference in pistol calibers; I mix them right in with the brass.

 

[BradMacc82]

I use carbide dies so I've never really noticed any difference in pistol calibers; I mix them right in with the brass.

Same here, carbide dies and Lee equipment - haven't had an issue (yet).

 

[browning guy]

Same here, carbide dies and Lee equipment - haven't had an issue (yet).

x2

 

[Pale Ryder]

I have noted that the nickel cases (in 38/357) split before the brass.

Don't reload now, but that was my observation too.

 

[Kimerazor]

Nickel-plated is more brittle than regular brass, so they tend to split a little more often. I use carbide dies so I've never really noticed any difference in pistol calibers; I mix them right in with the brass.

I had 8 out of 100 Federal Nickel-plated (LE 'brass') split after only the first reload. Bummer.

 

[mdvctry]

I just resized a couple hundred Hornady .223 Rem cases. About 30 were nickel. About 10 of that 30 got dents starting at the shoulder. None of the brass cases did that. I was using mica on the necks, Frankford spray lube on the body. I'm not too impressed with that lube. Sticky, even when "dry".

Not trying to hijack the topic, Just wanted to mention try Dillon's lube for rifle and Hornady one shot for pistol. Or just use Dillon's for both if you have it.

 

[BFMIN]

Not trying to hijack the topic, Just wanted to mention try Dillon's lube for rifle and Hornady one shot for pistol. Or just use Dillon's for both if you have it.

Please be aware there are 2 distinct & very different "Hornady one shot" lubes, the eco-friendly pump spray type & the aerosol type.

Not only is the dispenser different the lube inside is as well. I had the eco-green & it caused a massive jam with my .308 brass rifle brass. It was so bad even Hornady couldn't fix the problem & had to replace the die. When I discussed the problem with the tech at Hornady he immediately had me return the eco-green type as well as he admitted that was the cause of the problem. Hoprnady replaced it with the aerosol type in the red can & that works perfectly.

 

[WheelHead]

Most of my 500S&W brass is nickel. I got alot of it from people I know who shoot and don't reload for the 500 which is just dumb...but hey it works out for me. Cases have always worked good for me.

 

[Hippy]

I have used it for pistol cartridges and it is OK BUT the rifle calibers will sometime pick up "Junk" and can scratch the dies as MOST are not carbide.

Jim